Hope Technology: How To Bleed Hope Brakes

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Could do with more light when pushing the pistons back as too dark to see what exactly you are doing, thanks

VPSC
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I did this method 3 times and still had bubbles trapped in the system - once I started to play with Syringe at the caliper I was able to get rid of all the air trapped within the caliper area. I recommend anyone watching this video to work with syringes instead of pumping the lever all the time to avoid wasting time and trying to figuring out why is the air trapped here and there and having to unscrew the caliper

Deplated
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I like how HOPE is like a normal motorcycle brakes where you don't need to vacuum anything to draw out the air, just pump it until it's cleared. much more liquid in the reserve tank. love it

randomlonglegcat
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Followed the video just now and successfully bled my Hope tech 3's. Thank you for the great insight! The only thing that surprised me was the rubber spacer built into the lever cap itself. Great bit of engineering, thank you.

damo.hutchinson
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With all that brilliant engineering and top notch machining would it be that bloody hard to put a bleed port on top of the reservoir? Seriously guys...

KapitanPisoar
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From 8:19 Keep the easy bleed tool attached while you push pistons back. Stops a lot of fluid overflowing everywhere.

tactical
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Just reading comments and, in my view, this process is more straightforward and reliable than that of Avid or Shimano. The reason the pistons are pushed out and back in is to dislodge air bubbles that may be trapped behind or around the piston. The reason for doing this is mostly due to the size of the components and the actual flow rate of the fluid while bleeding, i.e. the flow rate of the fluid, when the lever is pulled back, is nowhere near rapid enough to create vortices that will dislodge air bubbles.

It's still better than Shimano and Avid as they suggest tapping the parts in the hope of dislodging the air bubbles and reverse bleeding.


P.S. Cycle Tech UK is spot on with cleaning the pistons before pushing them back as this reduces the chance of damaging the delicate piston seals and thus the possibility of drawing air in and/or leaking fluid out!

tomstanley
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Thanks for the great video - I managed to bleed my brake based on your tutorial - great job!

stephenjeffreys
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Hope breaks are the best I ever had. Unfortunately I had to sell mine and now I don’t have hope breaks anymore. I never had to bleed my Hope brakes and they worked flawlessly for years

Laurinmtb
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why not leave the reservoir cup on top while you push the pistons in so any excess oil goes back into the cup rather than spill onto the levers and bars?

christopher.j.m
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Worked lile a charm and i never did bleeding on any break before. Im just kind of stucked with rear brake where i had to take the hose out as i had to rpute it through the frame, small portion of bubbles still come out. The break itself isnt spongy so I guess i just ride it a bit and then rebleed.

Slim
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Thanks Dan you legend.
Amazing tutorial for the superior bleeding method for a superior set of brakes. However nothing is perfect and there are a few improvements.

1. Remove the brake pads before starting to make life easy. This will also give you a chance to lube & realign the pistons.

2. Use a block of wood or something hard as a chock for the pistons once you start bleeding. This also ensures theres no air trapped behind the pistons as they are not extended out.

3. Money Saving tip (use at your own risk): Once you notice all the old fluid has bled out and only air and new fluid is in the pipe, pour the new fluid coming out back into the reservouir as you continue to take the air bubbles out.
Throw away old fluid though, thats not good for anything.

Happy shredding 🤙

hassanmarzook
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That super easy bleeding will highly probably lead me to new breaks from Hope. :)

Musicsson
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Surprising to see that the official process involves spilling so much brake fluid over the brake lever! And I will have to work out my own process for my O2/C2 brakes! 😀

ridefast
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Don't want to play the wise-ass here, but try connecting an electric pump to the caliper and go from bottom up - You gonna need max. 3 minutes per brake and will skip all of the loosening-pumping-tightening. Look for any battery powered mini pump for petrol on Your local market and set the voltage to the lowest possible value for a pump to still work. The rest is just a transparent hose and a towel. Or possibly more easily, connect a BIG hypodermic syringe filled with a brake fluid to the calliper. Because the bubbles like to go upwards.

davidmrihlad
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brilliant video and advice, but can i add that when you spill the brake fluid do not rub it! firstly use water to remove it then use brake cleaner and rub it...

pooselpoosel
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@hopetech : Stupid question perhaps, but don't don't bubbles naturally rise to the top ? So why don't you push in new oil from the bottom with a syringe and let the bubbles come out into the bleed tool on top of the reservoir ? I'm know how to bleeding Shimano brakes, but some blue Hope v4's are on the way for my Husqvarna 2021 MC8. Is it because of the thickness of the dot 5.1 fluid vs the mineral oil in Shimano brakes ? I would like to understand the reason for this. Thx.

dawn-moon
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For some reason i cant get it work on mine. Never had any issue with shimano or sram bleeds... just stumped on what the issue could be.

SnowShackboy
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I've recently bought a set of Trial Zones so this video will come in handy when I need to bleed them.

Team-Fraser
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First off great vid chaps! Got me out of a squeeze today in just over 20 mins! The easy bleed kit really is just that! Managed to rip the hose out of the calliper on a dumbass walking pace tumble today and this got me back out in less than half hour.

garpur