Soundstream T5 Tarantula Subwoofers - 10' / 12' / 15' - 1300 Watts Ultimate Bass output!

The Tarantula T5 series subwoofers offer incredible bass output for your vehicle. The subwoofers offer insane output and a ton of XMAX to provide the most bass output possible. The Soundstream T5 Tarantula subwoofers are available in 10", 12" and 15" with dual 2 Ohm or dual 4 Ohm voice coil configurations and handle 900 watts RMS for the 10 inch, 1,000 watts RMS for the 12 inch and 1,300 Watts RMS for the 15 inch. You can bet that they're going to bump in your car....

Features:
10" / 12" / 15" DVC Tarantula T5 Series Subwoofer
900 watts / 1000 watts / 1300 watts RMS
2 or 4 ohm voicecoils
Overcompensating Motor Structure
12mm T-Yoke & Top Plate
Non-Magnetic Non-Resonate Die-Cast Aluminum Frame
3” 4-Layer Voice Coil w/ Direct Connect Wire

Purchase Soundstream T5 Subwoofers from US:

Purchase from Amazon: (Paid)

Car Amplifier Installation Kits

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[christophermozeleski]

I have the 15 and I'm really happy with it.
It's being powered by the Soundstream RN1.3000D amp.
This sub moves.

[Deron_SLATER]

I had the 2 12's and WOW the best ever for the price tag!

[jonhunter]

I have been rolling around with Kicker Solo Barics L7's 12's with the 3600 watt cxa 1800.1 mono block d amp in 2ohm for the past 4 years and have never had a problem with it till now! The Amp finally gave after upgrading to the top model. Only had it for a year before the rumble finally gave out. I've never been totally satisfied with the beat because I had some playa haters wire my charger. One day I was researching soundstream products and thought to give it a go. So I went all in with the tarantula t5. 152's and paired it with the txp1. 12000d amp wired in 0 gauge and it sounds like KING KONG COMING AROUND THE CORNER! 😆🤣

[chakireladraoui]

Good my friend I'm happy to watching your videos thank you

[Jamez]

QMV please do a video on the X series of soundstream subs. I would love to see an in depth video on those monsters

[onemantwohands]

I have a 12 that's blown now, but very keen to recone it as I love this sub, it slapped for about 4 years

[insanebarz]

These look nice but you do a video on the DB Drive WDX subwoofers and the new G7's coming out next year please

[drewcarr]

How do you wire the T5-15 dual 2 ohm to 1 ohm since it has the leads and not push terminals?

[custard]

One of my favorite subs including the r1 and the new X5 12 #CUSTARD310

[jayezy]

Subwoofer are awsome 🥰. I have an unrelated question, I'm new to the car audio scene and wondering if I could get some advice on an idea. I have a 12" Kicker VR, 400watt rms dual voice coil at 4 ohm. I plan on getting a Taramps 400x4 to power it. The issue is that the amp is rated at 2 ohm on the 4 channels at 100watt each or 4 ohm bridged down to 2 channels. Wiring the sub in parallel will give me a 2ohm resistance and single channel on the amp will only power the sub at 100watt at a 2 ohm rating, wiring the sub in series for an 8 ohm load will give even less power in single channel. Ideally I like to drive the sub at 200watt atleast. My question is, if the sub is wired in parallel at a 2 ohm load and bridged to channels 1&2 or 3&4 at a 4 ohm rating on the amp, isn't that bad for the amp? Wont it likly go into power protect if I put a 2 ohm load on a bridged 4 ohm connection? And if not, I doubt I'll get 200watt from the amp with that connection.
I had a thought as I had seen in a video that dual voice coil subs are technically like having 2 subs in one. That idea was to run 1 voice coil which is 4 ohm to channel 1&2 bridged at 4 ohm providing 200watt and run the second voice coil to channel 3&4 bridged at 4 ohm providing another 200watt which would match the subs rated 400watt rms. For the audio signal, I had thought to use a rca splitter from the head unit ch1 to split the signal to the amplifier channel 1&3 or 2&4 to get the same signal to the bridged channels of the amp going to each voice coil. Does anyone have an idea if this is even remotely feasible?

[mattadkison]

On a bet I bought one on ebay, dude bet I couldn't beat 3 jl w3 10s in hes single cab s10 build a big ported box 3.2 cubic ft square port tuned to 33htz. Got him by 2.3 db in the lanes 7 years ago. That sub still aging today in the same box. Me n that sub been through it. I made money off just poppin the trunk cuz someone swore id have 2 12s or 2 15s. Its withstood the test of time and abuse that b!*$h aint no joke. That thing is a beast on a budget. It won't let u down if u run it on the power recommended. And a little more here n there.

[jacobhaussmann]

Ive got an old t4-15 it takes 2250 watts fine for an old sub

[gummygreen]

This seemed like an add was it supposed to be?

[jessiesookraj]

Bro im getting a 8 inch with 1400 watts

[simpleitaliankitchen]

what happened to this channel? very little activity

[brooklyn_autumn]

Question please.
So I replaced a couple of door speakers with some JBL's (sounds great) and then I move a factory speaker to the back of my Mercedes-Benz Sprinter.

It worked, but then I noticed at higher levels, my JBL's were popping (distortion) with base. I was sooo mad. I didn't know why because when I first installed the JBL's the day before, they worked great.

I noticed tonight, that the factory speaker that I moved to the back cargo area, it was partially blown and actually came apart. I disconnected it (going to get a new one), and I noticed my JBL's aren't sounding distorted/popping at louder volumes.

Will (1) blown speaker cause other speakers to pop/distort? That's the only thing I can conclude. I've never seen it happen before.