Bouldering Progression Series - Advanced | V7

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You’ve now entered the advanced grade of V7 and above. Crossing this threshold is typically reserved for the hard workers or the naturally talented. To be successful at this stage, your technique should be sound, but more importantly you have to be strong. This is where most people fall short and experience their first plateau. That’s why this video is focused mostly on the training components of climbing. We’ll take a look at exercises to increase strength, develop power, and finish with advanced techniques.

Intro: (0:16)
Strength: (1:19)
Hangboard: (1:40)
Frenchies: (3:17)
Power: (4:36)
Limit Bouldering: (5:03)
Campus Board: (6:11)
Advanced Techniques: (8:31)
Outro: (10:07)

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I'm 60 and just sent my first V7. I'm obsessed with body position and movement more than training strength/power and just try limit boulders a lot. Very fun!

jrblackify

Definitely still climbing V3/V4.. but had to watch the new movement for climbers video 🤭

VISUALefference

Some notes on the hangboarding:
- Always lower yourself controlled into the hang; loading the fingers should be gradual over 1-2 seconds, and you shouldn't be swinging at all
- Engage your lats, pull your scapula back, and bend your arms slightly (basically be at the same position you would be towards the bottom of a pullup). Using completely straight arms/relaxed shoulders can increase the chance of injury. It's less of a problem with only body weight hangs but becomes more dangerous as you add weight. This also allows you to keep your fingers vertically, whereas they may be loaded at a slight angle without bent arms, depending on the width of the hangboard.
- Always use chalk and ensure that your grip won't slip at all. This can load the other fingers instantly and is a common reason for injury on boards.

Labouchere

Worth noting that the training takes several months of regular practise to see many gains from, and can be hard to keep commuted to, so I found setting a training plan really helped. Maybe you could do a video on training plans/climbing routines? (aimed at that common plateau of V6/V7, where you need to train to gain :) ).

Leo-ryzh

After 7 months of climbing, I'm at v6-v7 plenty thanks to your channel

DaneFerolin

I absolutely love your teaching style. This series has been so informative and I'm stoked it's finally at advanced level!! Looking forward to incorporating some of these, especially the method you mentioned for limit bouldering.

JosephDiazClimbs

Very solid video. Been climbing for about 5 years and have climbing then bounced off the v7/8 multiple time with injury or pandemics getting in the way of getting past that. Just yesterday I sent my first v7 project since the start of the pandemic after getting back into a gym consistently (and a year of being a in a town without any climbing) and know I really have to work on my finger strength. My power, static strength and general technique is about 90% but my finger strength/trust in holds is probably 70-80% what I feel like I could be at so the hangboarding and campus boarding is going to be a focus for me.

JankyJymClimbing

Climbed my first v7 this week.
Was hard as hell but so happy.
Finally. 😊🎉

JuliusSpin

Sadly this is where most of my gym buddies have reached their last or most recent lengthy plateau that they can’t quite get out of. I hope to join them soon and work our way out of it. Just starting to get v6 sends indoors. Hang boarding regularly has helped a lot!

davidtorres

"If you're trying V7s you've probably been climbing for at least a year" sweats nervously in 7 years experience, 3 of them plateaued at 6/7

jacobeden

I like just watching you climb. Your content contains the best explanations on climbing that I've seen on YT so far, so I understand how it takes a while to make vids, but if you posted more frequent videos of you just climbing in between, I'd watch the shit out of those.

Mirrale

I just sent my first V7 within a year of climbing. The video was interesting and I wanted to see if it shared qualities with my 7. Precision commitment and generating strength out of a tiny box under tons of tension

minton

Another thoughtful, comprehensive approach to improving as a climber…the only thing that’s missing is the Midtbø-approved method of doing it all shirtless. This is far too tasteful

Farmybrat

This month I'm celebrating my 1 year anniversary of climbing, and I'm working on topping my first V5-6 boulder ^_^ I attribute a decent amount of my success to the wonderful videos on this channel. <3

MrPrinny