Peugeot 807 EW10 hesitates when cold

preview_player
Показать описание
After cold start (~ +15 degrees C) EW10 engine stumbles at first attempt to rev up. From second attempt on works normally. What is the relatively noisy *TSUP* sound almost every time before engine starts to rev up?
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

Hi everyone, I'm happy that you are interested in the problem.
The problem is surely of an electronic nature, the defect arrives after 20 seconds from startup.
The valve problem is known, the engine operates at 3 cylinders, in our case it is an incorrect air / gas regulation.
The ESP system also adjusts acceleration through the Tbody, to decrease the power of the engine, for example on snow ...
I've changed many sensors, but nothing.
I read of some people who bought a used 807 and noticed that the sensor was missing. I think there is a kind of accelerometer to measure lateral forces.
I say this, because I happened to put the car on the ferry, where there
were strong vibrations and immediately the esp spy and the engine lost
power.
Unfortunately, my c8 is only used when I go home to the sea and can not do it in real time.

thank you all

giannim
Автор

Gianni M, I didn't saw the link that you sent before, but i saw that with my own eyes. Actually that is not a liquid.I was told that this is some kind of sealant silicone, that is used to prevent corrosion on the pins and entering moisture. I'm not sure about that but all of the three couplings had that substance.I already remove more of it because i use contact spray to check if there is some bad connection (not at all).

batkataaa
Автор

Speed sensor
That's what I changed and went fine 🙂 also changed the fuel filter.
Regarding the slow start when u drive u need to change I don't know the name in English but I think it's the pedal changing clutch 🤔 it's fit in between the engine & the gearbox

nassrkarammi
Автор

I also forgot to mention that i buy a PeugeotPlanet and lexia tester to check my car. I found that when i test actuator (throttle body ( test is to open it and close it from 0-100%) this make sometimes some strange sound like snore and the test says: Intermittent Fault, without any number for the error (just Intermittent Fault). Because of that i decide that maybe is the wires. Also i open the Tbody and clean the graphite surfaces (potenciometter) No result again...

batkataaa
Автор

My car still does this - I have "solved" the problem by letting the engine idle for a minute or two before driving. I change oil often (5w-40 FullSynth) and have used engine flushing products before last two oil changes. At least now with summer temperatures the hesitation is not as bad as before, let's see after a few months how the winter affects this. There are some hydraulic lifter additives available on local spare parts shops, maybe I'll try one of those products next.

Most certainly I'm not going to take off the head if anything else doesn't fail, it's just not worth it for a 2004 model with over 300K kms - especially since everything works perfectly when the engine is warm and even the annual inspection shows no signs of excessive emissions or anything like that.

markushamalainen
Автор

Update: I remove the engine head, fix valves and it's beds, change the tappets (lifters) all gaskets. the car is better when drive but the same cold start remain... if i push the peddal slow it is ok but if i push it harshly the car act like on the video...

batkataaa
Автор

Hi Markus, Same solution for me. I leave it to work idle 2-3 min until bad rough idle stops and then start. The bad thing is that in that 2-3 minutes engine spit unburned petrol in exhaust system. Before 2 weeks my rear one explode like rose. I was terrible BOOM and i'm afraid now when i change it with new one if it blow again... The car will go to a mechanic and will inform you if there is some results. And will explain what exact is done to help you resolving your problem.

Best
Toni

batkataaa
Автор

This problem happens to be a MAJOR headache for everyone. Luckily, there seems to be a solution. Apparently the Hidraulic Tappets are to blame for this problem. If you change the oil, with a 0w20 or 5w30, and the engine improves its response when cold, this means the tappets are the problem. The solution is to change the hydraulic tappets. Preferably use the ones from de 1.8 litre engine, ending once and for all with that annoying engine hesitation when it’s cold.

JuanPoliche
Автор

Gianni M, you wrote that some owners found that the sensor missing - which one you mention?

batkataaa
Автор

Hi guys,
there are any good news? I'm still fighting with this problem ...

giannim
Автор

Markus Hämäläinen
Say something. Did you fix that car or sold it out or burn it :)

batkataaa
Автор

Hi, no one can fix my car.
It seems that the problem is caused by the ESP or some sensor of this.
If I turn on the car, after exactly 20 seconds the throttle body moves irregularly and causes instability.
If you unplug the Intake manifold air sensor, the car works fine!
Do you have any news?

G

giannim
Автор

Hello,
have you solved this problem?
G

giannimarranghello
Автор

Yestarday i decide to give another try. I change the whole wires from the throttle body to ECU because i found that the old owner try to fix them. Maybe they where broken.After that i reset all adaptations. Clean the throttle body, MAP, temp sensor and inside intake manifold element. No any success.

You mean to remove the connector for MAP sensor that is mounted on the Throttle Body?
Why you think that ESP can cause those detonations, hesitations? It is stability control module?
Here the problem is with the air/petrol mixture. The car make detonations and smell like unburned fuel.

Before a 2 years i buy second hand Throttle Body and mount it. The car was perfect for 2 months. Every start i push the pedal fast and there was no choke, detonations, hesitations. Car was like new. But after 2 months it start to goes bad again. Change both throttle bodies again but no difference anymore. Maybe that was some accidental success.I also change the all MAP, air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs, everything.

Two mechanics that was pointed out for one of the best told me that those engines had a problem with valve clearances and valve beds.Also secondary air passages. And i must open the head, fix everything inside and mount it and the problem will disappear. But the repair is expensive and i don't think that is worth for 2002 car.
If i had some excess 400 Euro i can try to open the head and to resolve that problem for all people but i don't have free to throw.
I have also friend with the same car that have the exact same problem. No solution.

Let's chat here maybe someone can write come comment that will help us to resolve the problem.

batkataaa
Автор

Gianni M, ok at the end did you found some solution? Unfortunately those engines are too much complicated and i don't know why. The engine didn't give anything more then some other stupid mono - injection engine. 100 times more sensors, a lot of electronics and why is all about? Only stupid almost impossible to be resolve problems. I'm almost sure the the problem is more complicated - i mean it can be between 2 or more sensors, wires or other elements and you will be all the time in that magic circle... I also think that the head is possible option for that problem. But in that case after i change Tbody and the car was in perfect condition. I cant ignore that. Unfortunately today i change again the Tbody (cleaned) and again nothing. Seems like once you put working Tbody on that cat it loose its parameters and after that cannot be reset... I don't believe that that Tbody have some kind of memory or etc.. or write info in ecu... is it stupid valve ...(Expencive one :) )

I'm very very angry because i put a lot of money and nerves in that car. It is very comfortable but those problems deserve - scrap for that car.

Those days i had a message for ESP ASR fault
but it was caused because of low level brake liquid. I fill it up and the error go away.

Ok i will stop to write because my brain will blow out...

Im also happy that you answer immediately and came to the conversation.

I also have an idea. Lets make an appointment all together with our cars and to make a big ritual fire with them in cult of Peugeot.!

I can't believe that this happens... 4 years... and so much money for pseudo mechanics and great computer testers...

Thanks
Toni

batkataaa
Автор

Hello guys. I have the same problem with my car. 2.0 petrol 136hp. From 4 years i try to fix it without any success. I change everything in that car. Did you find some solution? At last it will be the head problem! Valve clearances, secondary air holes that are clogged and unfortunately they are inside head.I read in the net a lot and when i find the same problem like in my car there is no many comments and any solution :)

Bad bad engine.

By the way i bought a second hand throttle body and mount it. The car was perfect 2 months and after that start to go bad and now is in the same condition.
Change the old with new throttle body without any success.

I will ask you to answer me
Thanks in advance.

batkataaa