Why We Love This Pencil｜Mitsubishi Uni MH-500

The MOST frequently asked question on Doki Doki Drawing! "WHAT IS THAT PENCIL?" Today NihongoGamer gives us a quick close-up on this mechanical pencil and what makes it different to other options. Drawing comparison coming in a future episode!

What other art drawing tools would you like to see us have a look at? Tell us in the comments!

Amazon Affiliate Shop Links!

★Software used [Clip Studio Pro]

★Tablet used [iPad Pro]

★A bit more affordable version[WACOM One]

★Used by a different Manga Pro[Huion Canvas Pro]

Produced by WAO Agency

液晶タブレット　山口しずか使用

[DrawingTechnical]

It's a clutch pencil, because of how it grips the lead. These pencils are used in mechanical engineer drawings or architectural drafting for exactly the reasons you've shown; they're strong and remain sharp for long. I have 2H leads which are quite strong and the recommended lead hardness for drafting. There's some leads which are so strong that when sharpened, they will cut the paper like a scalpel.

[sunshinesolace]

I found one of these pencils just lying on the beach lol.

[hukes]

When I was studying engineering I used to glue sandpaper to the heel of my shoe just to sharpen lead.

[Siphuncularity]

Excellent & informative video.

The *H* to *B* standard refers to the proportions of *Graphite* to other structural agents in the composite "lead".

*HB* is the most common lead pencil in use worldwide, simply because it has a fairly even balance of both components.

*H, H2, H3, H4, * etc. contain significantly less *Graphite*, making them both harder & fainter.

*B1, B2, B3, B4, * etc. have increasing proportions of *Graphite*, making them both darker & softer.

*H* grades are used predominantly in technical & printing drawing - where a precise line is extremely important, whilst *B* grades are used mostly in classical drawing - where nuances in tone are most valued.

Note that as they are much harder than the equivalent *B* grades, higher *H* grades tend to cut deeper into the paper (even punching through if you're not careful), meaning that you understandably need to use significantly less pressure when drawing (though this will exacerbate their faintness), whereas the softer *B* grades have a greater tendency to smear & blur edges. Also high *B* grades will break points at at the slightest pressure, making them more useful at shallower angles to the paper (& excruciatingly more frustrating to sharpen - especially the standard wood type).

I commonly use three different mechanical pencils with *2mm* leads: a *2H*, a *HB* & a *2B.* My purpose is to sketch out ideas that I'll scan/photo into my computer & use to develop *_Vector Line Art_* as the underlying structure of a *_Digital Artwork._*

In the past, I would have used *2B* - *8B* grades to create artwork sketches (usually in collaboration with various *Charcoals* & *Comte* crayons), though these days, I'd probably use straight *Graphites* without wood (lacking wood contaminants means that all sharpening dusts can be stored for other uses. Most likely to be mixed with oil, water or natural resins for application with a brush for effects.)

[JayAndNightASMR]

I love mechanical pencils, I always got told off in art class for using them even though I'd be making better lines than everyone else. They've better in every way but snobs want everything done with regular ones

[guitarchitectural]

I'm an architect and used one of these in architecture school. I used Staedtler clutch lead holder and they have a small sharpener built into the end cap. They also sell a great little rotating grinder-sharpener that gives you great graphite powder for shading with (but its only for desk use, it comes apart easily in a pencil case).

When drafting you actually roll the pencil as you "pull" the line along the ruler and it keeps your tip sharp for a long time! I always kept fine (800+) sandpaper on my desk for touching up and forming the tip between sharpenings.

The biggest danger with them is if you drop them, it typically shatters the lead!

[JustSomeGuy]

I like using 2mm lead holders, but I find I still need to sharpen it a lot. I use it to do finished line art, and I'm guessing the 4B lead is so soft that it won't keep a point. I tried 2B though, and had the same issue. I haven't tried it with F or 2H lead yet.

[xcforlife]

Lol, this is the first time I've heard someone just casually refer to a Blackwing as "just a standard pencil".

[aceion]

So you inherited a Japanese animator mechanical pencil, as someone who is trying to become an animator and an animation nerd I'm so

[lippa]

You're an artist and you have a favorite product brand - as an artist and writer myself I 110% understand that. You love the Mitsubishi, personally, I love the Staedtler. It's very comfortable, perfectly weighted, and has a built in sharpener.

[falcon]

Whereas the tool doesn't make you a better artist, a good tool can make the work easier and help you work longer. I have bought nearly a hundred different 2mm mechanical pencils. I also searched the best lead. I finally came across the unassuming Caran D'ache Swiss made 2mm and 3mm mechanical pencil. The weight is perfect for me. The ergonomics looks so simplistic but it so effective. They have builtin sharpeners. The lead is extremely smooth across the paper and creating shade is easy and effective.

[tinlidtoo]

Very handy having the lead hardness on the outside. I've bought different brands of mechanical pencils to differentiate between the lead types I use. HB 2B and 4b

[janawatercolor]

Nice.I am a watercolor artist and use mechanical pencils to draw before painting. This looks like a good option for me. Will give it a try

[mrlion]

I bought a mechanical pencil that looks and works just like a wooden lead pencil..it is made of plastic the leads are same as a wooden pencil . But inplace of the eraser it has a tiny lead sharpener. Which is so cool .. it was for less than a dollar. 0.77

[E-M-T]

I've been using a Staedtler one for about 3 years now and I love it, I've always used regular wooden pencils my whole life just because of preference, mainly the thickness of the lead so when I saw they made 2mm lead holders like this I decided to try it, I went with the HB hardness for that reason at the time just to mimic how a regular #2 pencil felt, I never really considered the other options. Im def gonna pick this up with the firm lead and see how I like it, been a while since I've been excited over a pencil haha.

Also the HB (at least in the Staedtler) is about as prone to snapping when over sharpened as a regular pencil as he demonstrated in the video so that is certainly something to think about when choosing lead firmness.

[XacurRPG]

I love those led holders. Staedtler make those too, but they don't have the F hardness led. The holders are all the same for any hardness, some have a ring that have all the hardness levels and a pointer, so you turn the ring to mark what hardness you are using.
Also, when you buy the replacement pack, the box comes with a pencil top of one specific color, so you can use that top in any pencil to color code it. I think that is better than buying pencils that already have a hardness written on them.
Definitely you can use your leds so carefree because it's an F, but you should be more careful with a 4b, those could break when you are sharpening if you are not careful. But they are still great.
Led holders are expensive at first but after a few months of using them, you find it's worth it. Since most of the wood drawing pencils are wasted while sharpening, specially if you want a long point, the replacements of the mechanical pencils last way way more.
I've found more convenient to sharp the mechanical pencils with a very fine sandpaper, instead of a led sharpener. You have more control on how sharp you want your point, you can even sharp just one side of it, or dull the point if it's too sharp, etc.

[JC-ypvd]

You can sharpen both ends differently, one for fine lines, the other for shading.

[Braindazzled]

These are generally called 'clutch pencils' or 'lead holders.' There were common in graphic arts before the mechanical pencils that use skinny lead (.5, .7, etc.) came to the market, around the 1980s. You can still sometimes find 3mm versions that were more common in the 1950s and earlier.

The advantage of these, besides that you have a reliable tool that never gets short or thrown away, is that it can take not only all the grades of graphite, but also carbon and colored leads.

I still have a Koh-I-noor brand holder, just like this one, with a nice heft to it, that I got on one of my first jobs, plotting graphs and doing paste up, back in the 80s.

[Francis-White]

Great video man it has very nice audio and the way your informing doesn't get boring

[milaronyartgallery]

Amazing art. Very creative. Really awesome work. I enjoyed it so much. I give praise & support for making it so well. ❤❤