AXC Sim TrueBrake Logitech G920 Brake Pedal Mod Review

Installation and review of the AXC Sim TrueBrake mod for the Logitech G920 G29 G27 pedals.

𝐒𝐮𝐛 𝐭𝐨 𝐦𝐲 𝐧𝐞𝐰 𝐊𝐚𝐫𝐥 𝐆𝐨𝐬𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠'𝐬 𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐫𝐨 𝐆𝐚𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐧𝐞𝐥!

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𝐑𝐚𝐜𝐞 @ 𝐇𝐨𝐦𝐞 - 𝗟𝗼𝘄 𝗥𝗶𝗱𝗲𝗿, 𝗣𝗧 𝗔𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗮𝘁𝗼𝗿, 𝗠𝗲𝗰𝗮, 𝗬𝗮𝘄, 𝗣𝗶𝗺𝗮𝘅.

[KarlGosling]

EDIT! Sorry guys, using a bigger buffer gives a SMALLER dead zone and using a smaller buffer gives a LARGER dead zone.

[rauljimenez]

Cheap fix: Take your dishwashing sponge, clean and dry. Cut a pice the size of the full spring and put it on top of the hard black rubber, inside the spring. Works like a charm and you can still use 80% of your sponge to wash your dishes. Karl if you are reading this, it would be great if you made a video out of it. Great content!

PD: Remove the hard part of the sponge piece you cut out.

[Tacko]

Got mine this morning. Installing was a doddle, thanks Karl. Hint: swap the throttle spring for the tougher clutch spring while you’re at it anyway. Original brake spring goes to clutch. Done that, and I’m over the moon. I missed my Citroën brakes more than I knew. No trouble reaching 100% btw. Second to smallest bumper, ps4, wheelstand on woven wool carpet

[christopherpope]

I like the added sound effect of the formula 1 cars passing in the background. Nice video too.

[SaschTheDash]

I ordered the V2 with the Green Spring (23kg) It drastically improved My Trail Braking, absolute recommendation from me 👍

[chrisball]

Cant believe how much detail you do in your video and how professional they are, keep up the good work your my number 1 youtuber when I'm looking at sim racing purchases to check if I'm not wasting my money 👍

[DoItYourselfAndy]

Not sure if anyone’s mentioned yet, but you really need to remove the black screws as well. Work on the pedals as you’ve done here, and then drop them into the top housing and they all align with the base just fine. This lets you put the cables back in the tiny retaining grooves. Then screw the base plate back on. If you don’t do it this way, there is a high possibility that you can trap and damage the cables. I’d seen a few videos of people warning about this and still took mine apart like you have. I put it all carefully back together, thinking there was loads of clearance for the cables, only to find on closer inspection that they are only clear when they sit in the grooves on the top. I was lucky, I spotted that the base was sitting 1/2mm out when tightening the screws. It had still damaged the insulation. Others have cut right through them. I was annoyed as product design is my area of expertise and still didn’t spot the problem 😂

[dogeyes]

There’s a cable mod for the pedals which clears the curve and makes it 10bit instead of 8bit. I feel the cable and this mod would be a perfect combo. The cable is called leo bodnar cable for g25/g27/g29/g920

[alexw]

Just a few comments.

The smaller or shorter buffer gives a larger "deadzone", not smaller, as their is a larger gap between the buffer and the top of the pedal.
You may want to grease the components where they will slide against the plastic cylinder, the stock pedals I believe are greased inside the pedal "pistons" from factory.
I recommend reallocating the springs. Personally, I put the stock brake spring for the clutch pedal and the stock clutch spring in the accelerator, stiffens them up nicely. The accelerator does have a longer stock spring than the other two pedals but I've noticed no issues.
I use my TrueBrake in a Playseat Challenge and it only occasionally starts to lift very slightly under max braking. It's not an issue at all. I'm also a very light chap so this would probably be less of a concern for anyone of average weight or more.

[brndn]

Play seat challenge with this mod and can confirm a little bit of the middle of the seat raising up. But I wouldn’t revert back to the old rubber block. It also sucks I can’t see the amazing design of the brake mod. Very nice mod if anyone is planning on staying with the g920, I am moving to the csl dd with the v3 pedals. But I have enjoyed the g920. Thanks for the video

[zindc]

I would say the bigger buffer will be less dead zone. Less for the spring to travel

[richardspencer]

Noticed now the V2.2 Truebrake you can specify the firmness of the internal spring when you order it, 15kg

[El_Beardo]

Looks and sounds like this is just what I'm looking for! Definitely going to be picking one of these up in the next couple of weeks. Should be a nice addition, along with the magnetic shifter paddles.

[sermerlin]

It's not about travel... Brakes are never about travel but pounds of pressure. Our brains can't keep up with "how much we traveled" with our foot but our brains significantly keep up with how much force and pressure it took to slow down a certain rate. And as such you no longer start feeling the travel but just the pressure. The more you use your force the more you will slow down and thus brain will via muscle memory map it out and you will be able to gauge how much you will need to brake without thinking "did I travel 50 or 60% or did I overshoot to 90%?" but rather just "yeah this bitch requires massive amount of force, yep remember that one!".

[hughs]

It's easy to adjust if you feel it's too stiff. Just get a lower stiffness spring, then adjust the brake deadzone to 0% minimum and 70% maximum in the game settings, and the true brake mod will work like a charm.

[tarche]

Fitted this and a stiffer throttle spring today! My god the difference from stock is unreal. 3 seconds a lap off my PB in a slower car round the Nordschleife on the first attempt. Yours was one of the reviews I based the purchase off so thanks. Keep up the good work.

[pierremono]

So I've been using this for a few weeks. My impressions are actually quite negative compared to the stock spring and rubber setup. It does well to sense the pressure, no problem with that. The problem that I have is that there is quite a big difference between the linear spring and the exponential pressure. So it's really hard to get it exactly where you want around that mark (which is about 20/30% brake for me).

It's great for easing of the brakes into that trail braking range... but it's not great for knowing exactly how much you're braking. I definitely had a net loss in consistency and confidence in my braking. I think I'm going to order some GTeye springs instead. I need LINEAR brake pressure.

[markthibault]

Good review. After installing the TrueBrake in my Logitech G25 pedals, I'm very happy. It's a massive improvement over the standard pedal. I have my setup in a GT Omega Apex wheelbase and find it steady enough to apply enough pressure to use the pedal to it's maximum braking force without tipping my folding Ikea chair backwards. That said, you definitely want to ensure you've a good setup because the force is considerable to move the pedal to its 100% level.

[mra]

Just picked up my G29 for the PC. Love your videos great quality and normal guy doing good reviews!

[EricHansenGuitarist]

I was disappointed with the travel distance before the True Brake mod actually started to show any signal on my G920. I tried the largest buffer they offered with the kit but the travel distance of the dead zone was annoying and difficult to be accurate with. I want to feel the brake travel range engage from the moment I start to press on it or release it. I took it out and put the stock brake spring and rubber piece back in. However, when I did this I had a large dead zone that was not there before the mod. Turns out if you separate the two gears that turn the potentiometer it can get out of whack. There is spring tension on it and you have to move the gear connected to the potentiometer one tooth forward before securing the brake pedal gear back into the housing. After I did that the stock brake worked as it originally did and engaged as soon as there was pressure on it. With that said, I recommend not taking out the pin the connects to the bottom of the pedal as some other videos have suggested. That will keep your brake gears at the factory setup.