Did Levi’s Jeans Quality Tank? 63 Year Old vs. Modern

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Levi 501's, the most iconic jeans to ever be sewn up, have changed quite a bit over the years! Today we are comparing vintage Levi 501 STF (they all were at the time) to modern Levi's and their LVC line. What is selvedge denim? Is that denim stronger? How do the jeans fit? How should they be sized?! That, and so much more, TODAY, on the raw denim history channel. I mean, Iron Snail.

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The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. (written by Taylor, though Michael is sometimes known to talk about himself in the third person… xoxo)
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Ok, I have been wearing Levi's 501s since around 1968 and probably have more than 100 vintage pairs. There are huge differences between 501s from different periods. But it mainly comes down to two things - denim quality and fit. Before the 2000s Levi's used the highest quality medium weight denim. That was because the jeans were being used as workwear and just like with rivets they needed to be durable. The cotton was very soft and comfortable on the skin. You shouldn't be distracted by redline inseams, they are for show and not related to denim quality. When they disappeared around 1983 nobody noticed. If you are searching for the best 501s you should be using 1993-1999, not the 1960s. The denim from the 1990s was the best. It was soft, heavy, flawless, faded great, and didn't twist. In the 2000s Levi's reduced the weight of their denim and began using inferior cotton that is rough on the skin. One thing in dating 501s is if the back pocket is double stitched or not. Levi's changed to double stitched long ago because it holds wallets in better and stops the pocket's edge from pulling away and getting wavy. Last thing I saw is after decades Levi's has gone back to single stitching the back pockets. The only reason I can think of is to save a little thread. 501s from before the 1990s had a higher waist and didn't fit as well as 501s from the 1990s, but all fit better than today's 501s which were loosened to accommodate heavier men. Mr. Snail needs to get his jeans at least 2 inches longer.

drwisdom
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I vote the Wranglers. After seeing you wear them in a lot of your recent videos, I'm getting more and more curious about them.

Origin
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Whatever you pick (next), I’m sure will be fun to watch.
This was great.

DMorgan
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Genius idea, I have always questioned this myself. Really valuable to know if people are just looking at the past through rose-tinted glasses as they say. Edit: Compare vintage to modern LL Bean, especially the sweaters! Vintage vs modern Brooks Brothers would be interesting as well.

NGS
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This is a brilliantly made video. OP should be really proud

itsbigcos
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Just ordered some selvedge denim Levis 501 with 23% hemp hope they're nice I got them on sale for 70 bucks

trystanfranziskus
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Bravestar denim just put on sale cone mill denim jeans. Short time only. 78.00. I ordered a pair. Very cool video. Love vintage.

shawnflynn
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They’re shorter than the tag size because they’re unsanforized! Hence the term: Shrink-To-Fit. Typically STF 501s shrink 1” in the waist and 2” in length but Levi’s from the 80’s shrink a hell-of-a-lot more.

musclebilly
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I have several pairs of Levi’s 501s and Wrangler 13MWZs from the 1990s that don’t come close to fitting because I’ve put on a few pounds. Ones of both that I bought last year—in exactly the same size—fit great. So vanity sizing is definitely a thing.

OTBMedia
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If you're young and have a 32" waist, almost any jeans are going to look good on you. However, if you're in your 60's and overweight then nothing at all will look good on you. I've always wanted a pair of the Iron Heart 24oz denim jeans, but at my age/size it'd be comical. So, sweatpants it will continue to be!!

sputumtube
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Love this video Michael!

I'll admit, I'm a bit of a Levi's gremlin down here; hoarding my 511s. I like higher quality denim, but I've never found jeans that work for me as well (and as easily) as my favorite 511s. So, I've historically just bought Levi's and called it a day. Good to know they're not 'total' crap! Lol

Any thoughts on a video on clothing adjustments? I've heard you making comments on getting adjustments made by your tailor before.

zfehnel
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excellent video, crazy thing with youtube's 1080p compression it looked like your mouth wasn't moving sometimes. switched to 4k and your mouth was indeed moving but something with the lower resolution, youtube was just guessing what you were doing in the bright light.

RibbyCribby
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Well, for what it's worth, my last three pairs of 501s croaked after a bit more than a year each, coming apart at the seams and/or ripping through at around the knees. I didn't wear them for manual labour, I wasn't crawling around in them and they are actually more on the lose side on me.

MoonfaceMartin
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Levi’s have cheaped out on ALOT quality, denim weight, selvedge most quality went out the window when they were being fully profit focused and moved overseas. Except Japan. They still make high quality, well crafted pieces. 🇯🇵>🇺🇸

ChiefSnoop
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When I was in high school (1969 - 1973), Levis where $8.50 a pair. Now most stores no longer carry the 501's.

kurtm
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How about vintage Gap jeans? Gap jeans in 80s were eclipsing Levi’s for a while. The fits were more modern at the time. Back in 87 I had a thick pair of bleached washed Gap jeans that were great.

strengthandbulkMadness
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Been using 501 since the 1970's and just bought 2 pairs (have at least 7 more) and the denim is not even close.

ManuelGonzalez-uevw
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Your Filson Mackinaw Work Jacket really rocks! Coincidentally I bought myself one in pine black plaid just a week ago 😉

lukasb
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Personally would love the Eddie Bauer jacket comparison to come first!

yosafat
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Levis, I bought in 1965 was going for$ 3.50 for denim and $4.50 for cords. I had to cut 2 lawns for a pair.

AmusedKelpie-tcdu