Vertical vs Overhang - How to Climb on Different Terrain

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As you broaden your climbing arsenal, you’ll quickly realize that some techniques are more effective on certain terrain than others. Your slow and controlled style of climbing on vertical wall doesn’t translate too well on overhang, or maybe your thuggy powerful moves on steep wall are of no use on slab. Whichever the case, the type of terrain plays a big factor in how you approach the climb.

This video will break down how to efficiently climb both vertical and overhung terrain by exploring the best choices for footwork, body positioning, and movement.
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[chrisp]

Finally, someone that explains the important things in fine detail instead of copying notes from other videos.

[maddog]

I'm a pretty novice climber, but I definitely noticed the difference between slow, precise movement in vertical climbing and explosive, quick-paced overhang climbing. When climbing overhangs I wouldn't be able to finish; not that I didn't know how to, but rather that I was so tired from climbing slowly when having a quicker pace would've helped.

[TheGirlClimber]

Love your technique breakdowns! So in depth and practical! I especially love the bit about smearing, I'm still working on my slab footwork technique! Keep these amazing videos coming 🙏👏

[deadnemesis]

This is exactly what I am looking for regarding climbing physics videos. I've been bouldering for about 8 months now, I consistently do 8 hours a week. I love watching your videos and understanding why certain movements are better rather than just guessing based off past experiences. Keep it up dude!

[mrthirty]

Nice video man, some good tips for improving technique. There is one statement that is not theoretically correct though, at 2:05 you say that more contact area provides more friction, this is a common misconception. The relationship between surface area and the friction force is offset by the fact that with more surface area, there is less pressure generated between the surfaces. So friction is in fact independent of surface area, however in practice I believe that using a larger surface area has the benefit of providing a better average of the rubber surface (when using a small section of the sole, you have a greater chance of using a spot that is dusty/dirty with less friction). Nevermind me anyhow, I'm just being pedantic!

(Edit: I should probably stress that this is completely theoretical and is a more suitable model for standard surfaces. As people have replied below, the deformation of the rubber sole will play a large part in the equation. Perhaps this is the reason that, in reality, we find a larger surface area is better for smearing)

[ralphmunn]

I've seen this in SO many climbers who pull hard and reel in some big numbers: they often do the right thing, but more instinctively than systematically. And their understanding of WHY something which works for them works is often a bit off. This leads to misapplying techniques because their understanding isn't "global" or fundamental, but specific.


Two examples of this came immediately to mind as I watched this video. The first, your admonition to climb vertical walls frontally, had you leaving your back foot behind on long moves and using awkwardly placed holds rather than putting your driver (non-support foot) where it needed to be to make your legs do the work. The FUNDAMENTAL here is differentiating between you feet as "supports" or "drivers." This distinction leads to the conclusion that your SUPPORT foot needs a foothold, while your DRIVER serves you better by being placed where it needs to be, rather than where a random hold is placed.


Second, and again this pertains particularly to your slab technique, your entire approach seems geared toward pulling with your arms, rather than pushing with them. Reaching down and PUSHING on the side where you're bringing up your lower foot will keep you from dragging your feet, or "tap dancing, " as it's known, and allow one to do double-leg stand-ups rather than the very strenuous single-leg moves which you were doing.


Just a couple thoughts from a veteran.

[illduitmyself]

"always move from a position of comfort" soooo il stop climbing lol

[schmetterling]

Im a climbing coach and I'm so glad you made a concise video on such a broad range, usually I have to have several sessions to get a students footwork proper and build their intuition to make their own judgement calls like weather to use inside or outside edge on a dihedral problem. A great guide to referance and made my job a whole heck of a lot easier!

[Lorax_Tribe]

Thank you for that demo! V3, V4 climber and I've been focusing on bouldering the last few trips. This is going to improve my overhang climbing for sure. I wrote a synopsis and I'll take a photo of it before I go to the gym this week.

[Zayaxa]

This was super thorough and well explained, thanks! I'm bad at overhangs but I'm about to head to the bouldering wall with notes I took from your explanations, and hopefully it'll pay off on the project I've been failing miserably on for weeks.

[AzureShadow]

Thanks for the clear vid, I've been having trouble with overhangs since I started climbing and any help is always welcome!

[daiquiri.]

Wow this is some amazing quality teaching and detailed info! way above most climbing tutorial vids I've seen so far. Makes me want to rewatch multiple times to take notes. If you keep creating videos of this quality, you should have a ton of success on youtube.

[sarallwilliams]

Just came accross this. Great video. Going to try a few of the overhang techniques tonight. But question: Did anyone esle pause and rewind at 4:18 because they thought the heart was actually something to do with the instructions. Lol #Imanidiot

[montagnevelo]

Most useful and clear video out of the 100 last ones I assisted over various climbing account lately, good job!

[alexbarcovsky]

I would add to this an advice for lead climbing although it isnt really necessary in bouldering. On vertical, you rest on your feet, on hard problems you can usually use your biceps and back to stick yourself to the wall and allow for some rest. In overhang, you rest on your skeleton, meaning you hold onto the best jug you can find and just lie down into it, depressing your shoulders and ideally jamming your foot somewhere, usually using heelhooks or the pointy frontt of your climbing shoe. This way, your muscles dont waste that expensive energy you need. This advice doesnt come up in bouldering videos, because you dont really need resting in bouldering, but it can sometimes help too. Of course if you can find a jug on vertical, rest like you normally would, scapula depressed and feet in a squatted stance, but there aint many jugs when you get past 7C/8A on slabs, and its good to adopt this technique before you encounter slabs without good jug rests.

[Sharethelightnow]

I just started climbing at pipeworks and your videos have been very helpful. Thanks

[javiergonzalez-qdtt]

Perfect videos, straight to the point and clear in every way, please keep uploading videos like this <3

[endTHEhegemony_Today]

This is gold! I was looking for this kind of video today! Thanks for your straightforward teaching style and for all the filming you did to get those demonstrations! Great stuff 🤙

[mustangthings]

Great video. I’m a pretty solid vertical/slab climber but the slow, precise movements I use on those routes translates very poorly on overhangs. These tips are very helpful!

[thebearded]

This is such an underrated channel! Awesome content!