'Astro Black' - Nicholas Daley SS20 LFWM Show

Set in an East London church, menswear designer Nicholas Daley staged a presentation that resonated with euphoria and pure joy. From the collection itself to the musical performance by Sons of Kemet, the fashion show Astro Black became a 'had to be there, sorry you missed it!' moment on the London men's calendar, as attendees got up from their seats to indulge in the spectacle.

For Spring/Summer 20 Nicholas takes his inspiration from the pivotal African-American jazz group Sun Ra Arkestra and their influential LP ‘Astro Black’.

Conveyors of the free jazz movement, Sun Ra challenged the status quo of not only jazz, but music in general. Voicing their views for black civil rights, they were key instigators for change, and their viewpoint on afrofuturism continues to influence to this day. Other musicians who were also pushing the soundscape at the time include Pharaoh Sanders, Alice Coltrane, Don Cherry, Lonnie Liston Smith and The Cosmic Echoes. Their sonic explorations informed how Nicholas looked at this season’s collection of choices in colour, texture and form.
Nicholas’ interplay of music and style continues through his collaborations with the most exciting musicians from the UK jazz scene, this season working with award-winning avant-garde jazz group Sons of Kemet (Shabaka Hutchings on saxophone, Theon Cross on tuba, Eddie Hick and Tom Skinner on drums, and Joshua Idehen on vocals). Releasing their ground-breaking album Your Queen Is a Reptile on the infamous label Impulse! Records to wide acclaim, the album was later nominated for the 2018 Mercury Prize and won UK Jazz Album of the Year in 2019. Alongside the live set from Sons of Kemet for the SS20 presentation, London’s Touching Bass (NTS) and Nabihah Iqbal (NTS, Ninja Tune, BBC) play a unique
selection of vinyl that inspired the collection. To infuse the feelings and emotions of his reference points in Sun Ra’s work, Nicholas meditates on how
their message influences present day in London. Each of Nicholas’ collaborators celebrate this original energy in their modern approach to the movement. Nicholas highlights this with his engagement within the jazz scene, championing the best of what we have in the UK right now, whether it be through music or manufacturing. His creative exchange with other UK visual artists continues this season with Gaurab Thakali working on custom typography and Studio Tilly Mint on original ethereal prints.

Highlighting the great craftsmanship in the UK, Nicholas continues to work with specialist mills on bespoke fabrics for this season. Signature pin-stripes and oversized checks are made with Irish linen manufacturer Emblem weavers, and bespoke woven jacquard by Vanners silk weavers in Sudbury, who have been operating since 1740. Continuing his collaboration with Northampton shoemakers Tricker’s, Nicholas presents a unique take on the classic loafer with the addition of the military commando sole. Together with Christys’ milliners, one of the longest standing British hatmakers, Nicholas has reworked the custom oversized Baker Boy hat in denim and Irish linen. Nicholas’ collaboration with Fred Perry presents two signature styles reworked: the classic Monkey Boot in suede and contrasting leathers and the iconic Barrel Bag with new
signature details and colourways. Exploring craftsmanship outside of the UK, Nicholas has also worked with Japanese hand-dying specialists in Kyoto on bespoke tie-dye finish garments.

Presented in the St Mary-at-Hill church, a landmark building founded in the 12th century, Nicholas’ Spring/Summer 20 collection finds harmony in the apt surroundings justly conveying the feeling and themes of the collection: free jazz, afrofuturism and spirituality.

Filmed by Joseph Dunn
Edited by Grimshaw Mink
Styling by Stephen Mann
Production by Antony Waller
Music and live performance by Sons of Kemet