Evaluating a 70's Martin 14-fret D for purchase

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Evaluating a 70's Martin D:

Different from the other video because that was me talking about what I think from a repairman's point of view. This one is for YOU, as a person looking at a Martin D.

1) check the bridge location!!!! (01:23)
⦁ measuring is best because played notes will vary according to action
⦁ 12 7/8" to low E, 12 6/8" to high e from middle of 12th fret.
⦁ After THAT, you can look at other stuff.
⦁ if the bridge location is off, we have to deal with it. We'll see the options for that later.

2) Check the action (08:23)
⦁ 12th fret. Measure it.
⦁ If it's good, great... but there still might be trouble in paradise.
⦁ If it's high.... then you probably need a neck reset.

3) check the neck relief (13:14)
⦁ will affect action
⦁ high relief will prevent low action
⦁ Ways to deal with high relief- compression frets, shaping board

4) check the nut (23:05)
⦁ check the action
⦁ check the nut material
⦁ check the spacing

5) Check the frets (29:20)
⦁ nice crowns- no flat tops
⦁ check the height... too low is not good, BUT if there are neck relief issues, then you won't be pulling good frets to fix that. .030" is the min. .040" is good.

6) everything else (34:45)
⦁ pickguard condition, and surrounding cracks
⦁ bridge height
⦁ body/top cracks
⦁ bridgeplate condition, although on a 70's I'm likely replacing it.

Summary of this guitar (47:36)
----------------------------
Dealing with the bridge location: (51:00)
Four options:
1) scoot the bridge
⦁ best option because it puts the bridge in the correct position on X
⦁ scar to clean up
2) scoot the neck
⦁ shim the neck back
⦁ no scar, no damage, maybe a little at end of fingerboard
3) scoot the fingerboard
⦁ new shorter f/board- lots of work/$$$$
⦁ ebony spacer in front of nut (never used this)
4) oversized bridge or scoot just the saddle
⦁ oversized bridge hurts tone, looks ugly, causes finish damage
⦁ saddle is okay, but it affects the hinge point on the bridge, looks ugly.
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i love to see the pride you take in your work. such a rare thing today. great videos. much appreciated!

Petes-cq
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Wow, Mr. Kimsey! Just wow! Thank you for this VERY valuable video. Lots of regards, RLB 🙏🏻

RedLittleBee
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you know you are good when you can get a lot of people watching your video that is over an hour long. Bravo!

thepokerpilotapp
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I’m loving the longer videos Bryan. An informative interesting video like this with my morning coffee is my favorite way to start my day before work.

tylerrose
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Great video, very informative. Love all of your videos, have been a martin owner and player since 73, first one was D-35. Wish i still had had it.

laurencewirtz
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Excellent information...thx again Bryan.

jimkif
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Your knowledge is amazing sir. Excellent video.

tomscotland
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This guy seems to know what hes talking about...id love to be aboe to take my guitars to this guy and have him chrck them over and tell me what im doing wrong...

jaysonburns
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Thanks for the great videos Bryan, very informative. I'm looking for a early 70's D-18 to send to you to convert to lefty and this is a great help in my search...

brianbrophy
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great video bryan, i have a 72 d 18 . i've always wondered about the bridge placement. had a neck reset 5 yrs ago. i just measured and was pleased to find it's right on the money. i got lucky. i'm the original owner and love the guitar. thanks for the info

markv.
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recently got a old yamaha and noticed the bottom of bridge after saddle was removed that the depth on treble was almost half of what it is in bass side, didnt route it out maybe later on just adjusted the saddle to where i like it but strange that it was lower in saddle slot on bass side, same as the nut bass side was lower im thinking it was a accident but replaced plactic with bone including pins has alot better mid and bass range now

joemcgraw
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I’d like to have new neck with truss rod in my 77, and carbon fiber bridge plate. It’s historically significant to me.

jameslifetimelearner
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Bryan- Maybe I’ll wait til afternoon when I’m more awake to comment. I am picking up some good tips, though.

johngeddes
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Martin makes an oversized replacement bridge to correct their intonation goof.I had my 77 repaired w/ neck reset, refret, pin holes plugged and redrilled.Guitar is revoiced for the better. Plays good too.

jameslifetimelearner
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How do you know it needs a neck reset to correct the action, vs. lowering the saddle? I did not hear you address that. Thanks for the video, it was very informative.

billmoates
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Enjoying watching this. Where did you learn all this?

marcusvaldes
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Hey Bryan! Love your videos! Just thinking out side the box on the fifth option, have you ever considered buying a larger bone blank for the nut and cutting it in a L shape in order for it to slightly rest over on to the finger board? Don’t know if this would work but seems possible! Any knowledge about it would be appreciated thanks so much an keep up the videos !

GCSS
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Great as always. Any chance of getting a cost of what all those repairs would be?

eddiemurphy
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Good video. One question is after shimming a neck block instead of the other options, what happens if the neck needed to come off for any number of reasons? For a heating rod or steam nozzle, could you still pull the 15th fret and angle the drill to get between the neck and body? Or, would you drill 1/8” south of the 15th fret and drill straight between neck and body? I guess either way, its easy to hide, but a repair tech would need to be on his or her toes, not just going by work habits when attempting to remove the neck.

johngeddes
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My D28 was 3/16” out, I will never give Martin any more of my money. Martin denied there was a problem but paid to have it fixed, it was rubbish after.

barrieglenn