Petzl ASAP Dynamic Testing - 80kg Load - Factor 2 Falls

Warning! Climbing is dangerous and rope solo climbing even more!!! As you can see, you can cut a rope if using the Petzl ASAP well outside it's intended use!!! My current recommendation is: do not use the Petzl ASAP for anything outside its intended use. More testing needed.

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[Polemicist_]

Um, it literally says all over Petzl's website and in the user manual that you need to use 10-13mm static rope. Preferably their own 11mm Ray rope. If you run a significantly smaller rope that stores _way_ more potential energy when it expands (so it snaps very violently when it turns kinetic) and it stretches so thin under load that the clamping mechanism can't grip properly without potentially slicing up the rope....like, what were people expecting?

Good testing, but you definitely should have stated what kind of rope this device was designed for, why this rope is used, what rope these climbers use, and then explain why mismatching ropes this device is a terrible idea.

[Midnight_Lightning]

Por eso el asap en trabajos en altura se usa con una cinta disipadora, gracias por el video❤

[beauhill]

love your stuff mate, i hope you get all the backing you deserve. keep it up.

[coach-respiration]

Good job. Simply this device is not for dynamic rope ...

[novadea]

Thank you for the tests. I'm also in the camp of people highly interested in seeing this being tested as part of a GriGri + Micro Trax etc. systems, especially to see if it'd allow to have longer cache loop but still catch quickly by the ASAP locking and engaging the GriGri before the cache loop gets short and provides enough tension. FF 2 falls are important to keep in mind but should happen very rarely, and as a back up device it shouldn't realistically ever see the full force of the fall (your primary devices catastrophic failure eg. carabiner getting cross loaded and breaking, will most likely absorb a large part of the fall energy). As you say more testing is needed, but I think it could provide a valuable addition to the GriGri + Micro Trax setup if done correctly.

E: Got my hands on one and it has too much resistance to work the way I was thinking it might, but while messing around I did find an interesting addition of using a Fixe Pulley to redirect the cache loop coming out from the GriGri. Based on initial testing seems to feed out/take in slack as easy as any other setup, but also lock up instantly despite the cache loop length if yanked or pulled just a bit faster than what you'd normally pull out rope (eg. just sit down fast and it'll lock up, where as without the redirect it'd just feed out the whole cache loop).

[sebastianflynn]

I'd like to see what kind of l Ioad sharing would happen with a grigri using this system.
The asap in a lrs isn't really being used as a strict backup but instead as a third hand so probably only actually sees a couple of kg worth of force in the event of a fall with the grigri seeing the brunt of it. In a high fall factor fall where the grigri doesn't engage with out the asap first engaging you would still see load sharing between the two devices.

[EdeSchmitt]

Thanks a lot for the testing + Video!!
Obviously, the ASAP was designed for fall on a static rope, not LRS, BUT: Could you reduce the force by using a screamer like the asapsorber und connect the ASAP to full-strength tie-in point with the screamer?
Also, a slightly thicker rope, say 9.8mm might stand the teeth?

In any case, as i conclude from your testing, the ASAP should well serve as a third hand, in case the mein Device (Grigri) would slip, while it could only be a full backup as long as you can be 100% sure, there won´t be a factor 2 fall. Makes sense?

[TheRopeAccessChannel]

I am not surprised that this happens. It was never designed for this. This is the same as falling on any other toothed device.
Toprope soloing maybe but only on 11MM rope (semi static) according to petzl. Just dont have any slack above the device. If people are really doing this on lead rope solo or any other spot where you have a potential fall with slack above the asap, than it is a good thing you are showing these tests. Hope they see it too. There are way better methods of doing this. The asap being used like this is so far out of its intended use it is not even funny RTFM ;-)
Great test Yann, I hope you reach the right people with this

[namelastname]

And I was thinking of one last two weeks. But Yann, a FF2 is a bit difficult in LRS if you don’t multi pitch. So perhaps there is a caveat to be made what do you think? As promised, I’m getting a sub to your course.

[gersondelarosacespedes]

Factor 2 Fall in tope acces not 𝐈𝐒 legal. And 9.8 rope with asap? No no no. Sorry my english is very Bad but It is a clear example of how to violate the rules and their serious consequences

[vladislavegorkin]

What is not proper set up for a test. Check owners manual.

[Lascts]

Per petzl this is rated for 10-13 mil. Whats the point of this

[denwiessimo]

You don't come across as very straightforward to me.