Could The CHEAPEST 3D Printer Bed Probe Also Be The BEST? Everything You Need To Know About Klicky

Is it possible that one probe could be both the best performing and the most economical? The Klicky probe might just be! In this video I examine this novel stow-and-go bed probe and provide a full walkthrough on assembly and firmware configuration, using the Troodon 2.0 3D printer as a test case.

Copy & Paste Snippets:

Klipper Klicky Install:

cd ~/klipper_config/

Klipper Klicky AutoZ:

cd ~

[ygkd]

IMPORTANT: @5:07 when I show the order of wires, I have mixed up the labels for power and ground. The ground wire is blue and the power wire is brown. The correct ordering is shown below, from left to right, with the connector facing towards you (as in the video).

Klicky PCB: Power (Brown), Signal (Black), Ground (Blue). Extruder PCB: Power (Brown) Ground (Blue), Signal (Black).

[nc]

What a thorough breakdown on implementing a clicky probe.
I really love your video style.
Thanks for featuring my Repo!
Hopefully everyone can see just how easy and effective RepRap/Clicky setup is.

[mkhmkh]

The detail of this is amazing! Thanks for putting in all the effort.

[LibertyEver]

I love printing TPU on glass. It's very reliable and there is no mess (glue stick, etc.) or fuss (removable flexible print surfaces, etc.) Klicky is clever but the one bed probe option you didn't mention is using the nozzle to probe the bed and using force sensors under the bed to detect the nozzle contact. This seems to have all of the advantages and none of the disadvantages. The bed and nozzle can be preheated so they're directly probing in their heat expanded state. The actual nozzle and bed height are probed relative to each other without introducing the error of a Z offset for the nozzle relative to a separate probe. There is no added hardware on the hot end to add weight that decreases print speed and no need for the complexity of a dockable probe sensor. Klicky is clever but I'd rather add force sensors under the bed so I can directly probe with the nozzle.

[AndrewAHayes]

I have run tests between a few different types of probes over the years and the difference in accuracy and repeatability was not very much and they were all capable of giving me a good usable mesh, I have stuck with the BL Touch on some machines and stuck with the stock Pinda on my Prusa MKIIIs

[dagamore]

thanks for including all the links to everything makes following/duplicating the work soo much easier.

[coltenmeredith]

Very good video! I dont have a Troodon, and I didn't plan on getting one, but I can tell alot of effort was put into this video

[potatomeatlabs]

This was already done, it's called the Euclid Probe. Heavily documented and well supported, same magnet idea as well. Someone said the third wire isn't needed, but it definitely is. GND, +5/12/24V, and Signal. Having a dedicated signal wire means it's possible to detect if the probe hasn't been successfully deployed/picked up at the dock. Having just +5V/12V/24V means you have a floating signal when the switch is open, which can pose problems with certain boards not configured with an internal/on-board pulldown.

[Jkauppa]

a led optical radar reflection amplitude voltage would be the simplest, you also get the current distance, of the print bed and the print head, well light attenuates over air at inverse of the square distance. ironically it can be detection of the usual illumination led light, add a second led to the print head.

[atom-x]

Tank you for this another great Tutorial on Troodon v2.0.
Not very simple for the beginner to understand (frenchy guys😅) but step by step it s work ! thank you man

[marclevitt]

It's a very informative video. Excellent work! Here are a few constructive criticisms.

1. After three errors in the dialog, I suggest a re-record instead of onscreen corrections. I know it's extra work, but for something this information-dense, you add a lot of unnecessary extra confusion.
2. I would consider separating Kilipper and RepRap configurations into different video chapters so people can skip what they do not need. Going back and forth between the two firmware versions gets confusing.
3. Adding an overlaid outline that shows all the steps with highlights on each step as you complete them would be excellent. I’ve seen you do many onscreen graphics in previous videos; it is within your skill set.
4. Include that same outline as a PDF with live links in the video description. It would make a big pedagogical difference.

For me, these suggestions would be challenging as I am not as skilled of an editor as you are. You have the chops to add these and further improvements.

P.S. Slow the cuts a bit when showing screenshots of code replacements. We can pause, but consider the shot you go to; perhaps that B-roll can wait.

[spindlywebs]

fun fact it was originally called the quickdraw made by an annex member, a voron member accidentally took it then someone else proper took it, added a magnet and called it klicky

[PCPointerDE]

I am curiouse if this would also work for a LDO Voron 2.4 RevC. I used the RRP configurator for the first steps and want now to include the Klicky probe. But most of you configuration files are a little bit different from mine :D

[oscarvogel]

I've heard the rubber booty needs to be removed from the actual probe tip area or it can mess with readings.

[redline]

I can’t figure out why I do probe calibrate save config I get an z offset must be specified??? Huh? Why klipper why what does your error mean

[Honza]

Is it a simple way to add filament sensor on Troodon 2.0 print head (without need to unmount cable chain)? As fillament sensor is far from printhead and if filament breakes somewhere in middle of tube, printer stil prints - air. Thank you.

[urgon]

For this money I've got a knock-off B:-Touch probe that uses an electromagnet and Hall effect sensor. The only problem with it was the fact I had to make my own cable and replace connector on Ender 3 V2 board. And I had to design my own mounting piece as the available design didn't quite match the lenght of probe...

[bginvestor]

I might be missing something, but your wiring on the XH2.54 connector to the PCB clicker board does not seem to be correct. On the Github page, it states, "Double check wiring, make sure you've connected your wires correctly to the probe. With the probe installed in the toolhead, they should be Ground / Signal / +V going from back to front. " This means your ground and +V should be switched.

[redline]

Current project for me right now what was the spacer for the auto z endstop 3mm more? I might just order a 30mm but it will take some time to come I bet. Great guide as always.

[sugdenc]

Any plans to do a session on going to TAP for mesh level on tge Troodon 2