2nd floor laundry rooms MUST-HAVES…🧺

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🧺 More laundry room features and tips in my Checklist:

🔥A recessed dryer vent is popping up on all the builds now and I love it. Keeps your dryer vent from being crushed when you push the dryer up against the wall.

💧A floor drain might be a requirement in some areas but I’ve seen quite a few without. If the washing machine leaks, the water will catch inside the pan and into the drain!

🔨Water hammer arrestors are little gadgets attached to water valves to prevent the pipes from inside the walls bouncing around and causing noise. It’s typically caused when a valve is opened and the water comes rushing out all at once. A great add to a washing machine hook-up.

What did I miss, what would you add?

#BuilderBrigade #homebuildingtips #homebuilding #customHome #HomeBuildingChecklist #laundryroom #laundry #drain #dryervent
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I’m going to be the a hole plumber nit picker. Water hammer doesn’t happen from water spray out of the valves. It’s caused by water being shut off quickly. It’s basically the momentum of water moving through the pipes then hitting a wall. That force has to dissipate so it sends a shockwave back through the water. This is what causes water hammer. Water hammer doesn’t cause as many problems with pex as copper but it will slowly wear pipe down. Hammer arrestors are required by code on all self closing valves. This is why you see them on washers, ice makers, and dishwashers. When you turn a faucet off, it’s relatively gradual so it doesn’t create hammer. But when a solenoid valve does it then it’s much faster which is why they’re required. It’s basically an electrical valve switch that shuts the valve so it’s much more likely to cause hammer. If you’re concerned about it and you have an older box without them, they make arrestors that can go on between your hoses and the existing valves.

joshcowart
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I hate those pans. They break and leak. They prevent moving the appliance and looking around them too. Put a moisture sensor in there if it holds water. Solves a problem but... just get waterproof (sloped) vinyl flooring to start with and tap a drain with a trap below (second floor). Make the vinyl flooring go up the sides/walls with the corners sealed and line it like a shower. Also, add a small lip/ramp toward the door so if it floods, the drain hets time to try to catch up.

tuvoca
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For a second floor laundry room on a new build I would want extra joists sistered in the floor to reduce vibrations even further

jjlpinct
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A window for air and natural light to see stains and true colors. A full length mirror for alterations. A big farmhouse sink for soaking and delicates and shoes and plants. An arched sprayer to wash small children and pets also toys, small rugs or rinse down anything that gets vomited on or worse. 😅 Plenty of counter space and hanging space. I'd take a steamer over an ironing board any day. I really liked the idea of making it a wet room with a floor drain and adding a vent fan. 😊 And I'm with the crew that wants the dryer vent on an outside wall with a very short run. And whoever mentioned the magnetic clamp to the dryer I'm going to check that out!

reneewhittinghill
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as a long time mover, I have seen too many horror stories with people having second floor laundry rooms. it's not really that terrible, but the actual problem is human error. some homeowner or contractor is going to move the washer for some reason at some point and cross thread it when they hook it back up or forget to check for washers and then the whole room will flood which of course happens just as often on the first floor it's just worse when it happens on the second floor. 2nd floor laundry room is not idiot proof is what I'm saying

johnpickens
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I have a heat pump dryer so I don't need to vent anything. It's quiet, doesn't shrink clothes and it's hyper effecient so it costs nothing to run.
Any lint is captured in the front in a small filter which just pops out in 1 second. The liquid it captures goes straight down the drain. If you're not near a sink it can divert to a plastic tub which you can empty out.
Only buy a heat pump dryer - I will never ever go back to a regular one.

WaffleCake-qd
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Staggered framing, insulation, waterproof floor, ceiling vent, multiple electrical outlets

toddhoward
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I would add a humidistat air vent, and also make the drain pan for the dryer too. now the dryers take water for the remove wrinkle feature. Then I would also add a cubby area with a clothes hanging rod to hang clothes and have a built in drop down ironing board.

volksbugly
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Noise proofing and a built in laundry maid because regardless of location I hate doing laundry! But joking aside, stabilize the floor, use 5/8 fire code drywall, rockwool insulation and if you're really serious isolate the drywall from the studs with soundproofing clips to prevent vibration from transmitting thru the rest of the house. You will rarely have an add on that will make your customers happier. I have people still thanking me years later telling me the best money they ever spent was soundproofing laundry rooms, kids play rooms, basements and home theatre spaces. And the real beauty of it is that if it's new construction it doesn't add a huge amount to the budget or build out time.

michaelangelo
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Problems! 😂
1. Vent to closest outside wall. The hot air from the dryer will hit cold air from the roof and all that moist will condensate and run down the pipe back inside the walls/floor.
2. All the dust and lint is hard to clean out from an embedded duct in the wall.
3. A second floor wad
shing room is a bad idea due to vibration and noise, not to mention the humidity and mold risk in a non-bathtoom. In Europe we place the e
washing mashines in a bathroom or extra laundryroom where you actually have a drain, moisture proofing, concrete slab floor and ventilation where the extra ventilation that causes the room to become cold isn't a problem.

dagg
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From personal experience, dryers should always vent to the exterior wall of the room. I've NEVER had good experiences with the dryer venting UP and THROUGH the rooftop.

lostmagicofdisney
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I want the laundry room to be on the ground floor and the dryer vent to go immediately out a side wall.

A laundry chute from upstairs is nice too.

soangry
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I like how two of the items are just things required by code.

mp-xtrg
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Add a built in ironing board. Put cement board under tile floor. Add a drip dry rod over a countertop where you can fold clothes. Leave a space under the countertop to put laundry baskets. If it’s a 2 story house with the bedrooms upstairs out the laundry room upstairs. Install cabinets to store laundry soap, toilet paper, Kleenex and paper towels. Include a window for natural light and add sound insulation. As a builder for 40 years we do this in every house we build including my own.

sheneedsme
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Recessed folding table large enough to fold down for quick folding of warm dried clothes!!!👍👍👍 Just a dream of mine on any floor!!! Love all your excellent solutions also!!!👍👍👍

apetersen
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Add access panel to the drains

No need to break sheet rock to do repairs

RomanRevko-gxbg
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gas supply, 220 and 110 volt outlets, and lighting. I built my up stairs laundry room like a shower with green rock sheet rock and a shower pan level with the hallway and tile on the floor. that way if a water supply line would leak it would drain down the floor drain and not flood the house. I did not think of the inset for the dryer hose but it is up off the floor so I can put in a stackable washer dryer combination. good planning for you.

davidvogel
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Large tabletop and hanging closet. For folding and hanging. I want a laundry ROOM not a closet. 😮😊

Sweetpea-
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If that drain goes into the sanitary sewer line, it will have a trap to prevent sewer gasses from escaping into the room. However, if the drain pan doesn't see water often (like you would hope), the trap will dry out. You will need to pour water into the pan every few weeks to keep the trap full.

chadportenga
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An outside air supply for the dryer. This way you don't use up so many BTU's from your heating system.

dougw