Making a 1940's Evening Gown // Pattern Drafting & Sewing

A sewing diary for one of my recent projects featured as the final gown in the film noir look book. Today I show how I drafted the off-white crepe gown's exaggerated bodice (worn over shoulder pads in the look book for full 40's oomph) and sewed up this dress made from a rather unfamiliar textile in my workroom.

Remember...the wider the shoulder looks, the smaller the waist appears ha!

Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.

More from me?

But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!

First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!

Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163

Thank you for watching!

[evilgeniusy]

Things I learned from this channel:
1. My body is never wrong. If the clothes fit wrong, then it's the fit that's wrong. (And fit can be changed.)
2. When it comes to vintage, hair and make-up are pretty essential.
3. Matching accessories are awesome and fun.
4. Color is good.
5. Positive attitude, defined goals, and hard work will bring your dreams into reach.
6. Beauty is not vanity. It wakes up the soul and makes the heart sing.

[nataliestanski]

This off white gown looks fabulous on you, the shaping details are really interesting. I'm currently sewing poly crepe wide leg pants for my mom, I inherited my late grandmother's fabric stash which includes nylon, polyester, and a beautiful wool suiting. I'm too poor to be a fabric snob, I just made your puffy sleeve peasant blouse out of a white cotton bed sheet, lol. It looks great with my red bed sheet flounced petticoat, very pirate wench. 😁

[jonespaperemporium]

Poly and Ester are the sisters I try to not invite to my house very often. However, when they come over, I try to frou-frou them up a lot so they at least look good.

[HUDSONVINTAGE]

I want to see a rayon crepe in that lavender grey that they only made in the 1940's

[nataloves]

Unpopular opinion, I love synthetic fibers! They allow me to make the garments in all kinds of textures colors and patterns, and I can just chuck them in the wash. I've had many pieces for ages and my favorite piece is a poly dress from the seventies with permanent pleats! I'm also under no illusion that natural textiles in my shop are ethically or sustainably made. I hope my poly garments are thrifted fifty years from now and can continue to be worn proudly.

[annlidslot]

Hi, First of all, thank you for the content. So lovely as to spend 40 minutes with you.
A couple of thoughts to completely ignore. You might know this by now, there's no judgment included in my comments. Ever. My first, Polyester; as my stash is still very small I can afford to decide not to buy polyester and go all natural and preferably organic or vintage. If I had polyester in there, already bought, I would use it as one of the "I did the best with what I knew at the time. When I know more I do better". The dress looks so good on you, so wear it around the house doing dishes and some vacuuming or clean out the litter boxes, or something. It is 2020 after all, and you and everyone else deserve some glam in their life just about now. And as you said, it's just polyester.
So my next thought, time management; by the laws of my country the longest hours you can legally work is 43 hours a week, or 2000 something hours per year (it's getting late and I don't feel up to look it up properly, sorry). We are also required to use four of our five weeks of vacation. The last week you can push forward and use in any of the next five years. that means that you can use your five weeks and ad your collected five weeks, and use them together for a ten weeks vacation week vacation. Many young people do this and go traveling. Anyway, these laws are based on studies done on performance over time, and this was the most optimal time to be useful at work. So we don't only have these rights but also the obligation to stick to these rules. The whole thing started in the 60's I think, but all in all they still work. Of course people starting up a new business don't go by these rules all the time but most realise that the rules actually work quite well to prevent burnouts. So what is this story doing here? Well, how many hours would you put in if you worked for someone else? Maybe that used as a guideline? Plus maybe some hours extra per week, as you are working for yourself building a business.
Thirdly, I like this less formal commentary in your content. It feels very real, and shows a side of you we don't get to see a lot. I enjoyed it. But then again I followed you happily not learning things, and spending time just because. Take care of yourself. Yours, Ann

[missnikin]

hhhh yes the white dress tutorial!! I don't know where I would wear such a thing, but I need to make this asap. I've learned so much about fabric selection and content from listening to your musings, so these long chatty making videos are wonderful.

[StephanieCanada]

Wearing dinosaurs, best colloquial description of polyester I have ever heard. I personally hate polyester and I wish that we could find a better sustainable fabric that decomposes, but cotton uses a huge amount of water, so who knows. I love how this came out and I also love that I am not the only one that refers to herself by only last name.

[samwhyatt]

If all you can get is poly, then get poly. If you're making it into something you're going to wear, it's not a waste 😊
As for 'opportunity for getting glammed up', dear Lady, getting out of bed is all tbe opportunity you need 😅😅

[clairebonnstetter]

YES!!! Please someone make solid 4o's style rayon crepe and cottons!! I find these days good, vintage quality cotton is almost impossible to find as well.

[Leg]

This is the second time I've watched this. I think you were genius with the skirt. Gathers would have been bulky but this dress looks beautiful on you. You are way too critical on YOU. And you don't have to apologize for your work. We do what we do, been sewing for over 50 years. Lots of criticism and compliments. I've learned to take both with a grain of salt. However, you are fantastic. XOXO

[missimagoodlady]

I actually came across your handle in my search to learn about natural fabrics and sewing with them :) I guess it’s a harder journey than I thought. No judgement. We all live in a world full of plastics, and must all balance human needs and wants with what the world can allow us.

[shirleydrake]

After Covid, you should take a. cruise with a friend. You would then Have somewhere to wear your beautiful gown. If you don’t have a close friend, put together a Fans of The Closet Historian cruise. If you get together a group, you can end up with one or two free cruises for yourself. You could bring your mom along, and do a couple classes to teach pattern drafting for your basic pattern and how to make a few of the changes you do so easily. You could even really hype it by having a monthly sew along for a few months before departure. On the cruise everyone. Could model their creations. What fun! I watched a episode of Evelyn Wood where they had a fashion show for a mature, vintage designers. Each designers had three outfits. I think daywear, resort wear and possibly evening wear. It was neat to watch.

[averyt]

The drape of this fabric is incredible! On the poly debate note, I try to avoid polyester if at all possible, but I will use it if my budget requires it. In general I try to find secondhand fabrics so I’m not contributing to production and feel slightly less bad if I have to use synthetics.

[nicoleandtime]

You've inspired me to start sewing my own wardrobe (my Nonna who was a lifelong seamstress passed in 2019 and teaching myself to sew also makes me feel closer to her). I am going slow and carefully and only buying natural fabrics. My main reasoning is that I am prone to overheating and want a wardrobe that will breathe.

[shirleydrake]

You should have a virtual New Years Eve party. We can get dressed up in our favorite pajamas, pull up whatever movie we want to watch, something historical, maybe 1940s or so. We can get ourself a bottle of wine, a mixed drink or even beer and enjoy each other’s company.

[amyjanefrater]

This dress is a long, cool drink of water. Big shoulders with a tiny waist is a swoon! The fabric is plenty glamorous with the 'fur' coat in the look book. Bravo

[HoneyBear]

Sooo synthetic fabrics, are a yes for me cause I’m a beginner and it’s what I can afford. As much as I would LOVE 🤤 to buy all the beautiful wools that I see people use in videos my bank account and my brain say no cause bill and food come first. That being said, I do try to use thrifted fabrics like sheets, table cloths things like that.

So while it’s a pain to sew with sometimes it’s all just learning and I say they are wearable mock-ups for when I can afford natural fibers and maybe not from large chain stores like joanns.

[colettebramwell-colyer]

Ooh I want to recreate something like this with some of the crepe back satin I have had in my stash for years. I am tired of wearing comfy clothes everyday and want something glam for the holidays... even if I am only staying home and likely not going anywhere this Christmas.

[historiansrevolt]

You could say you are giving yourself a break before continuing with the cicada dress. OR you are giving us something to look forward to in the dark days of January or February. :)