Is your figure 8 knot going to kill you?

Will my figure 8 with a Yosemite finish kill me? Ring loading a figure 8 causes the knot to roll or capsize and while a standard figure 8 will just roll into another figure 8, the Yosemite finish gradually unties itself. But, is this really a concern? Ring loading is not that common of a use case. Rolling or capsizing occurs at low forces for loose knots. But, if you're going to clip your belay device to your figure 8, there's really no reason not to clip your belay loop at the same time.

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[HowNOT]

Oh btw... don't forget to finish tying your figure 8. That gets people too!

[dawntreader]

"on mountain project people are describes that website perfectly.

[michaelchandler]

This is one of your best videos. I appreciate finally having some answers about the Yosemite finish.

[huvrmedia]

"The problem with a knot that's easy to untie is that it unties easy. "

[AlmostHowIPlannedIt]

Ryan your storytelling and editing on this video is top notch, well done!

[mykolamelnychuk]

In many European climbing schools they teach to use 'figure 8' for tying into harness:
- well dressed and tightened, so it can be easily inspected even from 5 meters distance.
- the tail should not be much longer than 10-12 rope diameters (eliminates the issue of wiggling tail)
- no extra stopper knots (they'll make uncomfortable to slide the rope with hand), don't do macramé
The possibility for easy inspection is the main methodological reason why everyone uses figure 8 everywhere. This knot is not as strong, it doesn't like cross-loading, it's hard to untie. BUT it's so easy to visually recognize, that it makes all it's disadvantages miserable. No matter how comfy and strong your knot is, if your partner is confused by inspecting it. Not to mention educational benefits (having one standard, that works everywhere).

[Sunny-gtzi]

idk if intentional or knot, but after saying: "giving you a dressed figure 8" at 2:18 your figure 8 was not dressed. It was one move away from being dressed, this is a common form of the 8 that is mistaken for dressed, often, though not so much in this instance, the hardest to differentiate from a dressed 8.

[terrycalvert]

Bro I don’t climb I don’t use ropes or gear like you test on this channel only knots I tie are on my boots every morning but I have been watching this channel for over a year now and love watching you test this stuff and how you present everything to the viewer!! Awsome stuff man think it’s great!!

[ClimbingEasy]

I've never been so wrong. I will never do the yosemite finish incorrect again.

[thaddeustroyer]

Your mother says... "stay away from the danger hole"😂😂🎉🤣🤣

Had me rollin.

This has got to be one of your best videos. I love the detail and thought you put into this.
Great stuff!

[jimsmindonline]

Haha! I love this video!
I've always wondered about this. You explained everything perfectly for a knot geek!

Like you mentioned, the main problem is buddy checking, it's too easy to mistake all these variants. I prefer a barrel knot above but close to the 8, no chance of a mistake and easy to check.
+1 to the finish after the stopper knot, although again this makes it even more confusing for someone who doesn't know. 👍

[mikegibson]

That was a fascinating video. I tend to think that I know everything, because it seems that I have made all the mistakes. This video taught me that there was one more mistake lurking out there waiting for an ambush.

[thedolt]

Your in-depth research is very appreciated! Great channel!

[leighdickinson]

Here in the UK Ryan. I was always taught that you do a single, double fishermans bend or double lock knot in you rope tail end right up tight against the Bowline or Figure Eight tie in knots & they'll never be an issue of failure. That was almost 45 years ago & never heard or seen it failing in that time

[StayCHilL]

I never liked stopper knots so it's nice to see some (light) pushback against them. When I was teaching lead climbing indoors I had someone fail the test because he clipped his stopper knots instead of the rope on his first clip. He didn't realize until he tried to climb above it too...

[bt]

I’m excited for the Bowline video! Please test the double bowline with yosemite finish AND the rethreaded bowline (not the same as a double bowline).

I personally feel the rethreaded bowline is major overkill so I climb with the double bowline with yosemite finish (and sometimes a stopper after the yosemite) to prevent it from untying.

[HolmesHobbies]

I got into knots after seeing your spacenet vid from years back.

Now im halfway up a rope treehouse enjoying more science from this channel than expected.

Love your work!

[Raphioso]

In Germany the two currently recommended methods for tying in are:
1) a figure 8 with the correct length of tail (just follow the tail back through if it's too long)
2) a double bowline

I prefer the double bowline, not that much harder to tie, seems just as safe and much, much easier to untie for a heavy climber like me

[danielottesen]

Looking forward to the bowline video! I'm having a blast untying my single bowline with a double overhand stopper after one or several wippers

[alexanderfpv]

As someone who has never climbed anything with a rope, and don't plan on it - why do I like your videos so