RIDGID RP 241 I LOVE THIS TOOL!!! NO MORE SOLDERING.

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In this video I will show you how to to use the rigid RP 241
As I do a copper pipe repair
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Leak happened because of electrolysis when copper and galvanized touch the metals fight each other and that’s how leaks form 👍 great repair!

alexandermelchor
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Should have put a piece of rubber where the copper was touching the cast-iron or 2 hangers to lift it a bit of make a offset with four 45

greekmaster
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My 241 should be in tmro! I’m excited. I also ordered the claps that come with a separate jaw that allows you to swivel the tool rather than having to be straight on with the pipe.

jeremyconner
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What a great video on how to repair from start to finish - the best I have ever seen!! Hopefully a piece of plastic was added to keep the two metals from touching. Great pace, video quality, and great detail - especially the repair coupler. Just excellent teaching!!

rlopez
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Good job, love my propress, but you have to route around have 45'd around leak

bigchad
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I think you could have cut those pipes with compact round or C-style copper tubing cutters like the autocut. Milwaukee, Husky and Rigid also make C-shaped compact copper cutters. I would prefer these because your cut will be perpendicular to the end of the pipe, which will reduce the likelihood of leaks in your press fittings.

I see that you said you put a piece of rubber between the copper and the cast iron, but I think it would have been better to try to reroute the pipes a little bit to prevent the same issue from happening in the future. I would have tried to look at where the pipes go into elbows further down the line, cut there, and tried to reposition a longer span of pipe that had at least an inch of clearance from any part of the cast iron so the repair would last for 100 years not for somewhere between 1 and 10 years.

Yes, adding a rubber shim between the pipes would theoretically eliminate galvanic corrosion or abrasion to the pipes from movement over time, but I'm not sure if a tiny rubber shim would stay in place, and wedging a shim in a tight spot where 2 pipes were already touching will put stress on the copper line.

I like the fact that you used propress here to speed up the repair, but I think a couple minor improvements to the work would lead to a less-fragile repair.

clutteredchicagogarage
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But the Copper pipe is still rubbing against the Cast iron pipe .. So eventually the Same thing will happen ..

pmgolf
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I have a question would i be able to use the RIDGID XL-C KIT WITH A MILWAUKEE PRO PRESS MACHINE?

LuisPelayo-fezMx
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New pipe repair stil rubbing against the cast iron. To avoid copper pipe rubbing against cast iron, I was hoping you would use copper pipe to make a U bend using pipe bender to bend it and couple that with elbows on both sides

mpirokajosephmgcokoca
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I probably would have put 2 45s in there. Brought it off of the cast iron. Or put a metal separator. But otherwise O.K repair… but it will happen again in another 5-10 years if that..

Germ
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So you did nothing to move the pipe away from the drain pipe so that it will eventually leak again. Nice for job security.

terrybaremor
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Installer Should've had some Polyken tape 🤦🤦

conqwiztadore
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What a muppet. Left the pipes touching so the same problem occurs. A simple bend in the pipe means the problem never happens again.

kryptoniteee
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ok. you need to work on normalizing the audio between your intro and the rest of your video. the intro is too loud

ruthven