How To Build Cinder Block Steps

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I show you how to easily build cinder block steps over a weekend. These were very easy to build and cost less then $100. I outline all the steps necessary to build these cinder block steps. Below are links to all the materials used in the build. If you have questions, leave them in the comment section below.

Materials:

I am not a certified builder and do not claim to be one. These steps may or may not be up to code in my or your location as done in this video.

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After watching your video, my husband made steps for us and they work just fine. Thanks for sharing!

solavisa
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I realize it is always easy to criticize, but a few points: 1. The gravel and dirt should not touch. An interface such as non-woven geotextile prevents the incursion of mud into the gravel when wet, which would compromise the cohesive integrity of the gravel base. 2. The gravel base should be angular and sharp to prevent shifting. The rounded pea gravel pebbles act as ball bearings and encourages shifting due to weight over time, leading to crooked steps. 3. The base should extend slightly more on either side to ensure even stability. 4. Putting in dirt into the cider blocks is not a great idea due to its ability to settle and form voids. Gravel is a more recommended.

ed
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Thanks for posting this, Craig! I am also replacing a rotted wooden front porch with cinder blocks, top blocks, and I dream of a smooth stucco finish with a bit of mosaic. Your video confirmed my instincts to completely fill the cinder blocks before setting the top blocks. I plan to sweep dry mortar down between the blocks and gently water it in, and I'll use concrete to fill the blocks. ... now I have to decide between mortar or adhesive to join the top blocks ... we have extreme cold and hot weather here, so that is a factor. Thanks again!

violetatcontentboutique
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Thank you. Just did this for our elevated porch so our old Great Pyrenees can get up and down. Works perfectly!

jeremycurbey
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Can you do a quick video of how they look now? It’s been 4 years.
I live in the Northeast with cold winters. I’m curious if you see them holding up from frost heave.
I’m trying to do steps on a side hill about 12 steps. I think over time they blocks will start to move, shift. Etc.

mmiles
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i like the video as it shows you don't have to be a purist to get good results. I also appreciate the comments that help possibly improve the install. just wondering why no one mentioned pea gravel as a base instead of angular stone base?? pea gravel cant really be compacted as it always has a tendency to shift specially the thicker you lay it.

LifeMasteryPodcastStevenArecco
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Thanks for this! I'm getting rid of a rotting deck and making a patio with pavers. These steps will be great for it.

brookenom
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Thanks for going back and adding chapters to this video. 👍🏿

Zilla
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We just laid a small pad of quick Crete under it all. Just build the frame, dump your requisite amount of bags and spray down with water- in place. After two hrs, spray again. Two more hrs repeat. Then repeat once more after water is absorbed completely. After 24 hrs, lay your cement blocks down . This way they won't sink or shift. Construction adhesive is a must if you're not pounding in rebar and filling the cells with more concrete mi's. You'll only need to do this on the sides if you do, to eliminate shifting.

maggiegrande
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I got to build my brother a couple of steps so he can get in his barn he's 60 years old and in bad health thanks for the tips I needed them

patsyroampachl
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Hey sure all the tips that were given by viewers were great. In this case these steps served there purpose. I hope this was his house and not a costumer is all I say.

johnleuzzi
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Have always been conflicted with this type of block layout! The blocks have the greatest strength when laid with cells open to the top but when laid on substrates such as sand is where the problem begins! The pounds per square inch of pressure applied is greatly increased on the wall structure against the substrate. This most always leads to the blocks sinking into the substrate shortly after the steps are used. Here is where I always wondered if 1/2" concrete board was placed over the sand to lay the blocks on. The concrete board is strong enough and would spread the weight over its surface area and not allow the blocks to simply sink into the sand. The blocks could be glued just like in this video or mortared if chosen. The concrete board can be placed on the sand at a desired grade and the blocks placed on it will be on a surface that is about as good as can be!

magicone
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This is so helpful. I think even I can do it! Thank you.

carlenegula
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mortar would've been cheaper than adhesive. I would've also apply it between the blocks. and use crushed gravel for filling the inside so weeds dont grow. also use a weed barrier. you never know. weeds are tough suckers

dattape
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I can do this! Thank you for showing us the basics.. thanks to the extra insight of the “engineers” too. Disappointed no one noticed how much you look like Tom Cruise.

Farmgirlathart
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Thank you so much I'm getting ready to build blocks step.

alexsmlbstory
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When you stack blocks on eachother they should always be staggered. This significantly minimizes sinkage. That includes the cap blocks.

braznartn
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The blocks are supposed to be staggered, so not have break lines from bottom all of the way to top.

Greenr
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Awesome, I really like it there you don't use any cement.

lot
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57 years ago similar steps were built for a porch that I own--no glue or mortar, no tops, no gravel, no rebar, no filling, etc. Etc. It works great with no safety issues--so much for the know-it-all smart asses with their inane criticisms.

kensmith