How To Mod A Razor Crazy Cart!

In this video I go over a few different setups you can run on a Razor Crazy Cart as well as some installation basics! Be a part of the drifting community by subscribing to my channel for more thrilling videos, exclusive content, and helpful tips. Don’t miss out on the excitement - hit that subscribe button and let’s drift together!

[hamptersgottaball]

What an amazing guy. Thanks for being so organized you even included a spreadsheet

[wyatdude]

bro got me into something i didn’t know existed, my area probably sucks for em but i have a few spots in mind thanks for this info my g

[trevorbarney]

As a former competitive downhill Longboarder, I recognized those Orangatang Durian wheels immediately!! I dont mean to be a huge snobby nerd in the comments but maybe someone will find some interest in additional information about longboard wheels. They can have a really significant change in the ride characteristics of these carts, as they did in my longboarding "career" (it was a hobby when i was 18-22 but i took it very seriously lol)
For context, lets remember some specs about the Durians here; they are 75mm tall with a Width of 52mm and contact patch of 45mm

3 Topics; Durometer, Bearing Seat Position, Lip Shape.

> Durometer: Longboard/ Streetboard wheels are made from Polyurethane. The unit for measuring the hardness of polyurethane is called Durometer. The yellow Orangatang Durians pictured here have a durometer of "86a" which is on the upper end of hardness for a longboard wheel. Street/ Park boards (the usual double kick boards) are very hard, usually floating around 101a or more. As he says at 5:04 & 11:00 the cart has no suspension AND its metal on metal. Which means you're going to feel every crack and rock that you roll over. When i was racing at events like Maryhill Festival of Speed, I would usually setup my boards to have a higher duro in the front and lower duro in the rear of the same wheel (Something like 82a / 76a [speed up front, grip in the back]). A Lower duro = softer wheel. Softer wheel = smoother ride as it can absorb more shock and roll over cracks alot easier. Harder wheels were usually the bane of me falling flat on my face while going up a curb or hitting a rock. With that being said, harder wheels will keep their speed in straights, but that's not applicable here as you have a dedicated motor and arent reliant on the same variables such as aerodynamics as in long board racing which is a Gravity sport. *So look into the Orange 80a Orangatang Durians as a side grade replacement for this cart. A nice balance between speed and absorption that'll run you about $65

> Bearing Seat Position: There are 3 positions for the "Hub" in which the bearing sits on; Centerset, Offset & Sideset. This is important due to wear patterns and grip characteristics. A Sideset wheel is going to be much more susceptible to "coning" vs a Centerset wheel as on a standard 10.5 inch wide longboard, the weight is focused more on the inside of the wheel. This is great for power sliding and "Free-Riding" (taking the concept of friction created by the spinning wheel and using that to stop by throwing the board sideways) but wears super quickly resulting in buying another set of wheel (usually $50 for a set). Sector 9 Butterballs and Abec 11 Flashbacks were notorious for this. Personally, i was a big fan of center set wheels as they lasted a long time. Whenever they would begin to "cone" too much on one side, just rotate them and wear the otherside. They were really great for technical downhill where i needed to have additional agility and control over the wheels to get around tight corners.
I was running Centeset Abec 11 Grippins (70mm - 81a) back then for technical downhill and Offset Venom Cannibals (76mm - 76a) for high speed downhill (50+mph) the Grippins would fit on those casters no problem. 52mm wide with a larger 50mm contact patch.

> Lip Shape: Probably not applicable to a Crazy Cart but worth mentioning anyways. The discussion between Round vs Square Lip shape was important to me as Racer because i was looking for a "square" lipped wheel. Reason being; when taking a corner, a square lip will fold under and dig into the pavement as opposed to a Round lip which has less resistance, resulting in sliding and potentially washing out/ crashing. You might not be able to find a Square Lipped, centerset wheel - at least not one that would fit these casters.. so the runner up to that is a Rounded lip with as little of a bevel as possible. That's why i recommend something like the Grippins.


As far as the Loaded bearings he talks about at 19:01 you can definitely keep them you dont need anything overkill like Bones Swiss Ceramics or any bullshit like that. I used to just run $10 Rush bearings and treat them like disposable batteries; when they rust or dry out, toss them out hah.

Edit: if you’re planning on riding on wet roads (keyword; planning), what we used to do was mill lines around our wheels with a dremmel or lathe for better traction just like a tire. Call them rain wheels.

TLDR: You could probably swap out those Yellow 86a Orangatang Durian Wheels with a softer variant like the Orange 80a offerings from them OR Abec 11's Grippins in 78a and get a smoother ride with better traction and more even wear pattern for a longer life span.

[juuantwothree]

So expensive! I did not expect this to be that much of a set up

[pbtrading]

I recently immigrated to a south Portuguese small town neighbourhood, where everyone knows each other, except me (I don’t even know the language yet).

Just moving here already shook up the neighbourhood, I feel like whipping one of those around the block without being able to explain it to the (mostly) senior citizens due to the language barrier would definitely be the cherry on top.

[Mr.Duckstheduck]

Keep it up! Such a good video, can’t wait to see your install videos!

[serenar]

the Duracell case is amazing I'm absolutely gonna do that

[hanamakoji]

"THE CRAZOR 2.0" LOOKS SAVAGE FUN!😄

[jamesdaballer]

The price on those castors nearly gave me a heart attack 🤯

[FloydBundrant]

Thanks for this video been looking for parts and this explains everything!

[WesV]

Well damn, i know what i want for Christmas 😂

[pilotharibo]

Do you have a link for the amazon tire? Its not in the video description

[SOCOM]

Pot holes and big O notches on the sidewalks must be brutal 😂

[derickdelonay]

Great video, just bought the stage 4.5 from taxi garage cant wait

[sovietboomer]

the link for the brushless motor kit doesn’t work

[miguelfigueroa]

Hey bro I don’t even know how to check messages so I might not see it but basically if I wanted to get into this I should by the cheap (500$) 24v starter one instead of the 1k xl one, and rather put extra 500$ I would’ve spent on the the xl into making the regular one way fast/quality of life. So give or take not including labor I would cost 1k more or less to have the setup you run. Also thank you for making this vid, albeit this is an “expensive hobby” it’s nothing in cost compared drifting real cars. I’d rather go all out spent 1k for me and my girl to get into this hobby and something fun for us to do together

[hamptersgottaball]

If you can, can you please upload a video of you setting the motor, esc and battery up?

[andrewl]

you got me looking into new hobby now :D

[Expovr]

So he basically bought a crazy cart and then built another one lmao all jokes aside this is
awesome good job 👏

[wyatt]

Super useful video! You should include timestamps in the future for those looking for specific mods ect.