Improve Your Crimps with Shauna Coxsey

In this weeks video, @ShaunaCoxseyClimber and Hannah Morris talk all things finger strength and crimp technique on at the newly opened @theclimbinghangaruk in Reading

The ability to use small crimp holds is part and parcel of good overall climbing technique. Crimping on small edges is something a lot of climbers love, and a lot hate. Small incut edges and flakes require a lot of finger strength, technique and good body positioning and can be tricky to master. In this video, Hannah and Shauna cover everything you need to know to crimp your way up the wall, from the basics of grip types for crimping and a masterclass in body positioning to work through crimpy problems with maximum effectiveness and efficiency.

0:00 Introduction to Shauna Coxsey
01:14 Overview of Climbing Grip Types
03:16 Finger Strength Vs Contact Strength
03:32 First Crimpy Project
09:32 Shauna Coxsey's Superpower is Crimping
13:43 Shauna Demonstrating Crimp Technique
15:44 Shauna Vs Most Crimpy boulder in the gym
18:22 Body Positioning for Awkward Crimps
22:19 Training Finger Strength
25:56 Finger boarding for rehab and warm up

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[cyalata]

Shauna is the sweetest person ever. I remember during the pandemic she was sending customized messages to kids to encourage them and cheer them up.

[adamtravan]

Awesome content. Big fan of Shauna through her comp career. Wasn’t sure if she was gonna try and come back for the next Olympic cycle but guess it’s on to the next phase for her. Keep up the great work.

[malindarayallen]

Hannah, you are hitting it out of the park with this channel! The content is crazy good! I'm so excited for you!

[wgsirski]

Wow Shauna is crazy strong. Hannah is a good climber, which makes it wild to see how effortless Shauna is on these. Great video!

[biomorphic]

Impressive to see how elegant and efficient is Shauna. She doesn't waste a bit of energy, all the movements are smooth and precise.

[Natalanium]

Would love to see more videos with Shauna on this channel, she has so much wisdom I could honestly listen to you two talk about climbing all day

[NathanBetts]

an abosluteee pleassssure - loved learning from the best 😊

[audiojck]

I actually started warming up more consistentl as a parent. Do some light exercises and hangboarding at home. Change the diapers. More hangboarding, pull ups, push ups, ... Do some other stuff. Cycle to the gym and be ready to go for a short but intense session 👍💪
Great video! Keep crushing it!

[SonnyKnutson]

To add something to the start explanation:
The different ways to hold your a crimp with one or two fingers open hand dragged and the rest in a halfcrimp (chisle?) as you called it. It is often a result of your finger anatomy. Which fingers are long and short. Our hands are very different from each other. Some have short index fingers and long ring fingers or vise versa.

Another thing about finger strength vs contact strength. For many this might be obvious but I'll still say it. Contact strength is how fast you can reqruite your finger strength upon contact with the hold.

[ScratchRick]

I <3 Shauna! So nice to see your casual conversation that was still full of useful info. I'm good at crimps but my dad needed this informative video.

[seaoc]

Been a huge fan of Shauna since seeing her compete. Super awesome video. You to genuinely seem to enjoy each other's company which shows through the camera and makes the video so awesome to watch. She's also got so many good little tidbits of knowledge which is amazing! Great video!

[msmeraglia]

one other tip NOT crimp related Hannah, is for people with tighter hips, when you were trying to get your left foot up on the red slab @7:13, a useful tweak is to turn your right knee TOWARD the slab (to the left) as you can get more reach. When your hip is super open like yours was (knee out to the right) its harder to get your left foot higher. I use this ALOT becuase my hips are tight and im shorter

[anon]

What a graceful and powerful climber! A really great teacher as well. Thank you for the vid!

[HerrFinsternis]

Britain's golden goddess 🤩

You both have such calm personalities, this was an excellent way to enjoy the evening.

Bounce into the half crimp ✌️ let's if we can can do that with getting stuck in the ceiling fan.

[afrikat.chalkbags]

Awesome video and such a chilled vibe throughout. Loved it!!

[hydra]

Haven't watched a climbing video in a while. Really enjoyed the chilled out unedited conversations in this one. Shauna has some really nice anecdotes/ advice

[EllaClarke-htvb]

What a great combination!! Thank you so much Hannah! One of the BEST videos you have ever done I would say!! 😊😊 can’t wait for the next video!

[TheJustinConnor]

Chisel is my go to! I think it’s mainly an anatomy thing but then gets reinforced thru practice. Thanks for the great vid!

[hoermzz]

Awesome video, Hannah!
So hyped every time you upload and this time with one of my fav climbers. Shauna seems so cool, skilled and down to earth it's lovely to see you climb together !

[lekanteto]

There have been so many well known and interesting people on your channel lately. 👍
Thank you!