Welding with 7014 rods

In this episode we we tackle welding with 7014 with mixed results.

For more info on the 7018 vs 7014 storage requirements

0:00:00 intro
0:01:33 7014 vs 7024
0:05:40 let’s weld
0:10:41 overview
0:12:58 vertical up
0:28:43 lap weld

[weldfox]

The trick with rutile electrodes is to get a longer arc length, just to spread out the droplets of molten metal in there better . A longer arc length also helps to get the slag out of the way and helps avoid slag inclusions . Some colleagues like to weave these but i personally like to do stringers with slightly oscillation left and right on vertical up . And another good tip is to get yourself a good brand like : esab, lincoln electric, oerlikon, and böhler . You will immediately see better results . Have a nice day

[whotube]

7014 is my goto rod, DCEP on an inverter welder. Low splatter beautiful welds.

[RobertBaker-pe]

very good demon you are very good instructor i am trying to start a hobby i have been through the cancer thing i am 80 years old . what wouldl be a good shop set up what would be agood welder to start up with that is not too much money. any help would be help .

[klif_n]

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm just a hobby welder and this has been gold for me.

[Cptnbond]

I picked up these 7014/2.4 mm(3/32") rods for practice on my old AC machine - which only has fixed 50/70/95, and 120A current selections. I found it very hard to dial in this rod, but we will give these a new chance once I get my hands of my new Migatronic multiprocess machine. Keep the good stuff coming. Cheers.

[Buzzkillco]

i happen to have about 15lbs worth of super old and even rusted 7014 3/32 rods and when i was burning them yesterday they worked great, i was actually shocked.
i also have 7024 rods. i’ll make a comparison video and post it. great video by the way pretty informative!

[jthatguys]

I learned on 6011 and haven’t run enough 7018 to like it. I hate 6013, can’t stand it, but I’ve taken a liking to 7014 for lightweight stuff. Can’t say I’ve tried it vertical or run any beads on plate, but I’ve found it easy to run.

[markdeitchman]

this video is very helpful and informative to me. shows me how to analyze a weld and adjust parameters. makes me feel better that I am not the only one who sometimes (often?) encounters difficulty dialing things in. don't think I have ever tried 7014. thanks.

[zombieresponder]

Your typical 7018 that most home shop people buy can also be run on AC as well as DCEN or DCEP, although there are a couple of AC specific versions available. The reason some of us recommend 7014 instead of 7018 is that most folks don't have a rod oven and can't keep 7018 at the correct storage temperature to keep the moisture baked out, so aren't getting the low hydrogen benefit of 7018 anyway. I do have a rod oven, and I would generally rather use 7014 because I've never had a porosity issue with it, while I have occasionally had random porosity problems with 7018....most often with old rod that had not been stored properly.

One thing you didn't mention at all is what polarity you're using these on. I have run them on older transformer machines and used both AC and DCEP. I've also run them on a newer engine drive alternator(diodes for DC) machine on AC and DCEP. I don't recall running them on my DC only generator machine. I don't recall an excess of spatter unless I ran too long of an arc, and I don't recall the weird bubble appearance at all. My electrodes were fairly new though. My experience with 7014 vertical is that it requires a little less amperage and/or slightly more manipulation than 7018. Also, very tight arc and rod angle perpendicular to the parent metal, or very close to perpendicular. All of this on old machines without fancy adjustments. It is less forgiving than 7018, but once you get it right it looks just as good.

7024 is only for flat and horizontal welds. The first two(or three) digits in an electrode number for carbon steel are the tensile strength, 70, 000 pounds in this case. The third(or fourth, depending on tensile strength) digit is the acceptable welding positions. A 1 is all position. The 2 in this case is flat and horizontal only. There are a couple of more, but they're uncommon and the average guy isn't likely to find or use them. The last digit identifies the type of flux coating. Every electrode manufacturer has this data available somewhere on their website, or in their literature.

[rbelang]

I remember messing around with Lincoln 7014; it has a weird brown flux coating... If my memory is good enough, I would have to say that it ran smoothly in vertical — I would have to try again, but it also ran downhill nicely...

[luciusirving]

7014 definitely requires a lot of skill to use.

[johngersna]

Thank you very much for this video, Greg. I would have driven myself crazy trying to figure out what I was doing wrong and why I wasn't able to get a decent weld with a 7014 rod. As great a welder and teacher as you are if you had a few difficulties with it I'm sure that anything that I would do would look and be terrible. I guess that I'll probably only use them for practice, and or lap and flat welds just to use them up. Again, I thank you very much for this video and I'll be watching for your next one. P.S. The 7014 rods that I have are probably way older than the ones that you were using. 😊 God bless. 👍👍👍

[mkearn]

On almost every rod other than 308 I run straight in or 5 degrees. I’ve never run 7014 uphill tho. I’ve used it a few times on galvanized. Typically if I can get 7016 on a job I’ll use that where I can’t grind the hot dipped gal before hand. When I’m in that situation the majority of the time I end up runnin a down hill to burn it out then uphill over it. I’m thinking those rods may be too old or compromised. I’ve never had a 7014 dig that much or leave that much spatter. Maybe arc force needs to be turned down? Maybe a looser ( more stepped) weave? I’m gonna have to pick some 7014 up and give it a shot

[derekgreen]

I have a really important question. Are you Canadian or from Minnesota? And if uoure from canada do you know ave? Lol

[mkearn]

That bead appearance is definitely interesting, kinda looks like porosity pinholes and the termination of the stringers had some from yankin out of the puddle to quick. It would be interesting to grind some of that weld and see if it is solid or if there actually is porosity. Like you said it may be from the rods being old

[TheDuckofDoom.]

I have seen a (professional lab) test of damp 7018 (I don't recallthe specific brand) and it basically has the similar strength and brittleness as the xxx0-xxx4 rods of similar alloy content.( A few hours at 400⁰ in a home oven will refresh it 90%+ for non safety critical welds, manufacturers just don't test every possible storage cycle combination for their products so they won't recommend it.)

But as for comparing rods, the ASW number is basically just info about how it will behave during welding, it really doesn't say too much about the final deposit properties.
There is reason the big brands produce several versions of each popular rod number, eg ESAB has about six+ 7018 rods and four 6010s. The actual as-welded strength and toughness (and sometimes after post-welding stress relieving treatments) for any rod is published by the manufacturer. Toughness is indicated partly by elongation at break and partly by the charpy v-notch impact test (at various temperatures, be sure its apples to apples)

[georgesimpson]

change your rod angle. you keep pushing up... raise your hand higher so you are dragging up. Also try straight in. You'll find you loose the roughness.

[TheMiniMachineShop]

Hi Greg, one of my viewers heard me complain about my rods sticking and having a hard time getting an arc to start. He emailed me saying Hobart 7014 was formulated for easy starting. Wondering if you find this true and your opinion. I believe my problem was having the inductance set mid-way.

[yurimodin]

my guess is like 6013 these really shine on know, I know, most guys think AC is obsolete but you will have less overpenetration and some cleaning action as well. This to me seems like the inverse of 7018, yeah it says on the box that you can run 7018 on AC but yeah

[trevorstrutt]

7014 i find the easiest rod to use and looks better then most..all the qell drillers down here use it for their caseing on holes