Harken Lazy Jack Kit Installation Video by Sailrite

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Lazy jacks are designed to contain and restrain a main sail when furling and reefing. The Harken Lazy Jack Kit uses a set of lines on either side of the main that attach high up on the mast and run down to the boom. The lazy jack lines then can capture and cradle the mainsail as it drops without falling on the deck. Lazy Jacks will not flake the sail but will hold the sail on the boom. Harken Lazy Jack Kit Installation Video by Sailrite gives step by step instruction on how to install a Harken Lazy Jack System. Harken Lazy Jack hardware attaches to the mast and boom with stainless steel pop rivets or stainless steel screws (included in Harken Lazy Jack Kits). The installation process is relatively easy and inexpensive compared to a Dutchman system because it does not require modifications to the sail (although full battens work better than standard battens).
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Great video. I plan on installing lazy jacks on my boat as I rig it for single-handed. However, a few tips on installation given my many years experience working in structures/sheet metal in the aircraft industry. When drilling in metal like the boom and mast, dip the drill bit in oil so you can bring most of the shavings with you out of the hole, especially drilling on the mast. Any oil left around the hole would assist as corrosion prevention, plus should the rivet ever got loose, black streaks will show around the rivet head rim, which will be very obvious. Also, use a drill stop, so the drill doesn't get pushed too far in and cause internal unseen damage. Depending on the thickness of the boom/mast, I would have used rivnuts instead of tapping the holes. When climbing the mast, similar as I used to be lifted to the vertical surfaces of aircraft (30-60 ft), use a lanyard for every tool you use (prep the tools before going up) to your working wrist. If that hand drill would have fallen, people could be hurt, and/or the deck core could be damaged. Other than that, good video and thanks for sharing.

javacup
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Oh Zac takes me back to our daughter's junior sailing days (oh man, wrong drill bit!)

jaymuller
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Stainless steel rivets aluminum mast. BRILLIANT!

richardryerson
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Haha, I have a thunderstorm going on at my place while I was watching this video. I thought I was hearing my thunder. I probably was, but it was being doubled up. Good job on the video. Very informative.

dongrahamleone
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Good Video. When we use a centre punch, one solid blow is all that is required. Multiple blows equals multiple indents.

JohnBobRoger
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Stainless steel is stainless steel. Monel is a copper nickel alloy.
Monel is easier to set than stainless steel... but use the same barium chromate (Duralac) paste. The kit comes with SS rivets so that is what we used.

SailriteDIY
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Handy system and well put together but make life easier for yourself by extending the handles of the riveter with a couple of lengths of pipe. You might need to knock the plastic grips off

geronimo
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Sailrite I like your videos because you always do things the smart way and the right way. That rigging tools bag however.... I loathe tool and screw bags that are black inside. Why make it so difficult to see? What I've done is to spray paint them with white Krylon spray paint. The paint soaks in and doesn't seem to do much, but if you shoot one pocket and not the one next to it, even that little bit is huge.
Second the bottom of that bag needs to be withing easy arm's reach, but I can see that where it hangs is best for times you're not reaching into it - so just put an easy draw cinch on the front strap. Pull on the cinch line the shoulder strap looses 8-12 inches, reach in. Then if it's in the way, release the cinch and let it hang.
There are three types of objects in that bag. Small stuff: loose rivets, drill bits, punch, templates; then mid-sized tools, rivet gun, screw driver, pliers, etc..., finally the cordless drill/driver - an odd shape. (It wants a holster, but that big battery would cause it to flop out of a harness. So come up with a better harness. One that the bit can stick out through a hole, the nose of the drill is snug, but maybe a gusset (funnel) to support enough of the rest of the tool so it doesn't flop out. A funnel like gusset also makes re-holstering so easy you don't even have to look. Also a safety lanyard for the drill/driver. Maybe something that a couple of rubber bands could hold against the handle. (even non-latex rubber bands get stiff and brittle after a couple months -so easy to replace. Or even a velcro loop.).
The small stuff, screws bits, punch. need to be in pouches with a clear window, or a good strong but not opaque mesh. White background, black mesh might work visually.
And that tape measure end. How about some kind of spring clamp that could hold the end of that tape measure, or a line or cable? Probably on the web strap in front - but out of the way of the cinch point. It doesn't have to be all that big. For a larger diameter line tying a piece of string to the working end should allow for a smaller clamp. Also if there's a 'horn' to loop the string around once or twice - then it will hold most of the weight.
This doesn't seem to be all that difficult a problem to solve. In most fix-it situations around a building sizes, shapes, amounts, etc change so much it's difficult to zero in.
And drillbits? The smaller they are the shorter their life expectancy. I figured, 'well this is the official video so....' I'd always go up there with a couple of bits. I think I've proved that if you only have one bit, it'll be dull or will break. If you have two, one will break. If you have three or more, they'll all work just fine for years. (Same thing with hats. On a trip I lost two hats in one week, they were cheap enough so I bought two. That was in 2016, I still have both). If you're interested in this but somethings are unclear, let me know-I'll be happy to share anything I can. I've learned a lot from your videos and know I'll be calling on you for help and rigging in the next couple of years.

WillNGo
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Thank you for taking the time to make this informative video. It made installation an easy task. Excellent product.

ginoe
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Using stainless steel on an aluminium mast/boom will cause galvanic corrosion so it's a bad idea (though must less so than aluminium rivit on stainless), if you do mix the two metals then DO USE the loctite, it will both stop the screw from working loose and also act as a barrier between the two metals to stop the galvanic corrosion. Mixing salt water aluminium and stainless causes corrosion to occur incredibly rapidly, not what you want anywhere especially on your mast/rigging.

macspud
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I am very green in the sail boat area and I actually needed to see this for I am making everything I have for a canoe, One tip the rivets can be more easily done if you just bite a little bit at a time and pull it in slow, the reason for just biting it a little you get the best leverage on it. Having the handle wide open all the way back the leverage is almost none existent hope that makes sense. Thanks for the video

zu
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Remember people to use something like Duralac and Tefgel when you mount stainless parts to Aluminium.

ceirwan
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Those kits are ridiculously priced for what you get, I've bought all the bits for mine for about 1/4 the cost & am basing it on Jiffyjax which obviates the possibility of snagging when raising the sail. I don't think two points of attachment along the boom is enough...

BreezyRider
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This might be a stupid question but wouldn't stainless rivits cause galvanic corrosion in the aluminium boom if water where to penetrate it?

koenkempeneers
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why use stainless rivets instead of monal?

ozskipper
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Use monel rivets, they are not causing corrosion. And put on some Butyl or other sealant to the holes so you won't have water leaking into your mast. Then, don't use oil to lubricate the drillbit because Butyl will not stick to oily surfaces. When drilling holes, use a depth stop on the bit, so you won't accidentally damage any lines or cables inside the mast when the drillbit pops through the mast wall. Use Locktite for the screws. And, seriously??? Get a heavy duty riveting tool!

youyouulf
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hey guys...where is the water;)?..and ...Thank you for the video
Greets from Berlin Germany..Jürgen

lutang
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it does not take a lot of time to sharpen a drill bit on the grinding wheel.

zu
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This is a 2 leg system! Doesn’t harken provide a 3 leg system or offer extra blocks and ropes as an option to modify it to be a 3 or 4 leg lazy jack system!

alialjazaf
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Tie those hand tools when doing work up high.

bizhanhooman