Panzermeister's 'Definitive Review' of TAKOM StuG III Ausf.G Early Production (BLITZ line #8004)

Today will be my long-awaited review of Takom's recent release -- the StuG III Ausf.G Early Production (kit no. Takom 8004).

SUMMARY:

As part of their Blitz line, this kit is meant for simplified assembly that can be done in a weekend, maybe even by a beginner. That is true for this kit, without sacrificing much detail (apart from the tool clamps looking a little weak). The link-and-length tracks and minimal PE also support this quick build idea. However, the kit includes 5 small PE parts which are tricky to fold, especially for beginners...but you could always just leave them off :)

The kit has great weld detail, crisp bolts and rivets, a one-piece barrel, and the included PE vents and copper tow cable are excellent. Fit is overall perfect, with the exception of the wheels (7:29) and gun barrel (26:31) having some interference that is easy to solve with a little sanding or trimming.

A few points in the instructions show putting on parts in an order that I would not recommend. For example, in Steps 4-5 I would recommend assembling the rear armour (M33, M17, M13) in Step 5 first, then mounting the PE vent (TP1), and then putting on the parts shown in the bottom half of Step 4. And in Step 8, when mounting the tow cable, do it AFTER putting on the S-hooks (M9+M10) and fender supports (M58, M35).

I have a few other tips, like the front half of the loader's hatch should prop open the loader's MG shield, and in the last step, it's much handier to glue part N11 onto the roof, not onto the superstructure, as gluing it onto the roof makes it removable so painting the gun is easier.

In terms of historical accuracy, the kit is on par with Dragon 6320 as it is overall quite good, but gets a few minor things wrong. These include the wrong type of rear light, underscale smoke launcher barrels, a missing tow point on the rear hull, and a slightly incorrect cupola (as historically, these early vehicles had the cupola assembled wrong in early 1943). These are minor, so you don't have to worry about them as the kit builds up into a beautiful early StuG III G!

On my build, I fixed the historical errors, added some detail by replacing the kit tool clamps with 3D-printed MJ and plastic ModelKasten clamps, and I also added some small PE chains. In addition, to model a battle-damaged vehicle, I added a resin damaged wheel and dragon empty spare wheel holders.

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DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.

[Panzermeister]

Sorry, there seems to be a little confusion with regard to my fix for the wheel fit issues.

I did not trim the rods off entirely. The inside half of the wheel has about 90% of the rod length molded on, while the outer half of the wheel has about 10% of the rod. These rods are together too long and interfere when the wheels are assembled, so I just trimmed off the 10% rods from the outer wheel halves only, leaving the inner wheel with the 90% rods. This fixes the fit and you don't notice the missing material.

At 8:27 I showed two examples of the outer half, one with the 10% rod still in place (left) and one with that material removed (right). I'm NOT showing an inner and an outer half there...just two outer wheel halves. Remember, don't trim the rods on the inner wheel halves.

>>> Most clearly -- if you have the instructions in front of you -- just trim the rods from all parts A11 (outer wheel half) and leave the rods on parts A16 (inner wheel half). <<<

[monkeyinapanzer]

This is something I’m very much in favor of. We already have plenty of kits with crazy high parts numbers with super complex builds that still end up being full of inaccuracies anyway. A lower cost kit that is “good enough” is something I really hope sticks around.

[DerKurfuerst]

In times where dragon kits even on sale cost a fortune those takoms really are a gift

[notpopeye]

I'll start off by saying how grateful I am for this video!

My wife knew that I wanted to get back into modeling after a very long hiatus, so she bought me this kit as a birthday gift. While a great kit - all-in-all - there's no way I would have been able to finish it without your tips and suggested changes.

For others, here are a few of things I ran in to while building the kit:
- Wheels. I had exactly the same issue assembling the wheels. However, not having the best set of clippers, I had to use a file to file the longer lengths down to a length that allowed the wheels to fit together.
- Photo-etched parts. Took me quite awhile to fully understand that the small flash piece (labeled as TP6 in the instructions) was meant to stand on its edge against the deck trim. And as you recommend in the video, I simply skipped the rear flashing (labeled as TP4 and TP5). I simply couldn't get either piece to lay flat.
- Vents. Contrary to the flashing, no real issues with the vent grating (labeled TP8 and TP9). However, I did have an issue getting their associated "brackets" into place, which go over the vent grating (labeled as M62 and M63). Post-build, it seemed as though you could probably put the vents themselves into place (M6 and M7), then the brackets, and then slide the grating into place.
- Barrell. Same fit issue, which I discovered the hard way, and then realized you tried to warn us. Also, I inadvertently snipped off the piece that fits to the barrell end (N7 to N14), thinking it was part of the sprue. I was still able to simply file and glue on, and it obviously made aligning everything a LOT harder.
- Casement. I only got a fair fit on the casement, attaching it to the hull. Smallest bit of daylight on the forward, right side.

Like I said, all-in-all a very enjoyable build. But for this being my first build in well over a decade, and possibly my first tracked vehicle EVER, absolutely challenging and occassionally nerve-racking.

Thank you for helping guide the way!

[peterstaklis]

A great detailed review. I just bought the Stuh 42 Stug 3 G late Takom kit so I'm sure your review will provide all sorts of tips when I build it. Honest build reviews are the way to go but take more effort so thanks for putting in the time.

[jerryvolpini]

A build review is just so much more useful then an out-of-box review! Great job 💯

[americafirst]

Being a Stug lover i appreciate these in depth reviews as i also like to be historically accurate in my builds and two things i missed in my early Stug G and also the tow point i missed. Thanks for this fine review.

[TheModelGuy]

In three hours I have about 50% of this tank done. Nicely detailed and solid fits. Getting ready for the speed bumps you noted

[Sprue_and_Glue]

What a timing. I just ordered this kit an hour ago. I 'll be watching your review now 😀.

[georgewelch]

Evan, the level of detail you put into your build reviews really sets the standard. Combined with the history you provide, it really gives the modeler choices about how best to approach a kit.

[trevoratchison]

Thanks for one of the best build reviews and explanation of how to do some of the easier ways of building the stug

[johnreeve]

I've just started building this kit for my local IPMS Club group build and this video has been an extremely useful and interesting starting place. Thanks very much for this well put together video.

[jlcotton]

Your attention to detail is awesome Panzermeister. 👍🏾

[Modkits]

I think it’s important for both non-rivet counters and rivet counters to respect each other’s choice of a realistic model or not realistic. :)

[garylawless]

A great build review! I personally love the Takom Blitz’ kits, as they offer excellent detail and are a simplified build. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Cheers from Australia!

[ianmacaulay]

Excellent review. I like how you summarized the changes to make it more accurate. Looks like a really fun build.

[HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

That is some very valuable information! Seems like Takom got it quite right, at least in comparison with other brands out there. I like the modifications you made to improve the kit a little bit further. The mine damage is a cool feature of your model.

[brucethemodelnoob]

Awesome review. These kits are dirt cheap relative to Dragon, and accurate enough for most folks. Thanks for putting in the effort to give us such a detailed examination of the kit.

[thomasharrison]

New subscriber to your channel and recent returnee to plastic armor kit building. I want to say thanks for this review of the Takom StuG III along with building tips. I’m working on their StuG III Ausf. G Late Production Blitz kit which is almost the same build. I’m was ready to proceed with steps 10, 11, and 12 which is the assembly of the upper deck details, but was slightly puzzled with the tow cable placement, above or under the other parts. Luckily, you addressed that very issue and saved me from going down the wrong path. Additionally, I like the method you tried out with the tracks and road wheels all put together as one assembly but not glued to the hull for easy removal to weather the hull. I will try that out on my next build.

[Tankbrusher]

Very good information (as I had expected : ) That's a Kit a for me, don't like getting drowned in parts and having open hatches with nothing behind it. Thank you Evan!