Stairs repairs

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The problem with this application is that the riser (counter stair) is too thick.

So when you are done, you’ll actually have less tread than you did before to stand on. And will find it extremely awkward walking down these stairs.

Just use a thin panel of wood on the riser. Gives you almost an inch back on the tread. Believe me that 3/4 inch addition of step makes all the difference.

mwredfern
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Thank you! EXACTLY what I'm looking for :)

clairepemberton-james
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This is exactly how I do it, except I like to drink a 5th of scotch first.

mistervacation
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This tutorial is the functional equivalent of a vehicle tune-up by illustrating someone opening the hood and closing it! Multiple steps and specifics have been left out. Before you spend $45 per tread/riser, you’d better get a tread angle scribe. I have yet to find stair treads that are square to the stringer skirt.

Also, wear a mask so your not breathing in the debris embedded in the carpet during demo.

Lastly, the video doesn’t demonstrate a finished polyurethaning step. Think twice about taking on this project if your experience is limited. It can quickly become very expensive!

johnnyk
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very nice video. How to finish the last top step? Thanks

jimmychow
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super easy, thank you. I needed to se that.

chuiincognitosalem
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Hello, does this stop the stairs from squeekinng?

nckuk
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what about the top stair! i was anxiously awaiting to see that one.
what do you do about the large gap in between the stair and the vertical board?

meyou
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But what if there are broken one's?

vitsin
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Where how much this cost for 12 stairs

Itsmeandmyadhd
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What material could you use for the stair ? Any timber or has to be special ?

Rycka
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Question:
Why don't you Stain the wood BEFORE
you put it on the stairs ... A lot easier
and then you can Sand it and apply Poly
when done. I do not understand why you
would want to do all the hard work once it
is on the stairs... Very Hard to twist and turn
to get to the right angles ...

JudiChristopher
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How to fix a non vertical riser before adding the new riser?

firassalloum
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So if u have good connection u don’t need nails . I took out my old stairs so I have the the rail left I did a test and it fits nice . I’m afraid to use Nails because I want a clean look with no holes or visible puddy spots . Did anyone else try just liquid nails I was going to claim the risers for a day or so and leave something heavy on the step part ? Appreciate the help

idkidk
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what about the top stair! i was anxiously awaiting to see that one.

jurgoSTI
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Ok so my only question is where the hell do you get the stairs with the rounded nose on them? I can't find anything like it, I can't seem to even find the half circle trim pieces like my current stairs use

RightUpYours
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If you do this, your stairs will be out of code. It's up to you whether that matters or not. Stair riser heights have a minimum, I believe, of 4.5 inches up to a maximum of 7.75 inches. However, the range from the largest height to the smallest height must not deviate any more than 0.375 inches. If you install new treads as suggested in this video, your top riser height will lose an inch, and the bottom riser right will gain an inch, resulting in a 2 inch range from the smallest to largest riser height, being completely out of code.

That being said, this style of renovation on stairs is very common. In my house they are this way, as are some other houses I've seen. Many people don't want to risk damaging the stringer by removing steps. If you have what are called open stringers, you can slip a nail-cutting blade on a reciprocating saw, pry the steps up slightly to slip in the saw, sever the nails and remove the step.

Where the above renovation becomes common are on closed stringers: where the step is not resting atop a stringer and nailed in, but is resting in a dado-cut slot on each stringer. They become "trapped" between the stringers and the only way to remove them is if you have access to the back of the stairs.

If you rent your home, you may not want to do the renovations as above: the stairs being out of code opens you up to a great deal of liability if some sort of accident occurs on the stairs. Even if the accident had nothing to do with the step heights, you can still be liable! If it is your own home, obviously you proceed at your own risk, but the liability still exists if a guest is hurt. In my own personal experience with these stairs, it tends to be a non-issue as people naturally tend to exercise some slight caution on the first and last step of a staircase, but it only takes one accident for that to become a major issue.

silver
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The only issue is, he is cutting the existing bull nose from the treads, in order to lay new treads over top of old treads. So you basically have a tread on top of a tread! Even if the new tread is just 1/2 thick, you raise each step half an inch which makes the last step uneven which I believe is against code. Does anybody know if it's possible to remove a tread from a staircase, be left with just stringer and then add new threads to that? Right now I have unfinished stairs that are pine and I would stain them but a stain pine would look bad against my oak hardwood, so I would rather have oak treads than pine treads but don't know if I can switch out the treats to keep the height constant.

kassius
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His staircase lay out is the exact same as my house 😳

xtm
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How wide is this stair case? I need to add stairs to a bonus room/attic and want to go as wide as possible, but I'm looking for proven examples like this. thanks and best wishes

georgea