Aircooled VW Oil - Finally, the Answer!

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What oil should I run in my Aircooled VW?

Viscosity, the Gene Berg tests, Synthetic vs Conventional AND MORE!

To contact Hiltz Machine Works about your project....

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Here is my recommendation. All model Beetles will be more than happy with conventional 10w40, 15w40, and if you live in a warmer climate with mild winters, and hot summers 20w50. Changed every 5000 miles. You will never have any problems. That's it. Nothing more needed be said.

benniestander
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As a Midwesterner with hot summers and cold winters, this video is simultaneously very informative and clear as mud.

noahmhoskins
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California guy here! V-dubbin since 95.. in the 90's we ran 20w-50.. zero issues.. 30w - zero issues.. currently 15w-40 shell rottella (aka diesel oil) ..reason.. it will survive the harsher air cooled vw temperatures and it has zinc..

gaspuppygarage
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Hello folks! I'm from Brazil and own aircooled VWs for 20 years. I always used 20w50 regular (mineral) oils on my cars. Although I live in Southern Brazil, where in winters our temperatures come close to 0°C, and in summers raises to 35+°C, the 20w50 does a good job. One thing I learned through research and readings, is that the API SL grade is the limit in this kind of oil, concerning to the ideal balance of ZDDP additive in Ppm in a "newer" oil. So, even if there are mlmore modern options in SM/SN/SP grades, I stick with SL, cheap and widely available. Changes at every 6 months or 5, 000 kilometers. The results: my older engine (20+ years of age) never opened so far, and perfect running. One more thing: upgrade to a 26mm gear oil pump in every new engine I build. Cheers!

O_BRASA
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Penrite 10W 50. Wouldn't use anything else. I'm in New Zealand. Hot summers, freezing winters.
And this is VERY important: It has ZDDP (zinc) which most modern oils do not contain in significant amounts as it destroys catalytic converters. On the VW the ZDDP is essential to protect the valve train exactly as you describe above.

martinharris
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I use the tears of my haters as oil for my beetle... Works like a charm !

upcyclethepastutp
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There are no one that I would trust more than the man who says " I was wrong". That says a lot about how serious and knowlegable that man is. Thank you for an excellent write up regarding motor oils for the air cooled VW engines! :-)
rgs,
an average dude who drives a '77 VW Westfalia 2.0L (type 4 engine)

hanschristianhess
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My Dad purchased a 1964 VW Beetle in 1964 from the dealership. We were not sure what type of oil was used when the engine was manufactured. On the first oil change, the engine had so much sludge in it. It was also getting harder to turn over the engine. My Dad cleaned out the sludge and replaced the oil with Havoline Motor Oil 30w. It was a High Detergent motor oil as recommended by the VW Shop Manual he also purchased from the dealership. Published by Delius, Klasing & Co. Bielefeld and Berlin. This manual states for the engine oil to be (HD oil for spark ignition engines). The lubrication points. Engine, oil bath air cleaner, carburetor controls, door hinges and felt ring in the distributor. Specifications were above 86 F SAE 30 W, and from 32 F and up to 86F SAE 20 W /20. Below 32 F SAE 10 W and finally anything below - 13 F SAE 5 W. Now days Havoline that we use has Anti Wear Additives, Zinc rating of 906 PPM (Parts Per Million). Yes, we still have the 64 Beetle.

dogb
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Im in Long Beach California, so it doesn't get that cold.
I have always ran 20/50 valvoline R.
It has a high zinc content for solid lift cams.
Of, course the size of your oil pump and climate will dictate oil weight.
Just remember modern oils are designed for modern cars with a very low if any amount of Zinc.
What ever oil you use make sure it has a high zinc content designed for solid lifters/flat tappit cam.

smokepeddler
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Whenever asked, I recommend “use oil with high zinc content”. The rest is up to you.

VWJawbreaker
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Im in Toronto canada. I used castrol 20/50 for 20 years till it finally dropped a valve. The tear down revealed little to no wear.

wesleyfellows
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I live in UK so it's neither too hot or too cold and I've used Morris SAE 30w oil for nearly 25 years and it's always performed well..

jasonking
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Here in the uk, I use 20/50 oil, in a 1850cc engine I built, 3000 miles later after regular oil changes, still have excellent oil pressure and engine is fine.🇬🇧🇷🇺

tonygreen
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I use Driven motor oil. Either their HR1 or HR5. Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed to protect your camshaft. With high levels of ZDDP to protect your engine. Driven Hot Rod Oil also delivers storage protection additives to guard your engine from rust and corrosion. These additives also prevent dry starts. Developed specifically for older cars, no other oil provides this unique combination of lubricant chemistry.

brightenyourdaytoday
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The important thing is not "which oil ?" but "is there enough oil left ?"
The viscosity depends on the outside temperature only if it is extreme on one side or the other, it depends on the hot engine oil pressure, and the compression ratio.
this on an original T1 engine and in more or less good condition, with double oil regulation, original springs and pistons, and functional mobile air flaps.

hpdepasse
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For those who know, in California I use 20-50w. I’ve used it for 35 years. Valvoline. Premium gas.

micronautseven
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Valvoline Racing oil is a good option. You must use an oil with a high zinc content.

PG
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Seems like 20w-50 with high is the consensus. Valvoline vr1 and Amsoil z-rod both seem like high quality oils that meet these specs. Hopefully in the upcoming years I can join the classic bug group.

otterconnor
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After watching this I have tried synthetic in my baja with a 1968cc. Im using 5/30 Kirkland brand. My head temperatures go from 280 to 310. It's 100 plus here in the high desert. The really trippy part. My oil temp is 90 to 110.
Dog house with a remote filter and full flow so my capacity is 3.75 quarts. I do add some zinc additive.

So far I'm a fan.

OwhyeeVdub
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Redline 10-30 is all I’ve ever used In all weather conditions.

chrisburnsed