How to adjust pinion bearing preload

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Topic: This video discusses adjusting pinion-bearing preload on a vehicle.

Music introduction and closing: Ashokan Farewell: Written by Jay Unger,
Guitar by Ben Siemers

Considerations: In retrospect, I would have liked to redo the first part of this video and amend the use of the Impact wrench scene. Please note, although I demonstrated using an impact wrench to initially gently draw the nut up onto the yoke, before proceeding to tighten it, it is best to avoid it altogether, as you may risk chattering the bearing and causing defects if the impact is permitted to hammer. It is recommended that you use a ratchet, flex bar, and torque wrench to prevent risk to the bearing.

Please note: It is not uncommon, once the minimum pinion nut torque is established on the pinion nut, to require the use of a long flex handle and even additional leverage to adequately collapse the crush sleeve. This video is meant to show the basic concept. Once you have passed the pinion nut's minimum required tightening value, if your pinion's rotating friction still is not adequate, simply continue to torque the pinion nut in small increments as far as necessary to reach correct rotating friction or preload.

Good luck setting your pinion bearing preload.
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Nice video. I am an automotive instructor and found you to explain things very well!

ericbradford
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Thank you so much. I need to do the pinion bearings in my sterling 10.5. this cleared up the whole inch pound spec thing for me. My initial thought was holy crap inch pounds is barely tight! But now I understand that its a measurement of the force required AFTER torquing down the nut

stephenalbert
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Putting pinnion bearing and seals in a dana 35 glad i seen this video when i did thanks

jamesfox
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Ben you made this seem so simple, thanks so much

tedenderpalmer
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Best video I’ve seen on this!! Answered so many questions I’m going to be regearing my Jeep to 4.56 soon so this helps a lot thank you very much!

lowccperformance
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Great Video, would this also work on an existing setup that was leaking. I thought it required a Pinion seal however…. Turns out the nut was very loose and was leaking from the nut… can I reassemble using this method with a new seal? It’s a 1980 WS6 with disc brakes. In a 1970 RS Camaro… thx.

kevindrummond
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Excellent - and a life saver. Was scared of this, but you make things very clear. Wish I had that fancy dial wrench, but I’ll make due with a 1/4” beam wrench and a bunch of adapters =}

Thank you!!!

ronskopitz
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I enjoyed watching the video, it was very informative. I was wondering, if I have a loose pinion nut on my truck what is the correct way to tighten it?

HeavyChevy
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Great Video! I'll be replacing the pinion bearings on my 2001 ford 9.75 rear. Do you know a reliable source for torque specs?
Many Thanks!

Jbmongold
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Im trying to figure out where I went wrong I didnt lube the seal so perhaps that played some role. But if my pinion is only torqued to around 50Lbs it seems difficult to turn and the higher the torque load goes the more difficult and even impossible to turn the flange to the point it doesnt move at all. There is no up and down play even when the nut is only torqued to 20lbs. Do I need to punch the bearings down more to seat them or could it be a different issue.. ..

Michael-ocut
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So let me be sure I understand - this is something you can do to *correct* preload on a previously setup diff? Or if you need to replace the pinion seal? Can this be done with the ring gear and axles in place (I get that the wheels/drums/calipers shouldn't be installed while checking with the inch-pound torque wrench).

griffmillerii
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using the wrong torque gauge ?too strong for *that* need.
edit: after saying that, i have to say *GREAT VIDEO* and in the comments i see you have REALLY great knowledge of diffs...

josepeixoto
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I need to replace the seal. I dont' want to take it to a mechanic becuase what if the mechanic is new in his careeer and doesn't do the pinion nut correctly. I was wondering, If I mark the position of the nut before removing, then replace seal, and if I torque the nut to the same position will that be suitable to get it back to where it was before I replaced the seal? or is that an all out bad idea?

Jimo
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what do you do with out a crush sleve? are the shimms meant to bridge the gap from the front and rear bearings for preload? i cant for the life of me find a video showing preload with shims

beardedgaming
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And these numbers are with the carrier OUT of the housing correct?

powerking
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Just had my front diff rebuilt with 4.11 gears. On a 2006 Commander. Started noticing a clunk then a vibration at 50mph. I checked things out and found play. on the front pinion, would that need to be redone again?
Thanks

johnsluyter
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Here is the problem: asked gmc dealer to replace leaking pinion seal on the front differential of my 2011 4x4 5.3L 6 speed auto sierra. They recommended this repair one year ago, i just had it done november 11th 2021 with my yearly safety inspection. Ran two wheel drive sounded good. Set to " auto" on dashboard transfer case selector..sounded ok driving out of dealer. 9 days later selected " auto" again because of wet roads, fall leaves on road. Ran back roads to work, not interstate. Started hearing bearing noise, felt new vibration. Turned of auto reselected 2 wheel drive mode. Left work tried auto again..scraping bearing noise, then went into a sharp left bend in the road..the front end started grinding, talking, repititive clunk clunk clunk.
Looked under truck, drive shaft from transfer case bolts tight, feel no binding in front drive shaft.
Took it to dealer check oil..oil ok. Test drive the mechanic hears grinding..advises stay in 2wd mode. I now speculate here that the tech didnt properly set seal, bearing or properly set preload.
Can it be reset properly now?

pootthatbak
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Is the pinion supposed to have back and forth play?

narcisoveloz
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What size socket is that for a 02 Silverado

patsipps
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Where did you get that holding tool it's everything when doing that job

gsanders