What's Destroying My Honey Crop? Small Hive Beetle Damage..

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What's destroying my honey crop? Learn what small hive beetle damage looks like in a honey super and what you can do with the slimmed honey. Also learn ways to manage or prevent shb in your bee yard.

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They are a PAIN J.C. ! Had a 60+ year ole Time Bee keeper tell me " IF you youngins today can manage to keep a colonies or 20 alive today, then y'all are the REAL BEEKEEPERS!!! Was a cake walk for us way back yonder! "

Also been told that them dang SHB's can do the same thing to the brood box honey stores, fermenting the honey and will make the bee's very sick! 😢

We've got our hands full brother with all these pest, let's not go down without a fight and again, thanks for all your doing for us and especially our 🐝's ! 👊💯

brucekellman
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Try this for your hive beetles, lay one SWIFFER DRY SWEEPER CLOTH on top of the frames of each super and after a few weeks double check. You may loose a couple bees, but the beetles will crawl onto the Swiffer sheet and their legs will get entangled and they are stuck or die on the sheets.
Give it a try.

johnburns
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My favorite mead recipe so far is Bochet. It's rather involved at the start but is the best bet for off flavored/questionable honey like I get at the store. I use about 2.5lbs of honey per gallon but most folks use 3.

Get a large pot at least 3x (preferably bigger) the size of the honey, then boil the honey till it reaches about 300°F or to taste, at this point the foam will be dark brown and the honey will be like a black toffy. Turn off the heat and carefully pour in water, some will flash boil. Stir until all honey is dissolved. Add nutrients as required and move to vessel with airlock. While that cools down, start rehydrating your yeast, I personally use a red wine yeast like red star montrachet but I've heard brettanomyces does amazingly well with this style. Start adding a little bit at a time of the must (honey water) to the yeast solution every 20 minutes, until the yeast solution(starter) has about doubled or trippled (more is better) in size and vigorous fermentation has begun in the starter, now add it to the rest of the batch and wait a few months (staggered nutrients during fermentation if you so choose, don't use staggered nutrients if you chose Brett yeast).

At this point it's ready to drink as it is, but now let's make it shine. Soak about 3 oak cubes per gallon in cheap but drinkable bourbon and add about 15 drops of vanilla extract per gallon. Let this sit in a small container for at least a week then add the whole thing burbon/cubes and all to the mead, preferably by racking the mead to a new vessel and leaving the dead yeast behind. Now start tasting a sample of the batch every few days until you almost notice the oak flavor, rack again leaving the oak cubes and any more dead yeast behind, or you can bottle at this point. Wait a few more months to bottle if you so choose.

This recipe ages extremely well, even if you aren't happy with it at first it'll be amazing in a year or two.

aceisking
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Jason. I think your problem may be with the bee escape. It’s great at getting the bees out, but leaves the frames unattended. The bees make what I call beetle jails on the ends between the frames. They will propolize little pockets and herd the beetles in there and not let them out. With that bee escape, the bees and jailers are all out and the beetles have a jail break escape and have free reign to infest the honey. I’ve never used bee escapes and I do have a lot of hive beetles and have never had a problem with beetle larvae in my honey. Try using honey robber or a brush to harvest individual frames. The best beetle control is a strong hive. Some hives I help with beetle blasters and swiffer pads (non scented). I start with the beetle blasters first. The swiffer pads are a mess, but effective. In Oklahoma we’ve had SHB ever since I started 7 years ago. They are worst in August to end of season and will take out a weaker hive in those months. Thanks for the video.

JeromeBeeFarm
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Hey Jason, because you shared your pollen paddy recipe with me I will share my meade recipe with you. It is a rather lengthy one, but one that I make and barter with. I have yet to have a complaint so give it a whirl! Don't be shocked at the amount of honey that is used. You can always trim it down to a three gallon batch by cutting everything in half. You cna also skip the barrel aging process as well and the meade will turn out just fine. Here it tis:




Ingredients





4 Gallons of filtered water. This will ultimately create 5
gallons of Meade





2 tsp of yeast nutrient





1 tsp of yeast energizer





12 pounds of raw honey





2 ½ cups of either raisins or maraschino cherries





1 cup of fruit juice. 2 Tsp of jelly dissolved in 1 cup of
warm water works too.





1 packet of White Labs WLP720 yeast





¾ tsp of potassium sorbate





½ lb. of raw honey dissolved in ½ gallon of water (used for
back sweetening)





 





Utensils





20-liter white oak aging barrel





7 gallon boiling pot, stainless





drain hose





large plastic funnel





long handled spoon





large glass or metal bowl





small glass bowl





1 cup stainless measuring cup





2 thermometers





hydrometer with beaker





wort chiller





5 gallon glass carboy





Airlock with rubber stopper





Siphon hose





Get yeast out of fridge and place
in your pocket. Place boiling pot on burner. Measure off 4 gallons of filtered
water into plastic five-gallon jug. This would be a good time to get the yeast
started and set aside. To do so thin out the jelly with water or place fruit
juice into bowl. Heat 15 seconds in the microwave. remove and test the
temperature. If it is 100 degrees +/- a couple of degrees go ahead and open the
yeast and mix it into the bowl with the fruit juice. If not heat or cool as
needed to get to 100 degrees. Cover and set aside for now. Put it in a spot
where it won’t get knocked over.





Measure out 13 pounds of honey into
the large metal bowl. A couple of ounces over doesn’t hurt. Set this next to
the pot.





Now back to the water. Pour 2
gallons of the water into the pot and bring to a boil. Once it is boiling let
it go for about 5 minutes and turn it off. add the yeast nutrient and the super
ferment to the water. Dump in the honey using the hot water to get as much out
of the bowl as possible. Stir the honey and water mixture until all of the
honey has dissolved into the water. Add the raisins or cherries. stir the pot
one more time. Move the pot outdoors or wherever you plan on using the chiller
at. Place the wort chiller into the wort. Now add the other two gallons of
chilled water. Stir everything up and using the second thermometer take a
temperature reading. It will probably be well above 80 degrees.





Hook the chiller up to the cold
water and turn the water on. Keep gently stirring the pot until the temperature
is down to about 80 degrees. Once the temp is in range, move the pot back
inside to the counter. Screw the drain hose onto the valve. Get the beaker for
the hydrometer and drain some of the must into the beaker. Using the hydrometer
take a gravity reading and record for future calculations of ABV.





Get the glass carboy and place it
on the floor below the pot. Drain the must into the glass carboy. Make sure the
level is below the neck area of the carboy. scoop out or pour into the raisins
or cherries making sure they all get into the glass carboy.





Get the yeast and check to see if
it has started up. It should have bubbles across the top. Take a temp reading
it should be right around 80 degrees. If it is, place the funnel onto the glass
carboy and add the yeast mixture to the must. Pick the carboy up and give it a
healthy shaking. Sterilize the airlock and place it on top of the carboy using
the rubber stopper.





Move the carboy to a room that the
temperature can be controlled in and place in a dark corner. Use a towel to
wrap around it to keep the light out as well as the heat in. Optimum fermenting
temp is right around 70 degrees.



The fermentation process, once it kicks in, should
last about a week, but could go as long as two weeks. Once the fermentation is
done, transfer to a secondary carboy and let sit for another week. Add the
potassium sorbate and let sit for 5 days. Heat up the half gallon of water in a
pot to 160 degrees and add the honey. Let it cool till it is 70 degrees. Add
this mixture to the must. Get out the 20-liter white oak barrel and fill it
with water. You will want to let this sit over night or at least for most of
the day. This will allow the wood staves to expand and plug up any leaks in the
cracks. Dump out the water once you are sure there are no leaks. Place the
secondary carboy with the must in it on the counter and using a siphon hose
drain the must into the barrel. Place the bung on the barrel and store in a
non-environmentally controlled area. The barrels need the temperature
fluctuations to help with the aging process of the must. Let age for at least 6
months or longer.

kurtlangeberg
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Good talk fellow beekeeper. Thank you for all of the great information you are much appreciated! ;)

trulylynn
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Good information Jason. Started two batches of Mead this summer. One regular and one Cyser with Apple Cider. Thanks for sharing.

richardkuhn
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you could freeze the box and put it back for the bees to clean up

sentimentalbloke
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Finally someone talked about this problem! Been waiting🇺🇸🐝👍

jaycustard
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Funny that you mention mead today. A channel I'm subscribed to just this morning posted his first "mead" video, "Gavin Webber". He is a excellent "fromager" aka cheese maker in Australia. Makes wonderful cheese & beer in his home kitchen. Someone gave him some honey and he's making mead. In the description of the video he gives the recipe he is using for beginners. It is a link to a PDF. I can't copy the link as it immediately downloads the PDF. Good call on how to use the "beetle honey". Looking forward to your story of "beetle mead".

gerardjohnson
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Option 4 is illegal in Australia, but even if it wasn't, I'd be choosing option 3.. JAOM is a good mead recipe for a first go at it if you don't already have homebrewing gear..

amphion_au
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Do you have migratory beekeepers that pollinate crops near you? I’m in Massachusetts and only my hives in the eastern part of the state have a hive beetle challenge and thats because of the cranberry bogs needing commercial bees. The western part of ma has enough local beekeepers to take care of pollination of simpler crops so no hive beetles in my hives ever. On the east coast its crazy the day the migratory guys take their hives out of then area my hives become bottle refugee camps. This year was so frustrating!

lordmike
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Thank you, this help me more. God bless you and your family

christopherdavis
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I found hive beetles in my hive in metro Detroit. This is a really strong colony. The colony sits off the ground on concrete. I only found a couple. The point is it's not if you have hive beetles but when you're going too.

davidwendt
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Some small batch 1 gallon experiments would be great Jason. you could do something unorthodox like a Joe's ancient orange, a Pyment, a metheglin, and a standard sweet mead.

reptilerick
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Yep, found them in the strainer. Feeding buckets full back to the bees. I'll try again next year.

WilliamMcNett
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I couldn't find the big thumbs up so I poked the regular one. I vote for the mead. I made it once and bottled it a little early and got sparkling mead. Sweet but still pretty good.

allenferry
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Thanks for the information, learn so much from you!

SmallTNHomestead
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No Meade recipe here, but very interested in following a series on making it.

Smokeybeesnatural
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Jason, away to help to get rid of hive beetles is to put old used carpet or some kind of a barrier that will not let the beetles larva pupate in the ground below the hives.This works for me. Also you can use Diatomaceous earth and spread it under your hives and this will cut up the larva and kill them, you can find this at Home Depot and of course your chicks love to eat them.

charlesthomas