TEMU Dirtbike gets a Turbo!

I bought a Turbo and the most expensive dirt bike from Temu Can we 3D print a turbo kit for the dirt bike? Today we find out!

PO BOX 2370
Sandpoint ID
83864

[aaron]

As a person who does cad everyday for my job I’ll never understand how both of you do it with just the trackpad. Great video

[EdwinOlding]

Ethan sacrificed his personal dirtbike for the very first Grind Hard build so it’s about time I repay the favor!

[Renzsu]

You guys should get into aluminium casting. You can do sand casting or lost wax, but 3d printed molds are perfect for that.

[Erniiee]

“I am literally being productive, while doing nothing”
The future is here

[Treesusb]

The two separate “host” videos between Ethen and Edwin is one of my fav parts of this channel. Clearly Ethen doesn’t care about the limelight. It’s about the build. So rad. One of the few channels that I watch all the way through

[troopa]

Edwin using fusion on his lap with a trackpad is wild

[reliant_turbo]

Nice! Couple of things from a guys who has been 3d printing things for a while and has been turbocharging things for a the fuel pressure needs to increase the same amount as the boost. if fuel pressure is 1psi with no boost, it needs to be 8 psi with 7psi of boost as if the fuel tank and the carb is in a pressurized environment. also, PETG with CF impregnation will handle heat better than PLA and will print well with the Bambu machines. also, increase the infill and wall thickness to keep the boost inside the chamber. also, the output fitting directly on the turbo should probably be metal. turbo outlets get hot. also, printing things that will handle pressure may need to be printed on an odd angle to increase the surface area of the layers. Pretty cool project though. I like it.

[isaacfortner]

FDM prints (like what you're doing), have an inherent ~8% porosity in them, so they can't work very well as pressure vessels on their own. If you seal them with resin, caulk, or some kind of gasket maker like you did, then they should work much better.

[garyvincent]

Ever think about sand casting using your printed piece as the Mold? Cast the sand form heat it till the plastic melts/ burns out pour in molten beer cans.

[ForOdin]

I can see why it’s smoking, it’s the turbo drain, it needs to go downhill to drain properly and yours goes uphill

[ryanwynott]

You know it's totally okay to just mount the carb on the inlet side of the turbo and suck the fuel through the compressor. Lots of cars came this way.

[AllisonStewart-fb]

Haha, this stuff got me grinning, too good to scroll past.

[KermitOfWar]

Edwin's fab work is improving. The man edits videos & he works on his own projects. Noiiiice. 👌

[soezere]

Well... The main problem is you are boosting the Carb's intake. That means, air is trying to push the benzin back to tank. There are 2 solutions. 1 is to place carb before the turbo, thus you will be sucking at the carbs output(like its designed to) /or/ you need a benzin pump to maintain the pressure to fight back the air pushing in. I would choose the first option. Put the carb before turbo, its simpler.

[x_phl]

That's pretty cool! PLA is sh*t for any sort of temperature. For smaller parts you can use PC (polycarbonate) which can hold up to around 150C or use PA12-CF (PA12 nylon + carbon fiber), which can hold temps up to around 200C, the only issue with nylons is that you need to religiously dry them before (and during) print. There's also PPS-CF, which can go to around 250C, but it costs an arm and a leg.

[joe]

“You see, it’s the easy parts that are easy. It’s the hard parts that are hard.”
-Marcus Aurelius…..probably

[ValentinaRybakova-konw]

This right here just hits different. Keep doing what you do.

[austinclark]

the snowman was hysterical. never stop being amazing yall. <3

[박창현-vp]

Hello, I am a Korean middle school student who became interested in mechanical engineering after watching your videos. I felt that you are really good at making machines and are really interested in machines. You are a really cool and smart person. Please make many interesting videos.

[satibel]

Tip: for 2d parts, you can make a 2 layer high version and make it in 5 minutes on the printer. (Or you could calibrate a 2d printer so it's dimensionally accurate)

Also you should invest in a resin printer if you want to do high temp stuff, you can get resins that do 230C or more for relatively cheap (~70 bucks a kilo, but given that parts are like 50g, that's like 3-5 bucks for a part.)
I'd recommend the anycubic m7 pro as far as printers are concerned, I'm using the M5 and the M7 is just an upgraded version (including heating the resin, which is super useful if it's cold in the shop.)