Can the Malectrics Spot Welder Do A Copper Sandwich Weld - Pure Nickel, Pure Copper - Let's Find Out

This is a re-visit to the Malectrics Spot Welder, to answer a query from a commentor of the video posted. Have you tried a Copper Sandwich Weld? No I have not --- Until this video…

I truly hope that you enjoy this test, and if you have any questions of other things that you would like for me to try, please don’t hesitate to ask, and I will do my best to create a video just for you and your question. Thank you for stopping by, and God bless us everyone.

---Contents of this video--------------

00:00 - Introduction
01:30 - Go to the bench
03:00 - What is a Sandwich Weld?
03:27 - Proper Spot Weld Technique
03:42 - Malectrics Spot Welder at 40% Power
04:01 - Malectircs Spot Welder at 60% Power
04:32 - Malectircs Spot Welder at 75% Power
05:03 - Malectircs Spot Welder at 100% Power
05:43 - Spot Weld with Copper Only
06:40 - Let's try with a Nickel Plated Steel strip
07:21 - Spot Welding with 0.15 Pure Nickel Strip
09:41 - Overview of test
10:27 - Spot Welding with 0.235 Pure Nickel Strip
12:05 - Final Thoughts
14:45 - Outro

If you like this type of video, please let me know in the comments about a subject you would like to discuss and I will do my best to create a video on that subject, or if you have a video idea for a DIY project, A review of a product or anything else, I will be happy to create that content as well.

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Equipment used in the making of this video…

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* Malectrics Spot Welder V4:

* Feelworld Livepro L1:

* Livepro Firmware Update:

* XPOSE Software MAC:

* XPOSE Software Windows:

* XPOSE App for Android:

* XPOSE User Manual L1V1:

Recording/Sound Equipment:

Camera's I use in making videos:

1. Cannon Vixia HF R600 Camcorder: The following is a “Search” link for a Cannon Vixia HF R600 on eBay:

[aliancemd]

The material on top needs to be the least conductive option you have, like a thin(0.1mm) nickel-plated steel, because the resistance in the metal transforms that sudden rush of electrons into heat, heating up the metal on top and that one melting the metal below. You can even cut little squares(1 cell) to put on top of copper because the metal on top doesn’t contribute to conducting electricity(for this small load), it will take the path of least resistance and that is copper.
On a side note, you can check if it’s pure nickel by taking the volume(L x l x thickness/height) and weighting it - then you can take that to an online calculator to get the values of what a specific material should weigh at that volume.

[Nisse]

That spotwelder performance depends heavely on what battery you power it with. I use a 800cca carbattery combined with bigger welding leads, and that is so powerful that I need to go down to 7-10ms when welding 0, 15mm nickel strips. So I think my setup with the same spotwelder would have been able to weld that sandwich 👍💥

[ZebbMassiv]

Ah. Glad I went with the Glitter 801D . Was so close to pulling the trigger on this one.

[GabrielKozsar]

It could be that the current rushes through the strip at the shortest distance, instead of going through the cell tab. A strip with a gap might give better results. See what the power tool manufacturers use, most strip have the gap between the spot welds, they also use pretty thick tabs. In case of Bosch GBA pack ~0.34mm.

[Dani-jsge]

Just to confirm your theory: The malectrics is able to weld 0.1 mm copper with 0.1 mm nickel plated steel on top with ease. I'm able to do it with a pulse time of just 26 ms using a 740 CCA car battery as a power source. As far as I know copper is about 4 times more conductive than pure nickel thus it won't heat up enough with the current that these "hobby grade" spot welders are able to handle. The nickel strips provide the necessary heat during the welding process to make the copper stick to the battery. Greetings from Austria

[akinnon]

first spot weld a very thin strip of nickel, then sandwich a copper strip under another very thin nickel strip. Dont bother coppering the paralel connections, just do the series one.

[maritaquality]

When welding sheet metal it is common practice to put a strip of copper behind what you are welding as a heat sink to control the heat to prevent burning through. The metal been welded does not stick to the copper, an advantage in using it. Like wise in heavier stick welding, a strip of cooper behind the weld prevents it burning through without the copper sticking to the steel.

[markb]

Nickel is not nearly as conductive as other metals that are commonly used like copper, gold, silver, or aluminum, but, it’s for that reason that it remains a popular choice for DIY.

The nickel’s higher resistance is the reason it welds more easily, as with more resistance there is more heat being generated at the welding electrodes, allowing it to be welded with equipment that isn’t industrial-grade, and very expensive.

It takes thousands of amps to reliably weld copper strip directly to the cell, however by placing the nickel on top, the current must pass through the higher resistance nickel along with the copper, increasing the heat sufficiently that the copper can also be welded with the nickel.

[evansste]

Thanks for the helpful video.

I'm planning on spot welding two copper sheets together. Each one is 0.0028 inches thick. At first, I figured that the Malectrics should be able to do it, if I use a car battery that will supply up to 800 amps. However, after watching your video, I'm not so sure.

I was looking to buy a spot welder. I had narrowed my options to the Malectrics or a Kweld. I ordered the Kweld, partly, because they seem to be able to deliver it, more quickly. Also, they tout being able to handle up to 2000 amps.

In your video, you ask why copper is harder to spot weld, by itself. My understanding is because copper is, both, a great electrical conductor, as well as a good conductor of heat. This is a terrible combination, when it comes to electrical resistance welding. This is because the heat is generated by electrical resistance. So, because copper is a great conductor, it doesn't generate much heat, when conducting electricity. Also, because it's a good heat conductor, it acts better as a heat sink; meaning that the heat dissipates quickly -- preventing it from getting hot, easily. The only way to overcome these obstacles, is to dump a huge amount of electrical current into the welding circuit.

Nickel doesn't conduct electricity as well as copper. It has more electrical resistance, and heats up easier. The copper and nickel strips are in parallel. Because copper is a better conductor, more current will run through the copper, but will generate less heat. Even still, some current will run through the nickel, and generate more heat. It's this heat that makes the weld form easier.

When you remove the nickel, and the current goes through the copper, alone, less heat is generated, because copper is a better electrical conductor. This results in less of a weld, if any.

As someone else pointed out, it seems as if your power source is the greatest factor. If you were using a source that provides more current, then you'd probably get better results. That was my original thought. Having said that, you say that you're using a Zeee 9000mAh, 11.1v battery. Based on what I could find, it seems as if this can put out up to 900 amps; which is a lot. According to Malectrics specs, the spot welder can handle a maximum of 800 amps. So, it can't deliver more than 800 amps, anyway. Because of this, the limit seems to be the welder, not your battery.

This is all good for me to know, since my intent is to weld two copper sheets together. However, I'm still a bit puzzled that 800 amps wasn't enough current. The only other limiting factor, then, is the amount of time that the circuit is closed. You used a maximum time of 100 ms. Perhaps, if it were conducting for a longer period of time, it would melt. I have to believe that this is the case, since, I can't imagine shorting an 800 amp car battery, through a thin sheet of copper, and it not spark and melt. After all, jumper cables have to be big, for a reason. There's no way that a little, thin piece of copper could carry that much current, without melting.

Malectrics states that the maximum pulse time can be set as high as 500 ms, instead of the default 100 ms; which is what you seem to be using. However, they warn that this could cause problems, since, too much current, for too long, could damage the MOSFETs in the device. This is another reason why I chose to go with Kweld, instead of Malectrics.

Thanks, again, for the video. You've kept me from wasting time with the Malectrics. My copper is thinner, so, it may have worked. However, I, now, see just how much of a role time plays (not just current), and the limitations of the Malectrics.

[mrludicrous]

Nickel have higher resistance making enough heat to fuse the copper to I think

[aerolithiumbatteries]

Hey .. to properly do this test, you MUST have a separation between the electrode materials. I cut my strips lengthwise so the current goes down into the strips. please repeat test thanks

[mikeinglett]

Copper needs to be thinner. 0.1mm is the common thickness used for nickel&copper sandwich.

[ron.owensby]

Is that Setting (40, 60 75 etc milliSeconds or percentage? @ about 11:35 the reason it is "puffed" is because you are pulling the strip off. Tere would be some heat on the top of the battery but current is not going thru the battery.

[imperialsecuritybureau]

Useful video, thanks, I might have missed it but what’s your power source? As I understand it, the power source makes a big difference - perhaps enough to make this work. Is it a 12V battery, if so what CCA and Ah? I’m considering the k-weld but it’s hard to get and pretty costly, so if the Malectrics can do it that would be a plus!

[richardmahoney]

Hey Outside In - great vid - QUESTON : Thoughts on Maelectrics VS Kweld? thanks

[archietheproto]

The nickel heats up enough to melt both itself and the copper under it. The copper does not heat up enough by itself

[michaellinahan]

I have a previous version of this spot welder and, when everything is working well, it does a good job (mine is mainly used to make 4S2P replacement battery packs for cordless drills), however, 2 years on I am on my 2nd set of batteries. I have 2, 3S LiPo packs in parallel, a 5200mAh 100C and a 5000mAh 60C but the 2nd set have degraded to such an extent that one is puffed up significantly and their combined capacity even fully charged will only give 350amps. I am considering a super capacitor version which would be about the same price as 2 new Lipos. So I wondered what you use to power your system?

[paulbeddows]

Copper won't stick to ferrus metal

[sothatgames]

What about nickel plated copper, i don't know if its a thing but would that not work?