Cinestill Monobath Developer - First Time Try!

SUPPORT MY CHANNEL ON PATREON

ORIGINAL PRINTS FOR SALE

THE SFLaB WEBSITE

FACEBOOK

INSTAGRAM

ABOUT THIS VIDEO

Thank you to Gary for sending me the CineStill Monobath and the Expired Film to enjoy!

I have never been interested in using this developer. I guess I like the process I am used to and it works for me, however, there is no harm in trying something new!
So I gave it a go following the instructions. Unfortunately I could not get a fully developed negative from the developer using the instructions. I am not sure if that is because I did not mix it correctly, I think I did!, or what but it wasn't to be, I even tried a few more developments using Ilford ortho film but still no joy! Apart from one which I cooked for 10 mins at 30°.

Maybe a ready mixed liquid monobath may prove better results.

I appreciate the gift from Gary and introducing me to this developer. I may buy a bottle for use with my experiments in the darkroom with film strips.

I know others have and got great results from this developer so I can't give a full review on a one off shot.
All always, try yourself and see.

EQUIPMENT USED

CAMERA - Mamiya RZ67
FILM - Ilford FP4 (EXP 2014)
DEVELOPER - Cinestill Monobath
STOP & FIX - Fotospeed
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER -
DEVELOPER -
STOP & FIX - FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM

ABOUT MY VIDEOS

If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.

MUSIC CREDITING
YouTube Studio Music

[SilntObsvr]

More agitation gives LESS development, because it speeds up the fixing, which is going on at the same time as development. Generally, you'll get the best results with higher temperature (which accelerates development) and less agitation (which slows fixing) -- look at the instructions for the Push +1/2 or Push +1, which will have you increasing temperature or reducing agitation from "normal". Do remember the concern about bromide drag, especially after you've processed a few rolls in the batch of monobath; also don't forget to add that fifteen seconds for each additional film after the first (just as you would if you were reusing D-76/ID-11 or Xtol stock solution without replenishment -- in this case, it's the fixer slowing down as well as the developer).

Also, note their "native speed" caveat. The native speed of six years expired FP4+ is probably (a little) less than 125, and your Rodinal development (to higher contrast) will compensate for that better than a "native speed" process. Finally, the pH of your water makes a difference. If your local water supply is soft, it'll be less alkaline, while if it's hard, it'll be more so -- and more alkaline water will give faster development with no change in fixing rate.

The thing to remember with monobath is, it's a race between the developer (trying to bring up the latent image) and the fixer (trying to remove all the undeveloped silver halide). You usually lose a little true film speed (less than a stop, though), because the shadows are the last to fully develop, and the fixer steals the halide from those regions before the developer can turn it into image silver.

[rdmckeever]

Another fun video! I've used the Df96 liquid for nearly two years with good results on FP-4, HP-5, and Ortho. Doing a pre-rinse & push 1 stop with temp (85°F (30°C) for at least 4 min • Intermittent agitation). Adding 30 second for each additional roll, not 15. Distilled water for everything. Inversions on the first minute, then crank handle for the remaining agitations. Only one roll failed to be well developed (my error loading the reel). The rest have been sharp and printable. 12 rolls per bottle or or a few more depending on how many are 120. Good for everyday shooting, --Doug

[deanc]

Thanks for sharing your results Roger. It does seem like a compromise compared to standard developer and fixer processing. I won't be trying it, but I'm sure it has a place somewhere.

[LightsOnMultiMediaMindArts]

Just started developing my own film and I've only processed two rolls using Cinestill Dƒ96. In both instances the results were at least as good as negatives developed from a local photo lab. With Ilford Pan F Plus B&W especially I got good contrast and rich blacks. Fujifilm ACROS II 100 B&W shows a good range of gray mid-tones. I’m not sure why yours didn't turn out. All I did was follow the instructions. Fresh film. Nothing tricky.

[kontraen]

I use DF96 as my goto developer and mostly at 27° Celsius for 3+ minutes with constant agitation. I really like the results and and how easy it is :) Once you get your head around the concept of pushing/pulling via increasing/decreasing the temperature for 6° Celsius per stop, this is very easy too. Oh and I should mention that I'm always using the liquid version.

[fredintheshead]

I've been using it for a while, I use the pre mixed at 24° with minimal agitation. I find that's better than the lower temperature

[stantheman]

DF96 is perfect for someone like me. I decided I wanted a couple plastic "toy" cameras to play with and realized how much trouble and cost having numerous rolls developed would me. I bought a dark bag, tank, and this solution. I've been using Ilford HP5+ and I'm pleased with the results. I did find out the hard way that Fomapan film does NOT like this stuff though. I used one roll and it came out underdeveloped. Turns out others had same issue and I didn't know beforehand. Lesson learned.

[jimgraves]

Cheers for the mention, Roger. DF96 can be tricky, but once you find your sweet spot it's great. It likes higher temperatures and quick development times rather than cold n slow.

[The_Kaleu]

I got the cinestill starter kit that came with a developing tank and two rolls of the cinestill BwXx since I had been wanting to develop at home for a while. I absolutely butchered my first roll of film by misreading the instructions and developed it for three times what it recommended with the wrong amount of agitation and it turned out surprisingly alright. It seems to be fairly foolproof in regard to not following the instructions perfectly. I've developed Cinestill BWxX, HP5, Delta 100, and Arista EDU 400 with df96, and every time the negatives have been somewhat dense, although I'm not very experienced so maybe they are a bit thin and I just don't know it. I've been "scanning" my negatives by taping them to a lamp and taking macro shots (I did mostly macro way before starting film so it's not too difficult for me to freehand shoot the negatives). I'll upgrade to a three bath once I'm done with the developer, but I'm really glad they make this stuff, otherwise I wouldn't have made the jump to home developing. I love being able to shoot, develop, and scan pictures all in the same day without needing to send them out. My only complaint is that my latest roll had a fair deal of black specks on it which from what I can tell isn't dust since my other rolls are fairly dust free. I am wondering what could cause such a thing, but I suspect it might be the shed silver from other rolls of film or something like that. Am I supposed to filter my developer?

[jacopotassinari]

I used Ars-Imago mono-bath and well, it worked! There is for sure a reason for monobath solution, for instance you are a film-photo-reporter and got a shot of an event before newspapers go to press, well, you save time (not really much anyway) and send/sell your photos in time!
IMHO, if you are trying to go fine-art photo prints, you use all the time you could to perform it at your best. You try different prospectives, different lights, color filters... This mean you are not looking for a short-path, you climb your way the hardest way. It's a time consuming process.

[epstar]

I tried it a couple years back (the liquid version) and had almost the exact same experience as you found. These days I stick to Ilfotec HC and DD-X.

[CorySchadt]

I have had pretty good luck with the mono-bath. I have only used the constant agitation method.

[PB]

I have used this quite a bit as a quick uncomplicated way to check out whether the cameras I buy are working ok.I find it works well with acros 100 but with tmax400 it is so grainy. The thing that I don’t understand is the necessity to remove the film after the three or siX minutes. In the instructions it says feel free to leave it in longer to clear the film of its purple tinge or to fix it more. The developer automatically cuts out at a certain point and then the fix takes over like in a Polaroid shot. I have had no problems ignoring the add 15 seconds per film and have regularly left film in for 8 minutes and all seems ok.

[iainmc]

I use Cinestill 2 bath for C41 (Colour) negs and found it fairly reliable (any problems have been traceable to user error). Previous to this I used Bellini foto (C41) with variable results every time. Sticking to ID-11 for B&W and trying to iron out user error.
Not really tempted by monobaths, always felt that alkali's and acids in the same bottle would logically have a neutralising effect. I'm presuming your 'hard' water is going to speed development, maybe the acid element of the one bath couldn't hold it in place on the emulsion, leaving a thin neg. I'd plump for increasing agitation first, which in theory should make the neg more contrasty, failing that longer in the soup, failing that a warm prewash of the film - I do this as standard - failing that distilled water. Unfortunately we both know that any part of this chemical equation may have multiple variables. Darn science, its supposed to help us !!!

[analogrush]

I’ve only used the liquid developer. I got good results but I don’t use it anymore. I get better results with HC-110

[jasturbo]

I tried a different brand of monobath once and got the same results as you. I didn't care for it and haven't used it since.

[KeithTomlinsonPhoto]

I've used the liquid constantly and never had any problems. Tried with several film stocks and they've all developed well with Df96.

[robertwebb]

I just got a bottle of the Monobath, It looks ok so far.

[mgman]

I like to only spend 3 minutes developing film and I'm on my 3rd bottle of cinestill and use for 3 minutes at 80 degrees F and it works as good as my negatives I developed 50 years ago with D76

[Murgoh]

I just started developing my own film a month ago and this product was one of the reasons I decided to try it as it's so easy to use. I have so far developed 2 rolls of Kentmere Pan 400 in 35 mm and 2 rolls of HP5 Plus 400 in 120 and I think the negatives are just fine as long as the exposure is ok (I've had some underexposed frames in 120 though as I'm still learning to use a camera with no built-in light meter). Maybe I'll try the traditional 3 chemical method at some time too but so far I'm quite happy with the monobath.

I've also got myself a Durst M600 enlarger, Ilford Multigrade filter set, paper and chemicals (I believe the same stop bath and fixer can be used for film too, so i'll only need to get some film developer if and when I decide to try the 3 bath method?) and set up a darkroom in the cellar. Tomorrow I'm intending to try to make my very first prints (so far I have just scanned my negatives) so quite excited.