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Evaluating a 70's Martin 14-fret D for purchase
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Evaluating a 70's Martin D:
Different from the other video because that was me talking about what I think from a repairman's point of view. This one is for YOU, as a person looking at a Martin D.
1) check the bridge location!!!! (01:23)
⦁ measuring is best because played notes will vary according to action
⦁ 12 7/8" to low E, 12 6/8" to high e from middle of 12th fret.
⦁ After THAT, you can look at other stuff.
⦁ if the bridge location is off, we have to deal with it. We'll see the options for that later.
2) Check the action (08:23)
⦁ 12th fret. Measure it.
⦁ If it's good, great... but there still might be trouble in paradise.
⦁ If it's high.... then you probably need a neck reset.
3) check the neck relief (13:14)
⦁ will affect action
⦁ high relief will prevent low action
⦁ Ways to deal with high relief- compression frets, shaping board
4) check the nut (23:05)
⦁ check the action
⦁ check the nut material
⦁ check the spacing
5) Check the frets (29:20)
⦁ nice crowns- no flat tops
⦁ check the height... too low is not good, BUT if there are neck relief issues, then you won't be pulling good frets to fix that. .030" is the min. .040" is good.
6) everything else (34:45)
⦁ pickguard condition, and surrounding cracks
⦁ bridge height
⦁ body/top cracks
⦁ bridgeplate condition, although on a 70's I'm likely replacing it.
Summary of this guitar (47:36)
----------------------------
Dealing with the bridge location: (51:00)
Four options:
1) scoot the bridge
⦁ best option because it puts the bridge in the correct position on X
⦁ scar to clean up
2) scoot the neck
⦁ shim the neck back
⦁ no scar, no damage, maybe a little at end of fingerboard
3) scoot the fingerboard
⦁ new shorter f/board- lots of work/$$$$
⦁ ebony spacer in front of nut (never used this)
4) oversized bridge or scoot just the saddle
⦁ oversized bridge hurts tone, looks ugly, causes finish damage
⦁ saddle is okay, but it affects the hinge point on the bridge, looks ugly.
Different from the other video because that was me talking about what I think from a repairman's point of view. This one is for YOU, as a person looking at a Martin D.
1) check the bridge location!!!! (01:23)
⦁ measuring is best because played notes will vary according to action
⦁ 12 7/8" to low E, 12 6/8" to high e from middle of 12th fret.
⦁ After THAT, you can look at other stuff.
⦁ if the bridge location is off, we have to deal with it. We'll see the options for that later.
2) Check the action (08:23)
⦁ 12th fret. Measure it.
⦁ If it's good, great... but there still might be trouble in paradise.
⦁ If it's high.... then you probably need a neck reset.
3) check the neck relief (13:14)
⦁ will affect action
⦁ high relief will prevent low action
⦁ Ways to deal with high relief- compression frets, shaping board
4) check the nut (23:05)
⦁ check the action
⦁ check the nut material
⦁ check the spacing
5) Check the frets (29:20)
⦁ nice crowns- no flat tops
⦁ check the height... too low is not good, BUT if there are neck relief issues, then you won't be pulling good frets to fix that. .030" is the min. .040" is good.
6) everything else (34:45)
⦁ pickguard condition, and surrounding cracks
⦁ bridge height
⦁ body/top cracks
⦁ bridgeplate condition, although on a 70's I'm likely replacing it.
Summary of this guitar (47:36)
----------------------------
Dealing with the bridge location: (51:00)
Four options:
1) scoot the bridge
⦁ best option because it puts the bridge in the correct position on X
⦁ scar to clean up
2) scoot the neck
⦁ shim the neck back
⦁ no scar, no damage, maybe a little at end of fingerboard
3) scoot the fingerboard
⦁ new shorter f/board- lots of work/$$$$
⦁ ebony spacer in front of nut (never used this)
4) oversized bridge or scoot just the saddle
⦁ oversized bridge hurts tone, looks ugly, causes finish damage
⦁ saddle is okay, but it affects the hinge point on the bridge, looks ugly.
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