Finish your 3D prints faster! Remove pla lines & smooth 3D prints with this method!

Thanks for checking out today's video, this new method is another DW game changer!

This will save you a bunch of time all while giving you fantastic finishing results & getting rid of those pla lines!

For specific parts of the tutorial feel free to check out the video index below as well as all materials used in the video.

Big shout out to all my subscribers & viewers, much more content on the way including 3 subscriber giveaways!

I want to thank all of you for subbing & watching, let me know what you think by dropping me a comment & if you liked the video let me know by giving me a thumbs up!

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Products used in video

Bondo filler primer

Bondo plastic metal

Led eyes for moon knight mask

Music courtesy of @adaytoremember

Original boba fett video using plastic metal

Video Index

Intro to video 00:30
The new process & the model 00:55
What is bondo plastic metal & how its different from other fillers & puttys 01:20
The setup for mixing the filler & acetone & tips with plastic metal 02:30
Applying the acetone mixture & safety tips & benefits 04:00
Quick dry time & sanding tips 06:55
After applying primer & inspection & filler primer tips 07:45
Finishing the helmet & some progress shots 09:10
My thoughts on this process & why its works 10:20
Benefits & recapping the process 11:00
Thanks for watching & make sure to subscribe! 11:30

[Thatbrownguy]

A side-by-side comparison of the spot putty method along with pros and cons it would be pretty cool.

[jasoncombs]

I've used bondo for years and never knew plastic metal existed. Right on, thanks bro!

[pandapropsncostumes]

Good stuff my man. Keep it up! And thanks for promoting the PPE. Kids watch this stuff and are usually less careful with safety, so thanks for always reiterating it

[bugman]

Not sure if you've tried this method, but I have had great luck with using UV curable resin for resin printers to smooth my prints. It takes very little product to achieve great results. I usually use a cheap chip brush to apply the resin to the model and then cure it either with sunlight or a UV curing station. Once cured, you can lightly sand and then prime. As with any filling technique, you will need to go back and fix any imperfections or places you missed. Wonder if that stuff could be thinned enough to spray through an airbrush...hmm....:)

[CreativeGraphicsGroup]

Love this. What a great option for when you can’t spray Upol or Featherfill G2 etc.

Might want to clarify that the texture was intentionally added in another step (in case they didn’t watch that video) so they don’t think that’s how this method looks when done. Yea, I know you briefly mention it and yea I know you can see how smooth the smaller section is. But it may help a few people really get it and realize the true value you’re presenting here. Keep it up!

[TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

I am using an Anycubic M3 Max, and M3 for the smaller parts. I am designing Star Trek (TOS) The Original Series models in fairly large scales. 1/100 and 1/200 scales. I am saving to buy a Phrozen Mega 8k as I have found out that the LCD is even better than the SLA, and of DPL printing, and the screens last from 10 to 20 times longer despite the double to triple cost of the machine initially.
Also from what I have gathered the LCD can be printed down to .020 with a 92% exposure rating where the SLA is supposed to be around 6 to 10% and the DPL machines is supposed to be about 60%.
They also claim that the LCD is direct so as not to be projected so there should never be issues with the light source being magnified eve microscopically which can affect the scale of the model.
So I know you are discussing the Weed Eater String melting machines here, and I am not trying to step on your toes with the Chem Printing topic.
I am just excited to be getting the results that I am achieving, and my archery company also uses the string melting machines for our custom archery bow brackets and they are quite sufficient for what we use them for.
Here are the first print results for my 3D Printed Romulan Warbird if you are interested to see.

[GhettoBlaster]

Basically, good settings and a good profile for your printer are enough to erase this problem. And for a clean finish, a shot of filler primer and you're 90% done.

[ChrisBoshProps]

I love plastic metal I've been using it for awhile and makes filling in the deep stuff and uneven surfaces much better then the red spot putty. I use both of them interchangeably on my builds. I'll have to try thinning it with some acetone and brushing it on...looking forward to it. It's good that plastic metal is getting some recognition now. Great video and explanation Mr. Darkwing thanks for sharing man!

[MiguelRodriguez]

My guy! This is why I keep coming back. The knowledge! Thank you

[andy-in-indy]

3M uses a similar material without the metallic grit in the Green Acryl body filler. I prefer using it to the red Bondo putty because it shrinks less and reactivates less. That said, it can still soak up your spray paint solvent, so you want a sealer primer or filler primer over it, and it does not sand as smoothly as the plastic metal will, especially if you let the plastic metal cure for a day before sanding.

[carlsworth]

good job - much quicker than the other fill/sanding methods I have seen

[MangaMan]

I'm going to have to try this when I work on my Spartan armor, thank you for sharing!

[cshoffie]

Great video, man. Starting a big PLA project and this is timely advice. Subscribed!

[oddduck]

So awesome! Thanks for sharing such a cool project!

[briansmith]

Great vid. I was wondering if a dump gun used to spray gel coating would work or maybe a fine automotive grav feed sprayer? Working with 3d prints is kinda like working with fiberglass so I just thinking that the same tools and methods may apply. Thanks and keep up the good work.

[MrAfterShock]

This is phenomenal! Thanks for sharing and I’ll have to be sure to remember this when I start working on masks and helmets… 😃

[danholzer]

Nice video very helpful and great background music

[AndrewAHayes]

Wrap some PTFE tape around the threads of the tube before screwing the lid on and it will last loads longer, you can do the same for tubes of superglue also!

[skullcraftcustoms]

I make stuff we call Rondo it’s a combination of polyester resin and Bondo it’s mixed in so it has a little more liquidy than syrup consistency and it works pretty good and it’s easy to sand

[ZdPrints]

I actually was about to try this last night! Decided against it but will try on my next project