The Art of Solvent Welding

[ron]

This is one of the best Manufacturer produced videos that I've seen. Good stuff!

[jdr]

This is an excellent video. There are no other good videos reviewing cement characteristics and body. Thanks to oatey for putting this together

[larryseibold]

Thanks for this Doug. This is the best manufacturer directed video on PVC pipe assembly (solvent welding) that I have seen, and address several of the big issues in achieving high quality assemblies. In fact, this is the first time I have seen anyone mention the ASTM standard of the 15 deg bevel angle, which almost no one does. Deburring is not chamfering (45 deg vs 15), but is a lot better than nothing when it comes to scrape off. I have had several tense discussion with veterans that think that I am wrong and a novice for mentioning it, as they think that it is silly, and they have never done it (in xx years). I believe that it is the single biggest failure reason for PVC assemblies over ¾”. I use and like the DEB4, but will certainly check out the router and bit option in the future. The DEB1 is too expensive. That cone deburr tool is not a proper 15 deg tool.

Also, kudos on not getting even a single drop of solvent or glue on you. That in itself is truly impressive, even on a work bench.

Thank you for pointing out the common “orbital wrist” solvent and glue spread pattern mistake. Even as skilled as you are, you can see that even you did that on the 2.5” test piece. That speaks volumes for me to be extra careful.

I have one question. Why doesn’t there seem to be a slow set glue? This would fully dry in about the same time, but have something like 2x to 4x the open and hold times of rapid set. This would be exceptionally useful in the summer months in California, especially in direct sunlight. There are thin, medium and thick bodies glues, but apparently only fast setting, or very fast setting, particularly in the thin bodied which is the most common.

In my mind there are several times to keep in mind in solvent welding any parts, beyond just PVC. All of these times have a humidity and a temperature dependence.

1. Open time. This can be either the maximum time to be unassembled, or in many glues it is the minimum time to have the two parts open to the air to allow outgassing. I think PVC glues are governed by the maximum open time.
2. Hold time: This is the time that the two parts need to be held stationary under force (clamping etc) without any disruption or movement force to allow proper bonds to form, like knitting a broken bone.
3. Set time: this might be combined with the above hold time, but is usually the time to be carful with the assembled parts, but they can be moved and positioned into place with proper care. This time is usually in tens of minutes up to a few hours. I think you call this the cure time.
4. Dry time: Usually complete drying takes many days or years, and is a table or curve. Usually a time is reported when the part reaches a decent fraction of full cure, like above 65%, or suitable for 125psi.
5. Full cure is the time when the part assembly no longer gets stronger, and might start getting weaker (EOL). For many glues this is in years, and is rarely published.

[MrTeff]

I wish MY plumbers had watched this before working on my house.

[bretgreen]

Really good lesson here. Oatey is truly a great American company. Thank you.

[Anonymous-zvhk]

Great well-organized tutorial on priming, chamfering and welding together various types of pipe.

[hardlyb]

Great information. I think I used to know this stuff, but it's been years since I worked with plastic pipe, and in my practicing before I did things for real, I made every mistake you mention. Following your advice and I got great results.

[cophater]

nothing like the smell of oatey at 6 in the morning

[AttilaOrlovszki]

Great video. Here in Europe we glue mostly grey PVC.U . And gluing process is completely different. Solvent and cement is transparent, We apply glue inside first and is forbidden to twist. Glue brush is different too. Tangit recommends to apply glue along the pipe and not with circular move. Well, different world.

[fadofox]

Thank you, very nice informative video. only one thing. I was always taught to practice what I preach. I noticed when you demonstrated the joint assembly, you left the cap to the glue off to the side. after you told us to always place the lid over the hole. Not trying to be that guy but.

[flexibeauty]

Very informative and educational. Nice presentation. Thank you.

[AnthonySomes]

I have very little plumbing experience. I worked for a contractor that would go through and prime all of his fittings. Long before needed. And then reapply just before assembly. He got it works better that way. "Pre soften pvc" Sounds like this is n't a problem. It's just extra work?

[redeemhoodlum]

Thank you so much for your informative message.

[thecapone]

Amazing video!! Very very informative! Honestly it’s just nice to listen to as well. (:

[HelloWorld-yyfi]

Nice job on the video! QUESTION: When I began dry-fitting my PVC pipes, my son and I noticed that it was impossible to get some of them to "bottom out". The only thing we found to work was lightly tapping a block of wood that we placed over the circumference of the pipe or fitting with a rubber hammer. However, when we went to take apart all of the dry-fitted parts, it took both of us to separate them (a 3-inch wye fitting and street 45 were the worst!). So, here's my question: If the primer's job is to soften the surfaces, does that mean the pipes and fittings will be easier to join AND rotate 1/4 turn when it comes time to do the real gluing/welding? Does the glue cause the parts to slide into/onto one another more easily? I've watched SO many videos of pros doing these jobs, but 95% of them do not bottom out the pipe into the fitting, and just as many don't turn it one-fourth the circumference of the fitting. Could this be because they, too, are finding the pipes very difficult to bottom out and turn? My son asked me if we could lightly sand the pipe and fittings just enough so that we can push them together AND turn them 90 degrees when we finally glue them. I told him I'd ask you. Anyway, if you read this far, THANK you so much. I'm obviously not a plumber, but I am very handy and a reader of all directions!

[raneilalonzo]

Do the solvent/cement expire? I have some old ones in the garage that's still liquid. I wonder if they're still good?

[russellkeith]

Am going to glue pvc to abs both 3/4 inch ido i need to primer both pipes? thx you

[bigmetalglenn]

Hi great vid, so no sanding of pipe and I can put as much primer and glue on as I want and it will all dry in 5 minutes?

[mavirek]

Thank you for your tutorial, esp. the overview. Can you tell me which combo to go forward with? I have 2.5 bath condo in Central Florida with 3/4" white PVC pipes out on the porch for a water softener and filter. Lowes sold me: (Purple label) Primer and (Red label) All-purpose Cement. ACE sold me: (Yellow label) Clear Cleaner and (Goldish label) Regular Clear PVC Cement. I assume when I cut the connection to the water softener to remove it, that I will have two wet ends to dry with a rag, then join to re-close the loop. Am I using purple & red, or yellow & gold; or some other combination? Should I let the primer dry on the pipe before applying the cement? Can I use these (primer/cleaner and cement) in a situation where I have to screw a PVC adapter into a water filter housing that is plastic threaded, like the Culligan WH-HD200-C?

[FOXGUY]

15:18 takes a quick huff to see if it's still good LOL