Residential Hot Water Recirculating Circulation Pump GRUNDFOS

You will need to have a return on your hot water pipe. Like a loop. You can see how my circulator is hooked up and hopefully, it will give you an idea of how they work. This one is a GRUNDFOS brand and costs about $250.

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[rcdeal]

I have this thing and I was wondering what the hell it was cause we bought this house a couple years ago and it was unplugged. I thought it was something to flush the water heater, but I didn’t know, so I just checked on Google and pulled up videos and your video came up and oh my God I got it working and now I have hot water almost immediately, thank you so much! Wish I looked into it a couple years ago 🤦🏻‍♂️ but I’ve been busy trying to fix the rest of my money pit here. Thank you again!

[HillGriggs]

I cannot tell you how much I have appreciated this lesson. I already have a similar pump but different model that pumps with a separate plumbing line through the tankless water heater. I have a timer on the line so that I can push a button and it will circulate for 5 min. then turn off. Well, one day after the summer, I pushed the button and nothing happen. So I decided to get a new timer. Between the time I ordered the timer and receiving it, I checked the line while bypassing the timer and it still did not work. So, I just surmised that it was the pump. So I started looking at pumps....at $90 to replace the one I had. So I went online to find out any trouble shooting with the pump that I have that would help but decided to check on-Iine BEFORE I ordered. To my surprise, after watching your video, I, in fact, went out there and tapped the pump with a wrench a few times, shut off the system and opened the line at a point just past the outflow from the pump. With crossed fingers, I plugged the pump in and, low and behold, about 2 gallons of rusty, dirty water came flowing out. When I unplugged the line, the flow stopped. I plugged it in again and the flow restarted. I ran it until the water was clear. And with that, I will only be of the money that I spent on the relay timer ($50) and the price of reconnecting the line from where I drained the the way, I failed to mention that this all got started at this point because of our record cold winter after the PEX connection just past the back-flow prevention valved sprung a leak, after the pipes has frozen, after I left the garage door open to go to, of all places, HOME All I need to do is replace to connection to the back-flow prevention valve and we will have a re-functioning hot water recirculating system at a fraction of replacing the pump. Thanks again!

[JamesLv]

Thank you very much! My pump had seized up. Tapped the screw few times and it started working!
You were so helpful!

[rachellealex]

Thanjks Adam!  I was not getting any heat in my basement at all.  I thought my pumps were cooked.  But then that tapping suggestion fixed my problem.  I instantly got heat circulating in the floors.  Awesome!  You saved me a 700-800$ in costs!

[readytemp]

To reduce the high energy consumption caused by circulating hot water homeowners can install a Intelli-Circ controller which will allow the system to function as an on-demand and/or scheduled operations.

[evenflow]

This is the only video on YouTube showing the pump connecting to the bottom of the tank, my preference.

[chilledmunkybrains]

Thanks for the tip about resolving a seized up pump.. The hammer trick worked and got it working. 

[NatLangford]

Thank you for posting this. Our water heater (left side, like yours) broke and leaked in basement 2 days ago. Plumber coming tomorrow and I didn't know what to do with our circulator, even though I've got the manual here. At least I turned it to low from medium. There's no expansion tank I can see. Also, there's no timer or off button. 5-7 hours until plumber comes...

[readytemp]

This system could be optimized by incorporating and Intelli-circ controller and installing it's temperature probe just before the last hot water load on the loop. Thereby preventing circulation when hot water is already present throughout the loop. Simply place the pump in ON mode and plug the pumps power cord into the Intelli-circ.

[dreamhillresearch]

That was really helpful info!!! I have a UPS 15-42 SU that wasn't running and I tapped it on the screw like you recommended and voila! its working now. Thank you!!

[fortunatedad]

That's a good tip for a temp fix.
Replacement is highly recommended when you start to have mechanical failures like that. Try to get some support on the piping though, otherwise you may come down to flooded basement. As a plumber it is code to support pipe for the reason in stress on so joints don't fail. Yes soldering and threaded are strong joints but still have the potential to fail which is why the code is in place.
You may make it years or you may not, not worth the gamble in my opinion 🤷‍♂️

[greenskeeper]

ok. Thank you. Will try. Won't be today. Already told Jeri I was in communication with you. She very much appreciates your concern.

[coolchicacarol]

Thanks for posting. Liked the description and hope more people install them

[cptspiffy]

Thanks for this; saw this on the HWH of a house we're buying and had no idea what it was.

[tasmedic]

good tip on percussive maintenance of the pump!

[TheSocalHandyman]

Thanks for the info man. Highly appreciated it.

[therighthandmann]

If new construction, consider insulating ALL of the hot water "loop" (throughout the house) to reduce heat loss. Try to minimize developed length from the faucet to the loop - maybe 5' or less.

[milliegrazieuno]

Can the pump be run full time? Other than energy consumption will it necessarily harm the pump?

[patricktheplumber]

The return off of the pump should be going in the cold side inlet of the water heater ! Not the water heater drain where you have it tied in you need spring checks on the cold side to ensure hot water dose the get forced back through the cold side water lines !

[fooBar]

Hello. Is my understanding correct: You connected the pump to cold return and connecting to drain plug? My tank has hot out from the tank and a cold-in from my water mains. How do I fit into that setup? A diagram would be useful - one with one tank and another with 2 tanks like yours. BTW the pump manufacturer's manual says that one must add a bypass valve under a sink. Your approach does not need that because you are using the drain of the water tank? Your approach is different than what the manufacturer is suggesting - can you comment on that. If one can avoid the bypass valve that would be good. Thanks