Wool SUPER Numbers Explained - What Do Suit Fabric Super 100s, 180s... Mean?

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Gentleman's Gazette
#wool #worstedwool #notsponsored

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Generally speaking, worsted wool is the most popular fabric for men's suits around the world and while there are technically many fabrics that fall into the definition of worsted, there are subtle differences in classification among them.

One of these determining factors is the wool's so-called super number. You may be familiar with seeing terms like super 120s or super 180s on online retail pages or in fabric swatch books but what exactly does the term super mean in relation to worsted wool?

Before we can answer that question, let's talk a bit more generally about what qualifies as worsted wool. The term worsted can alternately describe either a combed yarn, a fabric made from a combed yarn, or a weight of yarn. A combed yarn, by the way, is made when wool fibers are rotated by metal combs that align the long fibers while discarding these short staple fibers. The result is a long lasting fine and smooth yarn with a somewhat glossy finish. Also, by adjusting the pull of these combs on the wool, one can get lighter or heavier yarns whereas varying the twists will impact the look, feel, and strength of the yarn. Tight twisting provides a crisper feel whereas loose twisting makes for a softer but weaker yarn.

To answer another general question, is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight?

The answer not necessarily no. Similarly, you might be under the impression that a lighter weight weave is going to be cooler to wear and a heavier weight would be warmer but this isn't always the case either. Something that's heavy but relatively open in its weave like a fresco fabric, for instance, is going to feel much cooler when worn than something that's tightly woven and lighter like a super 150s fabric, for instance.

It's important to keep in mind then that a lighter fabric with a higher super number is not a hallmark of better fabric, it just indicates that the fibers used were thinner in diameter. Similarly, the super number doesn't provide any information about the weave or how heavy the fabric is.

So with standardization systems in place, super still sits as the top designation for how fine a wool may be. With that said, some companies have gotten a little subjective again in exactly how they're grading their super wools. So for example, a super 200s wool from one manufacturer might be a bit different in how fine it is from a super 200s wool from another manufacturer. Things are generally going to be fairly consistent, overall.

So a higher super number will mean that a fabric is going to be softer to the touch and generally will feel more like luxurious. Conversely, a lower super number will mean that the cloth is more sturdy and probably warmer.

Now you may be wondering, how do these super numbers translate into considerations for wearing?

Stated simply, anything with a higher super number is going to be more temperamental and hard to care for over time. The thinner, finer fibers of a wool with a high super number may have an amazing hand which is to say how soft they feel to the touch but they're also going to break down much more quickly than a heftier fiber would.

Speaking generally then, it's our opinion that it's best not to get overly caught up in the super numbers of your worsted wool suits. Very good quality suits can be created from wool in the super 100s to super 150s range and even below that, and of course, a suit that is well fitted to the wearer's body is going to look great regardless of what the super number might be or even if it doesn't have one. Conversely, something in a super 180s or super 220s wool is still going to look sloppy if it doesn't fit your frame well.

[kvt]

Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!

[tonydeltablues]

You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!

[suem]

Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense?

Otherwise great job.

[Padoinky]

These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.

[asumani]

I love the way this gentleman has presented this session, magnificent

[ReticentSparrow]

I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me.

It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.

[countalma]

I am planning on commissioning a MTM suit and this was very helpful. Thank you!

[chadnoswal]

Absolutely great and very informative video! I just found your channel and I am a subscribed fan! Can’t wait to watch all of your content!

[GetApprovedNow]

Very Informative. The Gentleman giving the explanation kept me engaged throughout the video.

[tvfrance]

Thanks, very informative. Really like the history aspect of the lesson.

[solecellarz]

Excellent, excellent video. Perfect explanations.

[lloydaurion-gaming]

After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.

[r.mercado]

Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi

[ravan]

Will you ever make a video to compare english and italien suits? That would be great!

[Antonio_took_a_hike]

This guy knows his stuff. Thanks for the information.

[eldavis]

I've been waiting for this video my whole life lol

[MyFlatface]

Would you consider making a video about espadrilles,
would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks! 
Once again great vid!

[ardentdfender]

Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.

[rsevp]

Have a couple of Tasmanian super 150s from Hickey Freeman. Really like them

[alexfrias]

Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!