Sharp Images - [5 Focusing Tips]

How to get sharp photos? I give you 5 Focusing Tips

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⏱Timestamps
00:00 Intro
00:28 Manual Focus Help
01:21 Face Priority
02:43 Full-Time AF
03:26 Exposure to Focusing point
04:29 S-AF+MF
06:07 Do you have any tips?
06:17 Watch Next

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This video was made with the following gear:
My video gear:

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Olympus OM-D E-M1 MKIII

Lens:
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f2.8 Pro

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(disclaimer: Some of the links above are affiliate links. Using these links when doing purchases, you support this channel. You pay the same price and I get a few bucks to finance this channel.)

[AliAlireza]

It's Olympus XZ 2. I used to have this camera 9 years ago ❤️💓💗

[joanantonim.p.]

Thank you very much, Peter... 👌👍👍🙏
¿Olympus Stylus... 🤔🤔??
"SALUDOS... 👋🙋😃 "

[bradleyeid]

A focus hack especially good for slower lenses like the M. Zuiko 17mm F2.8 pancake. On the E-M1 MKII I often use manual preset focus. Instantaneous focusing that way. At 17mm preset to 3.45m/11.3' which is hyperfocal at F5.6. Wider apertures (F2.8 to F4.0) narrowed the focus zone. Conversely stopping down widened zone, for example F10 in focus from 1.2m/4' to infinity.

Peter thanks for tip about linking the Face Eye Priority Focus with metering. Quick tests on my E-M1 MKII seems to work well with ESP metering not so in spot metering. Just confirmed by reading entry in E-M1 MKII manual. If any Face Priority focus mode is selected, then in Digital ESP Metering, the exposure will be set for the face area.

[carmenfissenden]

Good points and used them often . There was another worth reminding viewers and that is focus and half hold shutter button down and reframe and shoot .

Thanks Peter

[davidsirr]

Peter, it is an EP7. We can’t set one here in the USA. Can’t build them fast enough?

[Lizerator]

Very helpful video. I just bought a new M10 m4 And I'm learning it's in-and-out. I already have the OM1 mark 2 but there are some differences. I am binge watching your videos today and learning a lot thanks

[ReinholdFriedrichAuer]

Hi Peter, focusing under good light isn't a problem at all, either you use AF or Focus Peaking with it'S advantages. I have the EM-1 mark 1 body and can speek only about this body. Under difficult conditions like focusing in the dark or in the morning mood with very, very low contrast is a game of chance, because AF and Focus Peaking does not work anymore. Furthermore the Olympus Pro Lenses don't have a scale for the distance anymore. From my landscapes fotos in the morning with haze and fog, I though up to 80% in the ashtry. I would like to know, how does a professinal photographer handle this problem? (Maybe buy a Sony A7 which shows the distance in meters on the display`?)

[AlpacoFilms]

Another fantastic video, Peter! Thanks for doing this! I actually do set a button to switch AF/MF and since backbutton focus is not able in video on the E-M1 Mark II I actually use that backbutton (AEL/AFL button) as the AF/MF switch. That camera you have there wouldn't be an Olympus XZ2 would it? Another great video pleasure to see you again!

[marcuswagar]

When fotografing wildlife I use autofocus but then adjust focus manually to get the eyes sharp.

[martindimov]

I recently started using MF a lot more and I'm really happy with it. Of course, sometimes AF is more useful, but not always so MF - really great! I have it on my Fn1 button. Thanks for the tips and tricks! Really appreciate it!

[bobfitzy]

Coming to my OM-D e-m1 ii from a Panasonic bridge camera I was already used to af+mf and rarely use the manual clutch on my lenses. AF usually does the job, but sometimes with trees, or flowers with bees the mf override can put the focus exactly where you want it to be. I am starting to use the d-pad more to place the focus point as opposed to focusing and recomposing. It depends how close I am to what I'm shooting.
The new 20mm 1.4 looks interesting for the low weight and extra aperture width, but I'm not sure I can justify it as my 12-40 already covers the range.

[jasminyeow]

Hi Peter, I wish to set the MF in one of function button but I cannot locate MF in my EM1mk3. I hope you can help me, many thanks in advance

[ipadista]

When peaking is enabled you can press the info button to instantly change peaking settings, and immediately see how it changes visually. If lighting or subjects change. often you need to change color or intensity and going through the menus to adjust it takes forever and you lose the shot.

[riccardopalazzani]

I own a Omd Em1 Mk2 and with face detection active camera slows a bit. It's less reactive and slower in focusing and too often misses to point the faces or focus on subjects that are not faces.

[mot]

Thank you Peter, great tips.
I can't find the Spot Metering option in my E-M1, and I have checked my FW is updated to version 4.6... Are you sure this option is available in E-M1?
Kind regards.

[Centauri]

On my E-M5 Mk III, I just assign the Fn lever to go from AF to MF. Still, I think it's a shame that OMDS omitted the MF clutch and Fn button on the 20mm. Peter, is that one of the E-PM models?

[johnfallows]

Hello Peter. When focusing my 60mm Macro I initially use autofocus then swith to Manual and just move the whole camera in and out to finally establish the final focus point. Also, I think your new Olympus is an E-PL1 with removable viewfinder.

[mne]

I assigned MF to the red Record button. Just a slight movement of the finger. Also, on my M-10 II, I assigned AF-L to fn2. So, MF/AF, “back-button” focusing and the shutter button are all right next to each other. Makes shooting very fast.

[andreazevedo]

Hi Peter, hope all is good with you and your family...
I must admit I am and AF user and altough I do know how to MF since the film days, I am always a bit scared when using a MF only lens for example. I prefer AF and start from there.
On my day to day, I use S-AF-MF with focus peaking a lot in my Olympus em10 mk iii particularly with the pancake kit lens, but with my Fuji XT2 I have the Fuji focus button available and changing from AF to MF is easy.
Focus peaking is a must, and it is problably the feature I feel is most important when focusing.
Regarding tips, I prefer single point focus rather than zone point focus even though the sensors and software are getting better and better at guessing what we want to focus. Backbutton focus works well in my Fuji, altough I never tried it on my Olympus...
All the best to you and your family.

[cawsha]

I find manual focusing with AF lenses quite awkward because the focusing ring just keeps on turning and turning. There's no way of knowing when you have got to infinity or the closest focusing distance. With AF lenses that are actually connected to the lens this isn't a problem because the ring moves and stops at each end but with entirely electronic lenses obviously this doesn't happen. It would be very easy to provide an indication on the screen/evf to show when you have hit the limits - just a bit of software.
Another thing that would be easy to implement in software is a split prism simulation but as far as I know no manufacturer has ever done so.
About the always on focusing, doesn't that run the battery down very fast?