How to Tie A Hand Shake Clove

AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains the hand shake clove to increase your efficiency on multi-pitch routes

[Helicaloptera]

If you set up your belay using the climbing rope instead of carrying a load of accessory cord, not only are you already tied in, but the whole belay is dynamic and will help to reduce the shock on the anchors if your second takes an unexpected flapper!

[mff]

I have to agree with the other comments...when I get to my belay station, I'll either clip into the first piece with a sling or at least clip the rope into that first piece while I tie a clove. That said, he was on a solid, stable ledge without much exposure so, honestly, this method was sufficient for the conditions.

I've also used one handed cloves quite a bit for tieing in opposing pieces to make certain nut placements multi directional.

[rockklimber]

Nice and convenient that there is already a pre-built quad anchor off a couple of bolts left for him at a belay. If it was only so easy on every climb.

A better way (especially when building a trad anchor) would be to place your first piece of pro and clip into it with the rope. That way you are protected while building the rest of the anchor. Then you place your next two pieces and build an equalized anchor off all three pieces.
Pull down some slack on the leader side of the rope and Clip your rope into the master point (or top shelf if you are leading the next pitch) just like you would clip into a piece on lead (rope coming from behind the carabiner and coming out the front to your tie in knot). Now you can unclip from the first piece of protection you clipped into. You have now transferred from a single piece of protection to the master point (or top shelf) without ever being unprotected.
The take the hand on the gate side of the carabiner and grab the belayer side of the rope and adjust the length so that you are positioned where you want to belay (this sets the rope length the correct length from the start so you don't have to loosen the clove hitch later to adjust your length).
Then reach up with the other hand and pinch the rope on both sides of the carabiner right on the carabiner. This make sure stays at this preset length while tying the clove hitch.
Take the gate side hand and cross over the climber side of the rope and grab the belayer side of the rope with your thumb pointing down towards the ground and about six inches from the carabiner. Wrap all 4 fingers around the rope and pinch the rope between the thumb and first finger.
Pull the belayer side of the rope up and over the climber side of the rope, pronate your wrist towards the gate so that you can see the backside of your hand and use the rope to push the gate open and clip the rope into the carabiner.
Lock the carabiner first.
Then without releasing your pinched hand pull down on the belayers side of the rope to tighten the clove hitch.
Not you can go off belay and you were protected the entire time you built the anchor from the time you placed the first piece and clipped in.
(note: if you do this as described, the load strand going to the leader will always be on strongest part of the carabiner, the spine.)

If you can follow these instructions (hopefully I was able to describe them clear enough to follow) and figure out how to do this correctly, you will never try to tie a clove hitch in the air and then have to adjust it after clipping in ever again.

Note: do not tie into the first piece with a clove hitch. You will likely be moving around and possibly up and down while placing the other pieces of protection and a fall onto a clove hitch would be nearly static and possibly a high fall factor if your other pieces of protection are much higher than your first. Without the clove it will be just like a normal lead fall with lots of rope to give a soft catch.

[adventureswithfrodo]

good video, but before you go off belay at the top of a pitch you should be clipped in, not holding on with you hand. now just need to practice the knot.

[daktariTJ]

no shit, clove hitch should be learned that way, one handed, left and right.