3 ways to make an old house energy efficient. And still keeping the charm.

preview_player
Показать описание
There are just a few things you need to do to make an older house energy efficient. It does not include replacing windows. Come join Brent as he seeks to find a balance between historic charm and energy efficiency.

Here are more great books to check out on my Amazon associates page:

FOLLOW ME:

Brent Hull
Musicbed SyncID:
MB010LXZMJXMK9C
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

I'm restoring a 1906 two story farmhouse. Your videos are very helpful!!!

michaelbissen
Автор

Nice to hear someone who has done some research come out "against" spray foam... Seems like everyone is all about spray foam- I'm on the fence because there hasn't been much research done... Glad to see someone with their own opinion on these things! 🍻

joelstillson
Автор

Great info, thank you. I struggle with this all the time with my clients who own older houses and immediately feel that the windows are the culprit.

korakcolour
Автор

Restoring two 1880’s farm houses in Maine where we need to retain our heat. Finally someone addressing the effects of insulation on an old home and how to navigate it.

ScorpioRsing
Автор

I’ve kept my old 1940 windows in my house in Pensacola. I’ve even cleaned up the original hardware and put it back on.

jungletension
Автор

Agree on insulating being the best bang for the buck, and I'd add that air sealing an attic floor prior to installing insulation is also quite beneficial. Though I wouldn't call these insulations "vapor barriers". I think the intentional vapor-open profile of these insulations in older homes is what's helps keep them dry (and is a reason why spray foam can cause problems in these applications).

On windows, I'd say the install value is much more about comfort more than cost savings. It certainly affects the historic appearance of the house, so it's a tradeoff of comfort vs cost and appearance. I personally would pay more for the comfort benefits (being from MN) and then reduce costs a little by installing fixed windows in strategic spots, as fixed windows tend to be both less expensive and slightly more efficient than windows that can open.

dosadoodle
Автор

A study done by a Swedish painter, Hans Albeck showed the newest windows with their high price were only a few percent more efficient than the 150 year old Swedish wood windows. He spent his life restoring the old windows and making them tighter and more resistant to the elements. He got deathly ill from the paint chemicals and had to quit work to recover his health. During the recovery he researched the way paint used to be made and learned that linseed oil paint with ground rocks for color was the paint used for hundreds of years. So he started making his own paint. I have used this paint on whole houses and windows. The paint soaks into the wood and it never fades in the sun and it never peels. And the windows refurbished with linseed oil putty and oil will outlast the new windows at a fraction of the cost.

donlourie
Автор

In Sweden, northern Europe, it was common to use saw dust as insulation and clay as air barrier. Both also store moisture and heat.

achrjo
Автор

Love these breakdowns. 40 years pay off for something that lasts 20 years! It's a no brainer, hopefully the costs come down and it makes financial sense one day.

shaefrith
Автор

I will hopefully start the renovation / restoration of a 1830’s 2 over 2 home in the next 60 days! So excited! Kitchen added on in 1942, bathroom added on in 1955, large addition added on 1990s. It’s going to be fun!

flybyavtor
Автор

Thanks for reiterating these important items and clarifications. To share a little something. I live in a tiny, tiny, tiny, (did I say tiny?) cabin that I didn't build, it was on the property, it was intended as a weekender to stay at while they are enjoying the lake. Here are the layers: Walls: hardy siding, tar paper, 2x4 studs, R13 fiberglass insulation and 3/8" wood paneling. Also on pier and beam foundation. Roof: Roof shingles, tar paper, 1/2" OSB, R19 FGI, 2x6" joists, 3/8" wood paneling. After being here 10 years and fixtures needed to be replaced I started to work on it. So it's good to have someone like you on the youtube to help this hack along :-).

pointnemo
Автор

just moved from a beloved 1860 historic town home in Frederic MD which was fairly energy efficient to a 1968 town home in Leesburg VA which feels like living in a wind tunnel. I am working sealing up gaps where ever I find them such as caulking everything that is possible. Wall outlets and plugs and around doorways and windows and air vents. It is amazing how much air was coming in from the gaps on the outer edges of the vents. I used plumbers putty to seal up those gaps. The windows I am dealing with by putting up window coverings heavy enough to block the cold air and opening them let in warming sunshine when appropriate.

dorothydonahue
Автор

Great stuff. Window comments are bang on. Our old farmhouse hasn’t got the original wooden sashes and we are looking at glazing failures within 25/30 years. Our insulation is sawmill chips in the inner stud walls. Three layer brick walls so really hard to improve insulation except in the attic. Should probably add another layer up there. Good building all you fellow old house owners.

davidpowell
Автор

This is a relief. I got a window estimate from some guy going door to door and it was supposedly $60k for 17 windows in my 1959 house. They were willing to do it for $30k at 9% lolol. The guy was shocked when I laughed at how high the interest rate was. I will probably still replace my aluminum double windows because they are broken (glazing coming off) and I can’t find anyone who repairs - only replaces. But it’s good to know I can just do the ones that I want without or it compromising the efficiency. Thank you!

barbiedesoto
Автор

I agree across-the-board with everything you've said here Brent. To add a little I have had good luck with sealers that you brush onto the concrete, and then taping and plasticing...

maierhof
Автор

Great video. I find that people get caught up chasing the % efficiency of their HVAC, the R-value of their insulation, etc when really the only metric that matters is *dollars* spent on your energy bill. So people spend thousands on new windows to get their bill from $200/month to $150 or whatever. Makes no sense.

Another pitfall is that lots of people's experience with older homes, especially in more expensive markets, is from living in some neglected basement unit, so they end up thinking all historic homes are drafty, cold, and uncomfortable having never sat next to an old window that's been properly restored and weatherstripped.

And the building industry has done a great job convincing people that single pane windows are an emergency that has to be dealt with as soon as you buy a house. It's crazy

mauriciocurbelo
Автор

Finally, someone who understands old homes. 1880's miners shack in bisbee Arizona here And a 1920's bungalow (no character, lol)

Mrscott
Автор

Thanks Brent for all your effort and great content. I'm from Germany so our way of building is really different and we kind of lost the good taste in building. Nevertheless I love your knowledge of craftmanship.

tischlermeistertom
Автор

Excellent video and info. I have a 1926 Dutch colonial with no insulation. Long term I’d like to replace aluminum siding and add self-adhering building wrap and exterior insulation. Until then, one simple thing I’ve done is try to improve air sealing for my windows, doors, and any penetrations on exterior walls and ceilings such as outlets, switches, and lights. This has resulted in a noticeable reduction in energy bills and improvement in comfort for minimal cost.

seanwebster
Автор

I'd liked 2 have seen u making the classic house energy efficient. What u actually did us the preparation etc...

robertgeiger