Great Climbs: Messner 1980

Review of the controversy surrounding the Habeler/Messner ascent of Mount Everest in 1978 and how Messner silenced all the trolls with his 1980 summit.

Covers the details of the route as told by Messner in The Crystal Horizon.

Fair use:

[alexkalish]

Anybody accusing Messner of lying about one of these climbs doesn't understand the man at all. This was the greatest alpine climb of all time by a wide margin. The route is difficult but very scientific as you point out. I admired his climbs of the most difficult routes in the alps years ago and he just kept getting better - a real master.

[frenchfree]

one aspect of messner's 1980 climb is that he discovered a window of weather during the monsoon described to him by yak herders. He timed his ascent for that. That in itself was innovative.

[lukycharms]

I can’t believe how invested I am in these stories as someone who is not even a climber haha. I love these videos

[chreinisch]

two Yetis met at the Himalaya, on said: yesterday I did see Messner.
The others response was: so he really does exist.

[edkiely]

For those who are maybe into diving into Messner a little further, I would also suggest watching Werner Herzog's film on Messner titled 'A Dark Glow Of The Mountains'

[SilverJ]

I can add nothing but my fascination, enthusiasm, encouragement and possible $ for photos to your endeavor, Michael! This is a great video! Thank you!

[davidd]

I really enjoy your videos, Michael! The logic and clear presentation of information is fantastic! Keep up the great work!

[papiyon_]

thanks for clearing this up. Free Spirit is one of my favorite books which got me into climbing when I was younger.

[wakeizland]

An amazing accomplishment for Messner, but I still think Mallory and Irvine would be the greatest Everest climb. Messner knew he could do it, having already done it in 1978 with Habeler. Mallory and Irvine were trying to do something which had never been done before. Messner also looks to have boots and cold weather climbing gear far superior to what was available in 1924.

[kvpc]

Superb video and narration...and the nice glass of Chianti/Silence of the Lambs reference is certainly not lost!

[pauloalvesdesouza]

Fantastic video. As usual you put the light upon the mistakes and lies bringing forth the hard facts.
Thanks for your work.

[roryryan]

What a lovely channel ; informed, concise, damn interesting

[robertmacdonald]

Hands down no doubt about it. The greatest climb ever. A bold daring completely solo up the highest mt..A simple concept. Amazing

[whoppingliar]

Michael, first thanks for your videos they are both well researched and informative.
To address the question of Messner's relationship with the Sherpa's I would like to put forward an idea (although I will clarify it is based just on my own speculation and experience with "strong personality's").
For most Western climbers Everest would not be possible without the Sherpa's. Mallory himself relied on them to carry the oxygen to the higher camps. They have been an integral part of every expedition, there strength and ability at altitude is some thing no one would question. Now from their point of view it must be a source of pride to be the lynch pin in so many attempts on the summit.
Ask ourselves this question, there is a man who doesn't need your help or your expertise and surpasses you in ability (you have lost that lynch pin role ). Coupled with the fact that this man knows it. How would you treat him?

[joebikeguy]

Quite a few years ago I became fascinated with Messner and read a fair bit and watched some documentaries, (they may still be on YT?). Nonetheless, I learned some things here I did not know. Very nice writing, research, editing and presentation. Thanks!

[michaeltracy]

Comments will be open for community discussion. Unless your original comment starts with "Michael:", I will generally not respond and will let other community members reply.

There are plenty of people up to speed on these issue who are familiar with the literature and the topography of the mountain. So, I'll let you discuss the issues and work them out on your own. If you feel there is something that truly requires my attention, then please feel free post it.

One point to discuss that it not directly addressed by the video is why Messner and the Sherpas were at odds with each other. Was it just that Messner was difficult? Or was there something about what Messner was saying that they didn't like?

[jackharle]

Climbing for spite, the most pure of all motivations (I'm not being sarastic).

[edkiely]

To know what Messner is made of, one just has to know how he responded to the news from Elizabeth Hawley that Naiomi Uemura had already secured a permit to solo Everest in the winter of 1980 before him. From the moment Messner received the news, he had ambiguous feelings with regard to Uemura; nothing personal mind you, but he could by no means ALLOW Uemura to be the first, so he set his mind working on how to out manuver Uemura to do what Messner says is the pinnacle for a climber. In the 'Crystal Horizon' he states, "There is more to it than mere mountaineering: after the failure of the expedition to Ama Dablam I'm eager to push myself to the limit. The highest mountain in the world, in winter, alone- for a climber that is the absolute high point."

[Bear-on]

Obsessed with Messner .yep .I admire him greatly.legend is a word too often used.

[Ronin]

Chianti is always a great choice, but I get a headache from it. I went with a nice German, Mosel, Eis Wine, I hope you can forgive me. The summit photo of Messner is simple, but remarkable. Thank you, Micheal, for this video.