Project BYOB (Build Your Own Bass) – P Bass kit build and demo

One thing I didn't mention much in the video was my impression of the quality of the wood, hardware, and other components. I will summarize my thoughts below:
1. The maple neck looked and felt good, appears straight, and feels evenly radiused. The truss rod is also in good working order. The fretboard also appears to be evenly radiused. The frets are nothing to write home about, but they get the job done. As of posting this video, I am in the process of leveling and crowning them all to eliminate some fret buzz (and hopefully prevent any further buzz once I shim the neck to lower the action). The installed nut is cut all right; I'm guessing it's a synthetic bone of some kind.
2. The poplar body is cut well enough but the wood itself leaves something to be desired. Wood glue, grain filler, or some other substance appears to be on the surface in certain areas along the sides, and did not take the diluted ink stain well at all. This may not be a problem when painting, but it may impede a stain. (If staining poplar, I highly recommend a color on the yellow-green spectrum due to the natural color of the wood; red-brown wood stains did not look good on my sample pieces.) I was fortunate that it blended in somewhat well. And, of course, the neck pocket was cut too wide and deep.
3. The pickguard was not exactly cut to match the body cavity, so I had to position it in the best place possible relative to both the body cavity and the neck. The result is that a very tiny bit of the cavity near the output jack is not covered or concealed by the pickguard. It's not noticeable unless you look really closely from the player's position, though. Also, because of the pickguard's position, the pickup pole pieces are not exactly where they are supposed to be underneath the strings. This is a cosmetic issue more than anything, as it doesn't seem to affect the bass's volume or tone.
4. The pickup is pretty bright and punchy, especially with the included roundwound strings. I have no complaints about it so far, but it might not be every P Bass player's cup of tea. The brightness can be tamed with the tone knob, as you can hear in the sound demos. I imagine flatwound strings will also make the tone warmer without it sounding muffled.
5. The electronics do their job, although they were soldered incorrectly from the factory. It was nothing that couldn't be fixed, but just an annoyance when it's advertised as a "pre-wired pickguard." I guess it's okay since they didn't say it was pre-wired "correctly." Nevertheless, compare a pre-wired pickguard to a wiring diagram from Seymour Duncan or someone similar just in case.
6. Has anyone seen the bridge? Where's that confounded bridge? It's adjustable, which means the string action and intonation can be set. I had no problems doing this.
7. The tuning machines and string tree do their job just fine, as far as I'm concerned. The bass can be tuned and it stays in tune. That's all I care about.
8. The strap buttons also do their job. The bass stays around my neck, which is all that matters.

Final thoughts:
The bass is a bit neck-heavy, but I attribute that to the fact that a less-dense wood (poplar) was used for the body than for the neck (maple).
As I mentioned in the video, the neck needs a shim because the strings are too high off the fretboard even with the saddles lowered all the way.
The action at the first fret is also high, which means I may have to knock the nut out and sand it down a bit on the bottom, then glue it back in place.

The verdict:
It's a keeper!
I'm thinking of calling it Mean Green. No relation to UNT whatsoever.
Regardless, it isn't easy being green, but it would've been hard to be any other color.