SB Chevy Hydraulic Valve Adjust 101

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Quick fool proof way to set the valves on your Small Block (and Big Block too) for initial start up.

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If he’s smoking the butt of a cigarette with his hat backwards, he knows what he’s talking about

smoothpotato
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That 1/4 turn rule is golden. I installed valve stem seals on my '88 Formula Firebird years ago and went by the book, I think it said 3/4 turn, and the car ran so bad I couldn't drive home because the valves weren't closing. I ended up cutting the top off an old valve cover so I could adjust the rockers with the engine running and not get oil everywhere. Kids these days have it so easy with Uncle Tony telling them all the good stuff without having to learn in the hard way!

DomainDuSac
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Your channel has exploded. I Really enjoy watching.

toddselph
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This looks awfully familiar! haha.. Great vid bud.

ViceGripGarage
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i was one of the thousands that caught the scammer video & these past few days i’ve been hooked. as a 19 y/o looking to start with this stuff you bring a wealth of knowledge & charisma that i never could’ve asked for. keep up the good work uncle t

nismonolo
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My Suburban wasn't firing up after the engine rebuild. I followed other videos advice and nothing. I found this one. I pulled the valve covers did everything you said to do and the first crank after it fired right up. THANK YOU !!!

garymobbs
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Uncle Tony, I'm in the midst of building a 78 Malibu W/ a small block 350, and you're how-tos have been beyond helpful. Keep doing what you're doing, love your videos

TheGamingGeek
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Hahha. When I was maybe 20 or so I changed the valve springs and valve seals on my 305 SBC in my truck. I tried to do that adjustment but near all of them were loose and chattering when I started it up hahah. Sounded BAD. I a would up adjusting them when the engine was running fast, Oil allover the exhaust manifolds smoking. I guess I did something right over 10 years later it all still works. Thanks for making no BS videos.

GhettoWagon
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This brings back memories from decades ago, doing this adjustment on my flat front 68 Chevy van with a 283 in it. It was the epitome of the late 70's era; i.e. a transplanted 283 V8 w headers (motor was harvested from a totaled 67 Chevelle), Chevy insignia windows on the upper back side panels, two hand crank sun roofs, wood paneling and carpet in the interior and some cragar deep dish 15" rims on the rear and 14" American racing rims for the front.

GTX
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Quick, simple, and right to the point. Thank you

ledgercook
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lol first rule: get rid of your had me dying😂😂🤝

redhall
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Uncle Tony I took an engine fundamentals class in college knowing very little about how they operated. The class consisted of a handful of sb350's (and a Chrysler but whatever). Each group got an engine, tore it down, measured everything, put it all back together, and fired them up at the end of class. I was hoping to see in this video the same sort of method I learned and it was dead on! I sparked a fire inside from that class and especially the teacher, who also happens to be a Mopar guy out here on the west coast that has done some pretty spectacular restorations to factory condition and still owns a garage of AAR Roadrunners, Cudas, etc. His name is Earl Ortiz, look him up!

Jrez
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I love how you respond to technical questions. So many don’t even read comments on their videos. Good on you Tony! 👍

jeffgootjes
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Great work, Uncle Tom, Cousin Google’s algorithm has put the wind beneath your sail and now to ride it to the top. Liking everyone’s comments like you do, helps the algorithm see it as increased engagement too.

Loved hearing your philosophy around the channel and in another video making the engine look like “somewhere you want to spend your time”. These principles transcend.

kipbush
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This way works great with a mild flat tappet cam. Love that you don't use the "spin the pushrod" method - that method doesn't really work that good unless the engine has never been run - even then, why would anybody do that? It's no easier than setting lash to 0 and goig 1/4 - 1/2 turn, and the lash method you can use on an engine that's been run and might have lifters pumped up. Your method is the one I use for basically anything close to stock - it's SO fast and easy!

For a bigger flat tappet, you might want to use the 1 on TDC compression, then 90 degrees and move to 8, continue along the firing order. Need a damper marked on 90 degrees to do that imho, kinda hard to get an angle gauge to work, but it's possible too. It's a little more finicky when you get into big roller cams with very little base circle. For big rollers, I do intakes first, get 1 to where the exhaust just starts to OPEN, adjust intake - then repeat through the firing order - then I move back to 1, but I spin til the intake just starts to CLOSE ... Thats the best way I've found to make sure you're on the base circle.

notsure
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Uncle Tony...just discovered your channel and watch at least one vid a day. I have a little rod shop in Arizona and your common sense, no BS approach when giving the young guys advice is spot on.
Keep up the good work brother!

lukeparrott
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Uncle tony. The next best motoring show since top gear.

DavidHh
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I don't have ADD or anything like that, but I have difficulty focusing on people . Uncle Tony is one of the people I can understand well . Not sure if he's got a natural teacher vibe or I'm just gay for him … Maybe both hahaha . Seriously love ya, brother , no homo .

silnatic
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I do the rod twist method of setting these on hydraulic lifters. I also do them in 1/4 turn increments on the crank. Its a longer way for sure... Thanks for teaching me a new way!

dudebroski
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Use the Harley Davidson method, if it jams force it, if it breaks it needed replaced anyways.

dukecraig
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