How to use a hole saw to cut metal with a cordless drill

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drilled two holes today through mild steel on a portacabin. I wish I had watched your video first. Thank You I learned a lot.

JulieLowe-wk
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I've been following you for years and always enjoy your videos. I bought (what looks like), that same Dewalt 3-speed hammer drill about 20 years ago and still use it sometimes - that was a quality machine! Mine came with a side handle which I highly recommend when using a hole saw to spare your wrist in case of a jam. I also find that if you run the drill at too low of a speed it can over heat the motor. The motor is designed to run at 18 volts so running it at too low of a speed can cause it to work harder, plus since the motor is fan cooled, the fan needs to be spinning at a good rate to move enough air to keep the temperature down. For long jobs, every once in awhile, remove the drill from the work and run it at full speed to cool it down.

Proer
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I’m so happy you told me it took a bit longer. I was going to say you are magic. I never get through steel that thick this quick.

mrseanpride
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This video helped me so much. I had ordered a metal media console from ETSY. They were supposed to drill holes but they did not. So I watched your video over and over and over again. Especially the torque. My drill was not as good as yours and I upped the torque and there was blow back on my hand so I put it back to the number that you stated. I ordered a Klein tool for the punch (did not work that well and danced on the 3rd hole that I drilled. I also purchased 2 in. Xtreme Tri-Cut Tungsten Carbide Hole Cutter and so glad I did. And some cutting oil. I have never did anything like this before and am so Thankful for your video. I watched it again just before I started and caught something that I would have done wrong. The Klein tip did not work as well your your punch too. This was the time when I wished I would have purchased a better drill. By the 3rd hole that I was working on, I was toast but I drilled slow and steady. :)

sterlinghawk_g
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For weeks I had been putting of drilling a hole through the housing of a heating unit. (I was a bit intimidated by the task.) Today I watched your video, picked up some lubricant and went to work on the housing. It went perfectly. Thanks for the video.

porzerbuddha
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He is forgetting the most important part of drilling with a hole saw. Every so often disengage the pressure and pull it out. Use a brush to remove the chunks of steel clogging the teeth of the saw.

jh
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Very nice instructional. My dad taught me basic things while I was growing up. He never taught me that, but your teaching method is just like his was. Thanks!

michaelm
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Hi nice review please let me know what is the spray u used on the metal what is the meterial

anilabbaraju
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Any tips on cutting with a hole saw in brass? I feel like cutting fluid doesn't work on non-ferrous metal

researchandbuild
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After your pilot hole is drilled and you’re ready to drill through, gently lower the teeth of the hole saw until they cut into the piece just enough to define the circle. Now drill a 3/8” hole inside your target diameter but right up to the outer rim of the hole you will be drilling. That will allow chips to drop down and lessen both the heat created from friction and the wear on the the teeth of the hole saw. Hope that makes sense.

ReadyUpGo
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While I regard myself as a better than average amateur mechanic, there is always room to learn. Following your method I was able to open up a clean 1 and 1/2" hole in the bottom of a steel, elevated fire pit. This will allow enhanced burning characteristics. Many thanks for your tutorial!

edeckbreth
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Cheers pal, saved my life again. Is there somewhere we can donate to you ?

GaryMcKinnonUFO
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Nice demo chez, i do exactly the same with the torque control when drilling large holes in wood with holesaws, and auger bits, it's better the twisting your wrists up if they jam.

StyXSISoriginal
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I'd like to comment that the torque selector, when driving in Phillips head screws, is also a great feature to prevent the slots in the screw head, as well as the tip of the Phillips driver bit (over time) from getting stripped once that screw is all the way in and not needing anymore applied power twist for the finish, as it will be indicated by the "you can stop now, in far enough" clickity clack clack sound of the drill.

SwarthySkinnedOne
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Great tips. broken many bits and hurt my wrist plenty of times. Thank you for the tips.

carelesswendigo
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A hole saw blade may grab when it first engages the material being cut often breaking the pilot bit. I dill the pilot hole first then engage slow and careful. But the most helpful tip is to install a 1/4" rod in place of the pilot bit. Drill pilot hole with a separate 1/4" bit, then use the hole saw with the rod as a pilot. It's alot cheaper than buying a buch of pilot bits.

donaldshimkus
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0:26 Hello, could you please share a link for ebay or amazon with that SCREW FX Cutting Tapper & Drilling Fluid?
I can't see to find it...
Great video by the way! Thanks

JoaoAmadoTV
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I do this quiet often, but never on a vise. I put a plywood underneath the sheet, and firmly clamp it down on a table horizontally. Its way more safe, way more efficient, and the lubricant also stay as it suppose to lube. On the half way down i flip the metal, and start form the other side. So i don't let the friction slowing down the process, i give less torture to the saw-bit and the drill as well.

Yes i know there will be a tiny rim in but thats not a big to get rid of it if its really wished.

dekurvajo
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1:10 other video show to put the machine on lower (not lowest) speed for smaller diameter holes, which is correct now ?

nirhawk
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Thx, what a differenc your advice made ... from failure to success in an important project I was working on ... right tool, wrong technique on my behalf! Thx again :)

BGittins