Fastest Finish - End Grain Cutting Board

You completed a great end grain cutting board design and now you need to apply a food safe finish on your end grain cutting board? In this video, Andrew shows you his #1,fastest food safe finish that will make your new end grain cutting board shine or revive old end grain cutting boards.
Follow along to the next video to see an experiment on staining a cutting board. See Andrew's complete cutting board series at the An American Artisan YouTube channel

Check out these links for more on end grain cutting boards:

Products used:

Zinsser seal coat, Bullseye shellac, Titebond 3, Titebond III, General Finishes Butcher Block Oil, Mineral Oil, Beeswax, Carnauba Wax,

product links:
carnuba wax:

beeswax:

mineral oil:

shellac sealer:

[drdantempo]

I had seen the sanding sealer tip a while back but paid little attention to the product used to seal it as I wasn't doing end grain cutting boards at the time. I stumbled across your video at the perfect time. My next project is an end grain board that was requested by my cousin. I'm picking up a can today.

[ShibaMomma]

I'm addicted to cutting boards!
I love watching you and the wonderful work that you do!
Thanks for scratchin my itch today!
~Alaine

[edvickery]

Immerse in the mineral oil and let the end grain soak it up. Then a heated mixture of bees wax and mineral oil to seal the surfaces.

[MrJlee]

Thanks for all g your wonderful tips and tricks. I made my wife an end-grain cutting board with partial checkerboard patterns, from scraps of wood, mahogany and maple. I went a little overboard with the sanding all the way down to 700 grit, and now my wife refuses to use it and has it in a display case instead.

[harrybates]

Will using the seal coat stop the mineral oil from penetrating the board, thus allowing the board to dry out over time and split or crack? I’ve only used mineral oil and natural waxes on my boards. End grain drinks a lot of oil, it takes re-conditioning often to keep it looking good. Most importantly to me and for my customers I want my boards to last as long as possible. Thanks for sharing.

[Gnarpium]

Thank you so much for your educational videos! You mentioned that you let the oil soak into your cutting boards and do a total of three coats. How long do you allow each application of oil to dry before you apply another coat? Also how long do you allow the final application of oil to dry before you apply your oil/wax mixture? Again thanks for your great videos.

[tomlagatol]

Good Vid! Always enjoy your channel. Thanks

[joshivy]

Thanks for the video!

You mentioned you don’t want to get shellac on the long grain because it will build a film. But what about the face grain? (In the case that one is finishing a face grain charcuterie board).

[webcrawler]

I thought you wanted the oil to soak deep in so it waterproofs the board and you can wash it under water?

[samb]

Very interesting and informative video thank you. You say you like SealCoat because it is wax free. What is the importance of being wax please? I can't get SealCoat and am having problems getting an equivalent wax free product. Even the Zinsser Bulls Eye clear Shellac has wax in it. Thanks.

[Giiiiiiiooooooooo]

Im a bit confused (beginner) is linseed oil the same as the mineral oil bottle you have? Or is it simply a different type of mineral oil? I just finished my first cutting board and want to make sure I finish it with the right stuff. Also, I used red oak, later on red comments that cutting boards shouldnt be made out of red oak, can you clarify this for me?

[unclebob]

Have you tried tung oil after the shellac seal coat?