La Sportiva Genius Review: Is 'No Edge' the FUTURE of climbing shoes?

La sportiva geniuses are a top of the line climbing shoe sporting a unique "no edge" system that supposedly allows for better edging performance. In this video we take a look at whether this shoe lives up to its claims, and my personal opinions on it.

No matter what kind of rock climbing you're into, whether it be bouldering, sport climbing, or trad climbing, these shoes are designed to be the be all shoe for tackling all your hardest projects.

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[shurik_skalolaz]

Found these shoes to be my favourite their edging is worse than instict laces, but they are a perfect allrounder for the area I climb, which is either Breccia or radically Overhanging basalt. They provide me with a very good amount of friction on all the micro smears on the basalt, and feel significantly more comfortable than any edged shoe I have worn even though they are even smaller.

[Digdigs]

A few comments - Xs Grip is far more consistent than anything else out there, it grips well and you can feel when it's about to either release or deform under pressure. The supposedly grippier rubbers give limited warning as to where the edge of that envelope is, not allowing the climber time to adjust accordingly. The extra 'softness' also means (and this has been a problem since 5:10) these rubbers roll off crystals as the rubber deforms under pressure - never had a better rubber than Vibram. No edge - same thing on a macro scale, consistency and predicability in placement and less risk of a roll-off, plus they provide the same performance for a longer period of the shoe's lifetime - basically from new all the way to total blow-out. I've climbed slab through wall to steep with no-edge and have never legitimately been able to blame the shoes, the edge (smedge), smear and grab with equal facility and with a natural sensitivity that makes them great onsight shoes - if I know a thin wall route super well (worked to death, ready for the redpoint) I might consider something with an actual edge to it. RE: abuse to feet... I dunno, they, the Maverink and the Futuras are the most comfortable shoes I own... Maverinks are my go-to training shoe, suuuper comfy! I suspect that is more to do with foot shape/personal preference than the no-edge itself.

[dRrRp]

For what it’s worth they are my favorite shoes. Find them to abuse my toes much less than other aggressive shoes I have worn. Also there is a whole range of movements which just make more sense in no edge shoes, everything which involves rolling your foot to reposition on a hold or get more reach, just is awkward in edged shoes. I agree though that these kind of suck for micro edges, but they make up by being awesome on slopey small holds and what at least for me is the best heel I have tried in any shoe. What I do have to say is that the shape of your foot is probably what will ultimately determine if you love or absolutely hate these shoes, I have a very ‘square’ foot and this shoe allows my big toe to get up into the front of the shoe without annihilating my other toes. Someone with a lower volume or sloppier toe profile will probably have to have their big toe absolutely jammed into the front of the shoe to get a good fit. As far as the rubber goes, I find grip 2 to perform better than other rubbers on heavily textured surfaces, but extremely poorly on slick surfaces, so if your gym has not bought new hold in a decade or your local crag is some glassy smooth stone these shoes will guarantee you have a bad day. If on the other hand you are climbing on fresh volumes in a gym or on very gritty sandstone or course granite you might like this rubber.

[pierocus]

I'm a futura owner and I have contrasting thoughts. They should be really good on overhanging stuff but as a matter of fact I find them most useful on slabby/vertical stuff. I'm from north east Italy and I only climb on pretty slippery limestone so that's where I saw they make a big difference. On overhangs they really stand put for the really precise heel but I'm not really able to get power through them (maybe im just a weak bastard lol). A big issue with these super soft compounds is obviously the lasting of the shoe. It turned out, after I resoled them the first time, I only use futura's to onsight on my limit grade and use Scarpa's Boostic and Instinct laces for everything else.

[LongBoy.]

I have futuras, and they're the finest shoes I've ever climbed in. Similar to the genius except velcro basically

[mexicanprizefighter]

If you're primarily climbing on plastic, I can see why don't prefer them. However on real rock where friction and foot hold shapes are dynamically changing even within a single pitch or boulder problem, I find the one size fits all no edge toe shape to be superior to any other shoe I've used in over 20 years of climbing.

[BryceU]

I'm with you. I think they look rad, and are cool in concept. I found them to be sensitive and excellent for outdoor granite climbing. But at the end of the day I never fell in love with them. I too much prefer the Skwama which is about as good as it gets for an aggressive shoe. I also love the Otaki when I need more edging power.

[spencercalamari]

Man so much hate for no-edge shoes. I have the Futura's and they may honestly be the best climbing shoes I've ever owned. I feel like the no-edge has not only improved my footwork but has also strengthened my feet and ankles. The rubber is also unmatched imo but I'm mostly pushing grades outside and don't do much "comp style bouldering." Either way great video but gotta stand up for the no-edge community haha

[BomberBeta]

Really good review. I demoed a pair of these a while back I didn't like them very much. I agree with the point about them feeling super comfortable when you put them on but other than that I'm not a fan. I remember the red strip of rubber on the heel being really slick? Did you find that to be true as well?

[ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

Some great points there dude, I used to climb these and the futura's but found they were only really good indoors and that I would go through the no edge rubber on the toe real fast... Its a nae from me too 🤙 thanks for sharing this review, really well put together and concise subbed 😃

[idoido]

Great vid and good points!
Ive been climbing the futuras for about 12 months now, and im in love hahaha. I feel like after you strengthen your toes you can really make the best out of them.
They are the best shoes i ever used for slab and vertical walls,
they are alright on caves ect.
But wouldnt be my first choise.
I have been using them outdoors and indoors, and contrary to what I have been hearing, I feel like they are much better outdoors .
What I love:
1.the sensitivity
2.the heel
3.the absolutely amazing edging ability
4.the fit for my foot personally
I always tell my friend "no edge-best edge" haha.
But it always comes down to personal fit and climbing style, so I can understand where you are coming from.

[col]

That hook at the beginning was clutch.. this review was so clean man! You still using the GH5?

[thesii]

I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the Evolv Oracle. The rubber should be similar in durometer to the Butora's.

[maiahirvonen]

what were he white shoes you compared with in the sliding test? I didn't catch the style.

[unknownboulder]

I have worn the geniuses for one year, climbing everything from plastic, wooden holds, limestone, granit and sandstone and my experience was: I really liked how they fit on my foot, one of the best fitting shoes I had so far but.... friction was terrible, the worst I may say. I had a pair of AC Rockfly from the nineteens... they were way better! sensitivity was bad: I couldnt properly feel small edges, nor pockets... it was more of a guess when climbing on slabs, which is not what you want. I threw them away and swore never to use no edge tech cause there are so many other good shoes on the market... and the pricing on geniuses...but maybe if you like the shoe and want to just go climbing in the gym, i suppose they re alright

[stefan.h.]

This slip test is definitely a great idea but try to clean the soles right before the test and the sportiva has more downturn so it has not even the same overlay as the competitor.

[RossPotts]

As far as tying is concerned, if you’re double-knotting, you’re doing it wrong. I bet when you do your first knot it finishes more north/south right? If you just go the OPPOSITE WAY round the loops (kind of reversing), the loops will finish East/west and will keep themselves tightened.

I have a pair of BD Momentum’s I use for long sessions, and am breaking in a pair of madrock sharks for bouldering. Those things slip on like butter and when I’m done, they stick like burnt potatoes on a pan, LOL!

[georgebaldwin]

At $200 plus per pair, the idea of spending money to TRY a new concept is OVER. I'd rather spend my money on a pair of Miura VSs, Solution Comps, Katana Laces, Skwamas, Evolve Phantoms, Evolve Shaman Pros, Uparallel Flagships. FWIW: I have actually BOUGHT every one of the aforementioned alternatives and love all of them except the Skwamas..

[jeroenmeesters]

Mabye a bit late but i really love the genius shoes i climb on them for like almost a year now they are painfull on long routes but i can deal with that and i a way they just work for me

[NoahWizard]

when you talk about the price, "two hundred eighty nine dollar price tag, " is that in Australian dollars?