LM2596 2v-37V 3A Voltage Step Down converter Module Tested/Reviewed

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In This video you will see LM2596 Module labelled as 3A is tested with
different voltage input and output.

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Jump to different section of this video by clicking on the time
00:00 Start
01:42 Voltage adjustment test at
05:33 Data sheet viewed
08:00 Tested with 12V input 9V output with at 3A
09:00 Tested with 12V input 9V output with at 2A
10:15 Tested with 12V input 5V output with at 3A
11:10 Tested with 12V input 5V output with at 2.5A
12:26 Tested with 12V input 3.3V output with at 3A
13:30Tested with 12V input 3.3V output with at 2A

Tutorial by Ahmad Shamshiri form Canada
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This is my goto material on the use of this module, your thorough testing in different ranges makes this video reference gold. I've come back to watch it again each time I use one of these just to be sure of it's performance in my targetted load case, brilliant sir.

mchanist
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All your videos are so helpful, Thanks a lot. I bought 3 of these today. Worked them up to 0.6 amps only, got barely warm.

prashanthb
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Thanks indeed for doing all these tests and all the others that you have done also. They are really great work and help us hobbyists immensely!

englishrupe
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Hook one of these things up to a scope under load. I've been messing with one trying to adapt it into a bench power supply, and the ripple is just unreal above 100mA or so. Across a 15 ohm load at about 15v (1A), and I was seeing around 300mV p-p ripple. With some filtering I can get it down to about 150mV. This is with a different module that has a real heatsink on the LM2596. I tested it at 2A (30V/15 ohm) and the ripple stayed about the same, but the inductor on the board would start squealing within certain voltage ranges (27-29v). Then would quiet down right at 30V.

But it uses the same 4.7uH inductor that yours does. As another person commented, it just needs more inductance for a full 3A.

bartgt
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Thanks! I was testing one for 1st time and it was getting warm (though not hot) powering an esp32 at 5v from 12v. I didn't realise it had an LED until I saw your video, why? Because the Led on mine was mis-soldered from the top pad to the positive side of the capacitor! Testing one without a badly soldered LED and it is much cooler. Worth checking the soldering on these modules.

FluffieWolf
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I ordered a bunch of these, when they first came out I paid less than $1.00 USD each, but I purchased a bunch of them. I never used them because bigger and better ones came out. These work best if your input is very close to your output. Hooked up to the car battery 13.8v and I need 12v @ 1.5amp I stand a good chance, even 2.0amp maybe with a small heatsink from a Raspberry PI

MrBrymstond
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The LM2596 device IS capable of 3A. This module is sold on the 3A thing, but it is not able to sustain that as you have found out. Not without some changes to the design. However having said that, they are a great little module, and if you are not planning to load it up to 100%, they work very well. The price of these things is so cheap, something has to give, and it is the lack of proper heatsinking for higher output currents. ;) I would not want to push them past 2A - ever. Not unless you WANT a nuclear meltdown. :D Nice video. :)

VauxhallViva
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thankyou so much. I was totally in the dark about what this thing was and why i needed it for my micro motor for my Zguage railway system. you explanation is all i needed. its all working fine now Thanks a lot

alinboon
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I cannot thank you enough for making such an informative video on ymthis module

AbhishekKumar
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Thanks for the test. I got a lot of these converters.

There is a large ripple at the output. You can manage it with a filter.

Die-Spezialisten
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thanks for the advice about continuing to wind the pot. i had assumed mine was bad.

youpattube
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Hi all, do not buy this modules from china. They cost around 1Eur because they use some Chinese clone of the LM2596 which runs on 55-75kHz. Original Ti LM2596 cost around 3Eur. You can check the frequency of the switching - original runs on 150kHz. I did test of Chinese clones at specific overload conditions (3A, more than 70 Cdeg) will increase output voltage around 1, 2V which can kill everything connected.

matkokubko
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At 3V, 3A out, from the efficiency of 73% (cf. datasheet) you know the dissipation must be 27% of 9W = 2, 43W. At 12V out, eff is better: 90%. I'd recommend cooling for everything above 1W. And please use a thermometer. They're not expensive and fingers are ... ridiculus ;)

Fahnder
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This video is very useful to me at the moment. Can't thank enough!

Prubotics
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One can likely solder on a spiral strip of a canned food can and get better results cheaply :)

ertyuiiknbvcx
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Great video. Thank you for the information that the output voltage just goes unregulated if the input voltage dropped below the desired output voltage.
I was looking for that information as my next project make use of that as an idea. :)
Thanks again.

JobinAugustine
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Also: look at the LM2596 datasheet for inductor dimensioning for loads. It seems the LM2596-ADJ requires a ~20uH inductor for 3A loads.

jhbonarius
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If you can't touch it for more than a few seconds then it's over 70 degrees C, i've read. I'm using these in a project and they seem fine but i never go over 700mA. Thanks again for your very useful reviews :)

GaryMcKinnonUFO
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Thank you so much. For a moment I thought I got a damaged device.

sataTemplar
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I have connected this device to 5v mobile charger as input...In the output, while measuring voltage, no matter how much I twist left or right the output always stays 4.4 v

AshiqurRahman