Argon Regulator Problems, a Tubesday Short

I can't figure out how I'm supposed to regulate the argon bottle with the equipment provided. Trying to get down to 20 psi, but have no idea what I'm doing wrong.

I apologize for not shutting off my welder when recording.

[quintenfreeman]

If you want to check the flow, squeeze the trigger if its mig, or open the valve if its tig. If gas can't flow out of the nozzle, the ball won't move.

[MrPickles]

Your regulator is not crap and is more than likely working just fine. A few tips to think about are that you should have your flowmeter completely vertical and not tilted back to get the most accurate reading, also read the side that says argon not CO². That dial on the front of the machine has nothing to do with your tank of argon if it's hooked up correctly. No clue where it's reading that 35 psi from, but that bottle has 1, 500 psi so it's probably not that. You can also temporarily increase your postflow time so you have enough time to adjust the flowmeter and have that ball where you want it.

[renerostohar]

It is a flow meter so when first opening the bottle the ball will float til the hose is on presure and then it fall down. When you pull the trigger and keep it the gas will flow and the ball also. I see nothing wrong whis it.

[rickylee]

The other little bras knob by the hose connected to the regulator adjust the the flow. Turn the machine on and hit pedal or trigger to open the solenoid in the machine then you can’t the flow
Also the the regulator should be sitting perfectly vertical. Not leaned back at an angle.

[TravisTycMe]

first dial gauge is tank pressure. second vertical is gas flow - should always be mounted strait up and down not at any angle. (when you pull the trigger - gas flows then you turn adjustment nob to set the flow rate ie using a 5 cup on tig or most mig welders this rate should be between 8 and 15 {I prefer 15 doing stainless}) when you first open the bottle - gas flows into the line until pressured up thus the ball will rise with the gas flow until pressure is equalized then fall to the bottom. the guage on your machine shows you the line pressure - most flow meters are preset between 30 and 50psi. I prefer a lower pressure flow meter for my work. 15 CFH flow rate on a number 4 AKA 80 CF bottle should render approximately 5 HR of gas flow - with pre flow and post flow = about 4 Hr of actual welding. If you Tack - Tack - Tack weld for 2 minutes reset position weld for 2 minutes reset position weld for 2 minutes - 2 second pre 5 second post flow you have used about 7 minutes of the 4 hours of welding even if this takes you 45 minutes to complete. *** VERY IMPORTANT *** Your machine should not alow gas to flow when not welding (except for the 2 or 3 second pre and 5 second post flow of gas) If your welder is allowing gas to flow when not on the trigger or pedal there is a problem with your welder. This is Argon gas or Argon / Co2 mix and can be deadly in a closed garage area !!!

[mikesuscello]

Everything is normal. With a flow meter like that, the dial is showing bottle pressure. It will read the same even after you close the tank valve. Once you push the trigger with the welder off, that residual gas will be released and the dial will go back to zero. As for the ball float, that is your working gas level. It only moves when you push the trigger.

[GypsyJrs]

That's the Yes welder regulator? Exact same question I'm looking to get info on. I don't have a pressure gauge on my Ssimder Mig 250d machine like you do on your Everlast. The bearing does nothing on trigger pull. The only time it moves is when you first ope the valve on the tank. The valve on the regulator seems too be opened or closed but nothing in between. First tank seemed to go alright but not great, the second tank not good at all. Checked for leaks with soapy water and kinks in the line, gas came out of trigger pull for 15 minutes max and seems lik it's empty now. Last tank lasted me a couple hours 60lb. Got some decent beginner welds out of it but this tank was all sputtering and spitting. Could have been CO2 for all I know. Wondering if they gave me something other than argon because the guy said he couldn't fill my tank because he needs to refill his main argon tank. Then he traded my tank for a prefilled tank he had. Anyway, I can't say for certain the the issue with the Yes welder regulator but I'm looking for a better one that can handle two tanks and shows tank levels. I'm also wondering if it's possible to get an air locked if you open in the wrong order like forgetting to open before turning the welder on or similar..

[RustyGlovebox]

What does the gauge show when you hit the trigger? It will show flow then.

[phillipquist]

The guage shows the bottle pressure . The flow meter has it's own internal pressure regulator. That pressure should be what the flow meter is calibrated with from its design by the manufacturer. Because my flow meter looks just like the one you are showing, I think it is sold under numerous Chinese brand names. (Yes*, Betooll*, NTX*, etc.). I think the flowmeter working pressure should be set somewhere between 20 and 50 psi due to the fact that has a rated maximum working pressure of 50 psi. The problem I have is that I can not get it to give me a stable 20 CFH flow. I have to increase the flow to a minimum of 30 CFH in order to get a stable flow according to the ball in the sight tube. I was looking to see if anyone else has the same problem and if they did, did you adjust the working pressure of the flowmeter by adjusting the hex adjustment screw (with the red paint mark on it) in violation of the warning sticker about the danger of injury if improperly adjusted?

[cyclopsgarage]

I’m pretty sure the gauge on your machine is for regular compressed air if it has the plasma cutter option.
There should be a separate connection for your shielding gas. It definitely should not be going into that compressed air regulator mounted on the back of the machine. The ball on the flowmeter part of the gas regulator only floats up when you have the welder energized for making an arc. Sorry, little long winded

[HodgePodgeGarage]

Dial guage is likely tank pressure. Ball/flow guage only reads when gas is flowing. Internal guage on machine....not sure...I think that is also flow...since after the regulator it wouldn't read tank pressure. I say open tank valve. Open flow valve. Open machine regulator. Pull trigger or open valve on Tig so you hear the hiss coming out the "gun" and look at ball flow meter and guage on the machine. Those should come close to matching imo.

[wyattoneable]

I'm no welder and my little MIG doesn't have any way to regulate the flow so your already ahead of me. :)

[spencerjohnson]

It's a flow meter Not a pressure meter..check it when it's in use

[timmytexlonghorns]

it's a flow regulator not a pressure regulator you need both they aren't the same thing

[TheFrameoff]

You should have another gauge in front of the one that shows tank pressure and that one will show working pressure, but like Rusty says working pressure should be adjusted when there is gas flow that Is how mine is set up

[DonnyBwelding]

For me I had to lose the inlet on the back and it worked better or have a10cfh leak

[jay-jay]

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with it what so ever.
It’s doing exactly what it should do.
I’m assuming your not very familiar with these flow-meters.

[TheOpenAirGarage]

That is a puzzler. If you can borrow a regulator from somebody and see if it fixes it.

[randyhertzberg]

blue and red welders do not have that problem ...., put a piece of duct tape over that junk gage on the welder and go by the flow meter, most likely the gage on the welder is faulty

[yearsaprepperr.jtilbury.]

you need a Pressure regulator BETWEEN the bottle and the Flow metre, ,,,