Pedal Calibration Problem With My Thrustmaster T500RS.

Much thanks to anyone with a solution.

[MikeSwannick]

The solution to this type of issue is frequently is to recalibrate the pedals as pointed out by other comments. The essential points to remember when under going Thrustmaster recalibration is:

1. Power off and disconnect the USB plugs. It only requires a few seconds but give it 15s to be sure.
2. USB reconnect IN THE SAME USB SOCKET IF POSSIBLE and power on
3. Stand clear while the wheel does its rotational calibration
4. Start the Thrustmaster software calibration tool - DON'T TOUCH THE PEDALS!
5. In the menu select your Wheel device and click 'Properties' - DON'T TOUCH THE PEDALS!
6. You should see the screen showing all the button, wheel rotation and pedal bar options AND the pedal bars should be at the 50% green position - - DON'T TOUCH THE PEDALS!
7. Only when you are ready to calibrate the pedals, push each pedal in turn through its maximum travel and hold it at 100% for a second or two. Gas and clutch first as they are easy.
8. If you have any kind of brake mod fitted that reduces the travel of the brake pedal, holding the new 100% travel position is critical to allow the correct recalibration of the pedal. What you will see on the screen as you press the brake and increase the pressure against the mod is the green bar slowing down to stop before it reaches the top as the effect of the mod stops the pedal travel. Holding the final position for a second or two during recalibration sets the 'new' 100% position and you will suddenly see the green bar shoot up to 100%
9. Your pedals are now recalibrated.

Why reconnect to same USB socket? Some sims will only load the mapping assignments for the wheel and pedals if it finds the same USB controller device (ie your wheel) connected to the same USB port when the mapping took place. This may be responsible for sims like AC not automatically loading your wheel settings.

Why the emphasis on not touching the pedals before you have to? Because if you idly dance on your pedals after you have powered on or reconnected your device, you may well be undertaking the recalibration procedure by accident and not correctly.

Potentiometer problems manifest themselves in the calibration software in the following ways;

The green bar still showing a few % movement when the pedal is fully at rest
Jerky increase in the green bar despite a fluid increase of pedal pressure
Not reaching 100% despite the full depression of the pedal

If you see one or more of your pedals green bars jumping about like it's being tasered, that can be solved usually by a power down and disconnection of the wheel and a restart of the PC.

Keep your pedals clean. They accumulate dirt and dust like crazy. Despite the pedal potentiometers being in a closed plastic box they still get enough dirt in them to require cleaning with electrical contact cleaner.

[Lt_Dan]

It is a calibration issue, i had the same problem. You need to unplug both - the usb and the power connector from the base - and leave it until you see the light on the transformer go out, thats really important. It costs me 3 hours, to solve this problem. It was not the potimeter. I was surprised, because I wanted to buy a new Ponitmeter at THRUSTMASTER. Thanks @ JULIAN R. Thank you so much, mate.

[xMALONYx]

Maybe you need to disassemble the pedals and clean it from the dust and make sure that the potentiometer is set on the 2nd tooth for each pedal .. also try calibrating on the TM control panel before you fully assemble it to make sure everything is right as it should be.

[mr.upshift]

I have the Problem that the (in F1 position) clutch is not giving me 100 % but about 90 and it's very unstable help pls

[rayvandenbosch]

I have a tgt. It has a weird thing where when first turned on and starting a lap in f12020, the brake pedal doesn't register 100% brake travel until I have done a couple hard pressed and then it comes good. Now it has been changing mid race the calibration setting for the brake travel. Weird.

[scottraines]

Same with T/150, GT Sport, PS4. Calibrated them on PC, plugged into PS4, went right back to dead zone at beginning and end of both pedals. Feels like I'm only using two thirds of the pedals' travel. Put a screw into the frame behind the pedals. Use the head of the screw as the new "stop". Not a perfect fix, but at least now when I lift, I'm actually lifting.

[diegovillavicencio]

Same problem here with my Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition. Mine was actually working perfectly for around 10 months, now I'm having this problem

[axelode]

For me, the brake and clutch pedal on my t3pa goes from 0-100% with just a tiny bit of presure. had the same problem with my old pedals too on the same wheel.

[careditor]

Man I am spending more time resetting these pedals than racing. My throttle is now my clutch using my left foot to accelerate and my throttle is my clutch. Don't even ask my how this happened.

[WeTheScourge]

So, long time has gone now, and i never really did any effort to fix this. But i realized that it's not a calibration problem. It's a factory standard. I've now tested 5 different T500RS Pedals, which all have the same fault on all three pedals. 5/5 has the same issue. So my advice would be to spend some time, trying to be creative on how to stop the pedal 3% earlyer, because this is common or standard with these pedals.

[bl_sky]

Hy, my problem is whan I push all for the gaz, in the game is just 50% . Help please . Sorry for my english

[tintogranreserva]

Edit: Mine does the same. It has a lack at the end. Couldn't fix it with adjusting the potentiometer.

(Have you tried to "synchronize" the potentiometer with the pedal? I did change the torsion springs from my break pedal and disassemble all pedals to inspect them. Had some issues with a late throttle reaction and had to adjust it. There is a small black plastic cylinder with some tooth just on one half which contacts the tooth from the pedal. Hope it works)