James Hardie Siding Details! How To Install It By Yourself! DIY

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You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!

jameslacey
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My husband replaced our old siding with hardie plank boards. Absolutely love it.

JW-cmzs
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Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.

michaeldvorak
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This video deserves more views, nciely explained in such an easy to undertand manner for even newbies like me.

alizainulabedin
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Wife and i installed that stuff on our house about ten years ago we love it holds paint great and have had zero problems with it so much better than plastic or aluminum siding and about the same cost.

tomcampbell
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Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.

DawiAreg-gowr
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One day we two will have a Homestead until then bless you guys and we wish you the best of luck and everything that you’re doing for taking the time to make a video

Anontesla
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I would like to see how to cut and go around the block-out. Thanks for the video.

GarySherrill
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Thanks bud, i start a wjole house tomorrow, now im confident im doint it right👍

chuy
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Before this video I don't have idea how to replace a bottom portion of my harding, but now I do thanks if is posible to show a video how replace just the bottom part I really appreciate it.
Thanks a lot for you help.

angeltravieso
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Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.

RossWilliamsDC
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Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.

kathyglass
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You are a very good explainer! calm and to the point - well done - God bless !

pomrosellc
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Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.

danljames
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i caulked the trim board ends first so it’s sealed as the hardy board is installed and it fills the gap nicely. i’m not a pro. it just made sense to me.

harrydoherty
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Excellent video! Thank you! Most videos right now are incomplete, or a someone pointing at stuff from their phone. Great production value!

KamotzII
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I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.

christopherdekonstrukt
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Great instructional video. Thank you.

jimmyq
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Decent job and install tips but needs a few tweaks. Metal flashing at butt joints is expensive and requires more prep. Metal will corrode with direct contact with a cement based product, have to paint back of boards that come in contact with the flashing to prevent that from happening. A far cheaper alternative is roofing felt, either 15 or 30# is a better way to go. But if you have tyvek wrap left over that is the absolute perfect choice, it's paper thin, breathable if water somehow manages to get in (hurricane driven rain)so it can evaporate, and it's already paid for and on site. Cut a bunch of pieces and you're good to go. Framing nailer is a bad idea, teeth on the end that hold onto wood mar and or crack the siding very easily. High wind areas required double nailing so will see nails and finish on lower edge of the boards. Don't want teeth marks on your finished siding.Plus the diameter of framing nails is way too large for this siding. Siding gun or hand nail with. 092 or close to it in diameter is highly recommended. I also highly recommend stainless ring shank in high humidity area like Florida where I live. Pricey but a guarantee that will last as long as the siding. And lastly gecko gauges are worth their weight in gold, amazing product and adjustable in 1/4" incrimates for various widths of siding. Picked up a set online for $60, wish I knew them years ago as you don't need to pay a helper to hold the other side of the board, can be done with one person and the magical tools.

scottd
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You should have shown us how you worked around that electrical block.

jsand