Ford F-250 XLT Super Duty 6.7l - Rear axle hub rebuild Ford / Sterling 10.5 inch

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My first time rebuilding a rear axle hub!

A very long, boring video of how to rebuild the hub on a Ford/Sterling 10.5in axle. My truck is a model year 2012. This axle has been used for a long time in Ford & Sterling trucks so there may be some differences with yours but generally the job will be the same.
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Fantastic video my friend. One comment I would make is: for me anytime I have grease-soaked brake shoes or brake pads, I would go ahead and change them out. In this case the shoes just go to the E-brake but for me I would still change them. Bravo Zulu on a job well done. 😊

johnparson
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Very very good job my friend, watching while waiting for tow truck to see everything I'd need. Excellent documentary video. Thanks, Brint Clark

brintclark
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Good video bro. I use the oven to heat up the hub, along with freezing the race. That heats up more thoroughly. Also, I use the old seal to pound in the new one. Hoo-ah!

JohnLee-cbez
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Best and most informative youtube video, I have ever seen. You are better then a Haynes manual. Thank you very much. Most videos they assume you know what they are talking about. You broke it down to make it understandable to everybody. Thank you for your time.

shortstrokin
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Nicely done video, I'm going through my 2006 F350 rear brakes and it was nice to see how the seal is installed. I would recomend that you replace any brake shoes that are soaked in oil, no amount of brake cleaner will save them. Any amount of heat and more oil will come to the surface and render them useless. Been there done that!!

johndkoop
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Best informative rear-bearing videos! Great job

tubagezer
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Thanks for the video, helped me get mine all torqued up and done.

michaelmanness
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FYI if you check in the machinest handbook of some other trusted book you would find out that adding lubicant to threads alters applied torque to the fastener by changing the coefficient of friction. look up ARP instruction and you will see that the type of lubricant will change how much you torque it. The silver antiseeze increases the torque applied by about 40%. be careful doing this. you may stretch the fastener past yield into the plastic range and the lugnuts can back off! I learned this the hard way as a teen with my 1964 Comet. Walmart started using this due to the rusty studs in the rust belt. I would only add a tiny bit only if the stud is rusted.

terrycarter
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Nice video mate...loved how well and thoroughly you broke everything down...even tho at some parts you could have been a lot more agresive on loosing off things it is a steering axle not so easily damaged by human hand tools lol. Great video overall.

panzer_vii
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I changed out the backing plate on my 2011 F-350 SRW yesterday and decided to add some additional information (alternative part numbers) Brake shoe spring kit (Autozone) P/N: Duralast H7976 $33.99; Rear grease seal (Inboard near the brake shoes) P/N: NAPA 27SS3319 $53.87; Inner wheel bearing cup P/N: NAPA 27501071 $21.29; Inner wheel bearing cone P/N: NAPA 27401101 $36.98; Outer wheel bearing cup P/N: NAPA 27501052 $12.77; Outer wheel bearing cone P/N NAPA 27401080 $18.88. Blue thread locker (Autozone) Permatex 0.2 oz. $7.49. I used a brass drift to knock out the inner bearing removing the seal and didn't have any damage to the bearings or hub so I probably spent $78 on cone bearings and cups that didn't need replacing. Thanks again for the video.

smoberdeen
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The bolts that hold the axle in are torque to yield hence the 37 lbft + 90 degrees. Those bolts stretch by design and will loose clamping force if reused.

garnetcampbell
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You don't grease-pack oil-bath wheel bearings. Soak in gear oil and install. They're lubed with gear oil from the differential housing.

dasleepmastr
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I am swapping some ford super duty axles in my Jeep and this helped me out a bunch. Do you have links to the service manual you referenced?

TheBeardedJeeper
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If you had metal shavings from bearing, then should have change differential oil.

davids
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Thanks Colt! Lots of great info in your video that I just wasn't finding in all the other similar videos out there. Specifically, the availability of tools to push out the oil seal. I was going to try to pick/pry it out and likely would have damaged the wheel speed indicator ring in doing so. Would have been a $300+ mistake! Just wondering where you found the Ford service manual data you had printed out... is there a free or low-cost resource for this info somewhere? Count me as a new subscriber. (2012 F350 Super Duty Lariat 7.6L)

jscott
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awesome video! thanks! (liked and subscribed)

thomasgranillo
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Awesome video! Where did you find the service manual?

bobbyblackburn
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Great video man, appreciate the details and specifics. Where did you get the info from for the service manual papers referenced? And Thank you for your service!

jeremydevillier
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That spacer that you put in between the bearing and oil seal what’s that part number I pulled my hub apart and I didn’t even have one which is weird cause I was just replacing the the backing plate and my hub was perfectly fine now I can get it back on

jackmutchler
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Question for you. If the bearings in the hub are oil fead with the slinger, is it required to pack the bearings prior to reassembly?

jeremydevillier