WWD: Yves Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2012

In some respects, it was lovely, with elements of strength and lyricism, its essence rooted not in storyboard shtick but in ideas about cut, color and the essential updating of a revered and highly recognizable code. Pilati started as basically as possible: with the weather. He began his research in chilly times and just couldn't get into an easy-breezy mind-set. He started thinking about wintry colors for spring, ultimately incorporating rich jewel tones into his palette, and then about his fabrics, feeling for the decorative but not wanting to be mundane. Pilati thus built the collection around two primary fabrics, a tonal, textured jacquard with the look of sturdy lace and a gazarlike fabric called, coincidentally, Marrakesh.