You Might Have The Wrong Bushcraft Knife!

#survival #bushcraft #camping #edc

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DO NOT ATTEMPT ANYTHING SEEN IN THIS VIDEO AT HOME. YOU TAKE ALL RESPONSIBILITY AND RISKS WHEN USING, HANDLING, OR ARE OTHERWISE ENGAGED WITH ANY OF THE ITEMS, SCENARIOS, OR TOPICS MENTIONED IN THIS VIDEO.

00:00 Two Types
00:36 True Scandi
03:17 Sharpening A True Scandi
06:53 Modified Scandi
09:21 Sharpening A Modified Scandi
10:39 Pro Tips

[roostershooter]

If YouTube starts limiting knife channels, I’ll no longer need to keep my Premium membership on YouTube. They already limited my gun channels, and I won’t stick around if they limit knives also.

[J.sh_CDN]

To all those out there looking for a knife, don't get too hung up on what kind of scandi grind your knife starts with. After your very first sharpen, it's up to you whether you sharpen it to a true scandi, or microbevel, or even convexing it or ScandiVex. So get whatever knife has everything else you want, and then you can put on the edge of your choice

[jfbowers]

I use a slightly aggressive compound on my strop and put a 'convex micro-bevel' on my scandies. It works well for me, but I a FAR from an expert.

[colinburgess]

Most hand sharpened scandi grinds end up as a scandi-vex, where the grind ends up convex. Personally I prefer it that way and I purposely convex the edge of my scandi knives. A convex edge is still a zero grind with no secondary bevel, but in my opinion is stronger than a flat scandi, and more efficient than a secondary bevel, especially for woodworking.

[byteblock]

I like the natural progression a scandi or modified scandi takes to becoming a convex edge with a sponge and some sandpaper.

[jimbrown]

I've always heard that a true scandi is the easiest to sharpen, but they've always been difficult for me to do without creating that secondary bevel. I will try to sharpen with a pull stroke to see if it helps. Thanks for the tip!

[jameswysocki]

My ultralite bushcrafter from Bark River has a scandivex blade, and I absolutely love it. Never been a fan of using any if my scandi/bushcraft knives for any rougher tasks. I tend to carry a large knife or thick machete when I am out in the woods, like the Condor Warlock. I have convexed the blades of most of my larger blades and think they hold up better that way. Great video.

[bdcochran]

1. the best explanation I have heard.
2. I do have a hatchet in the trunk of the car, anyway.
3. I prefer the true Scandi grind for the reasons you laid out.

[OldForestBushcraft]

Coming from the land of Puukkos, Scandi grinds were to only outdoor knives I knew. Only later in life tested flat grinds etc.
Thanx for the video!
Cheers from the village of Fiskars, Finland!

[bosse]

I grew up in Scandinavia, I only knew Scandi grind, and always a true Scandi. And that was what all those around me used as well. And it worked well. And so easy to sharpen.

[longrider]

I've been collecting and using knives for hunting and fishing and camping and carving/whittling, since the late 70's. I never knew anything about grind or angle back then. Took me along time to figure that out. My favorite camp knife of all times is a Russell Green River knife. No idea what the steel is, but its got a 20 degree edge, so very sharp. And it really does every thing I want it too. Just my two cents worth.

[AsbjornsenogMoe]

Nice, thanks a lot! Quite seldom, but the comments in this perticular video, after my humble opinion and practical knowledge over 40 years, are 100% reliable according to scandi grind and micro bewel edges. Keep up the good work. Greetings from - Scandiland - Norway.

[georgemoutafis]

Another excellent video with very well said context. Personality, because of the reasons you explained in this video I try to put a scandivex edge on my bushcraft knives.

[bobinmontana]

Good explanation, but I prefer a Convex Scandi grind as found on my BRK knives. Especially with 3V or better quality steel, easily stropped in the field, but rarely needed.

[juanjauregui]

I recently picked up a Benchmade Bushcrafter on a whim, and even though it's a little dated, I always appreciate a quality, beefy fixed blade, especially for bushcrafting. I need to expand my scandi blade collection though.

[hristokassovski]

In my opinion a modified Scandi is more practical. Sometimes I maintain my modified scansi edge on a strop which is not a great idea for the long term because I will eventually end up with scandivex in a way. And then I will need to reproduce the entire blade in order to restore it. At some point the stripping will make the edge too beefy and a reprofiling will be needed.

I do not have many scandi blades though. I prefer saber grind which is a high scandi in a way or convex blades.

On all my puukko knives I have put a microbevel. This is because if used on any harder wood than pine their 0 scandi edges will roll.

Great videos Aaron and keep up!

[charlescollier]

I favor a slight Scandi-vex. Lots of the benefits of a true Scandi, but much more durable, and super easy to maintain/sharpen, even with a strop.

[MitchBollig]

Thanks for a great discussion! Personally I just find the pure scandi easiest to sharpen using sandpaper and a flat board, and the Jokers, Casstroms, and Moras have held up as well, or better than, my Bark River full convex (or other micro bevels like TOPS) ones after significant beating on wood. ✌️ 👊

[RustyO]

More fixed blades...hell yeah, thanks for the content!!

[StevanOutdoor]

Well explained. But a scandi to zero is only good on soft wood and soft food. It will roll on you if you try really hard wood of maybe touch a bone in the meat. So to me they are useless. I tested a scandi to zero (true scandi) on an Enzo (now Brisa) Elver in Colombia. It was the agreement I would test it as delivered. I have a video where you see the edge rolled on a piece of hard wood. It was easily fixed by giving it a small secondary bevel and never had a problem again. That is also in the video. But even when you look at the old scandi grind Puukkos they always have a small secondary bevel. They deliver scandi to zero knives to make your own secondary bevel. Often, and what I do, is just stropping the knife giving it a small convex. Scandi to zero is pretty useless.