Are You Changing Oil Too Often? You'll Be Surprised By These Lab Results! BMW Oil Analysis PART 1

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Analysis of three used oil samples in my quest to find the perfect oil change interval.

NOTE:
A few things I forgot to mention in the video:
1. I've never needed to add oil between changes. This engine doesn't seem to burn or leak a significant amount of oil.
2. Regardless of how much you drive, the oil should be changed once per year to remove moisture and contaminates. OR SHOULD IT? Check out Part 2 for the test!
3. Every motor is a little different depending on its health and how it has been maintained. The results gathered in this video may not be repeatable in all BMW M52 engines.

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I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The creator of this content assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the creator of this content.
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Check out my other oil analysis videos:

EndlessMoneyPits
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Changing the oil is one of the most satisfying feelings

tennentslagerman
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I always do my oil changes at 5-7k miles and I’m glad to see I was right in my suspicions.

BabyBugBug
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Well, i am the sucker that owns a n52 and changed religiously at 3k mi intervals along with the Mann filter. The thing sits at 178k mi and still pulls like a freight train. Enjoyed your vid thoroughly.

anaestereo
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I recently had an oil analysis performed by LN Engineering and while the ppm of all elements examined were in the good range, they encouraged doing a “dual” sample test in the future (sending a bottle of the brand new, unused oil before it went in along with one when it came out 5, 000 miles later) in order to know the exact levels of all the original additives, etc. before and after. They said this gives an more accurate picture of what the engine is doing.

TastySurrealBowl
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I love that you redline it everyday. A man that enjoys his car.

jamespatton
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a rare video where I can enjoy the content without feeling too much dragged.

dhanarputra
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In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist).  
Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification.  
Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation.
Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is:

1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations

2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at ***HALF*** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves.

Constant oil changeout - ON TIME, .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle.  
For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in **long term** driving conditions to be long-term-reliable).
Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES.
Hope this helps. ;-)

richh
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I would say it depends very much on your environment. In a hot dusty desert area you want to change more often. Also the oil type is different between hot desert or cold arctic temperatures.

mweskamppp
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I do my oil changes at 4000-5000 Km (about half that recommended by the manufacturer) in my 1998 Honda Accord V6 and 2002 CR V. I use synthetic oil and Honda oil filters. Never had any engine issues. The CR V uses maybe 500 mL between oil changes. No rattles on start up cold or hot with either. I think I’ll continue if anything I could I decrease the frequency but won’t. It’s still cheap insurance.🎉

richardmorse
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Nice findings and good job preserving an e46 in great condition 👍️
Also 5w-30 seems to be good enough, I give synthetic 10w-40 to my e46 as it offeres better film strength and wear protection, as HTHS ~3.5 of 5w-30 is regarded to be on the edge (10W-40 HTHS ~4.4) and other benefits like higher oil pressure. The benefit of faster 'engine through oiling times' at engine start of 5w oil begins at -10°C and below to make a difference compared to 10w, if you live in an area where winters are cold. Funfact: There is a reputated german engine rebuild company who declines warranty, if 0w-20 is used in a rebuilt engine, although it is within BMW specifications.

butwheresthebeef
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Changing your oil every year or 15K km is a good practice for long lasting life both petrol (gas) especially for diesel with partial filter and definitely driving enough to warm up the engine oil to regenerate the DPF and burn the ash.

JRCarReviews
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I'm just impressed that an engine, driven hard for that many miles, can be in such good condition. Good job BMW!

danielleroberts
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The 10, 000 mile sample is interesting and I would guess that some of the lighter molecular weight fraction has been removed (leaks or combustion?). This would be one way to simultaneously get the flash point to drop and viscosity to increase. Running at very high temperatures may help to drive that fraction off too. My diesel uses full synthetic too and the recommended interval (7500 miles) felt too long as the oil was extreme thin and dirty. I was not able to measure surface tension (helps with lubricity) but I felt like the viscosity was just too low. Since then I have not let the interval go longer than 5000 miles. Before I retired from Chemical Engineering I worked for a company that made surfactants (dispersants) so I know a little bit about that chemistry. Basically, high temperature and oxygen will contribute to components breaking down in the oil. Thanks for sharing the results (had a couple of E39's BTW).

davidjb
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If oil has twice the dirt inside at 10k miles compared to 5k miles, it means that oil is doing its job just as good at 10k miles. But, since there's more dirt in it at 10k, it's more abrasive on engine components. Oil isn't going bad, it's just getting dirty. Means it's good oil.

blazbohinc
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I 'm doing 67 Nova 283 oil and filter change after 4 yrs of use in about week:) I drive it like 20-25 times a yr around my area for a few miles warming it up to take the wife to store and back and some local cruising. Had it for 26 yrs now, no issues. knock on wood :P

williamcrazylacyfurmage
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good info - I might try something like this on my new 3.5L ford ecoboost engine. The pickup is a daily driver, but the majority of milage comes from road trips and pulling a small camper.

I think the experiment would be even better if you pulled the samples from the same oil (not after changes). There are little vacuum pumps that can suck oil from the dipstick tube and deposit it directly in the oil sample cup. Pulling a sample from the same oil cycle at progressing mileages would eliminate some variables like differences from jug to jug of oil or filters.

georgewashington
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I always tell friends when the subject comes up. You need to find out if your vehicle has a timing belt or chain. If it’s a chain you should probably change your oil more frequently to save wear and tear on the chain (5000 mi). If you have timing belt, you can wait a little longer(7500 mi). Check oil and volume up as necessary. A timing belt needs to be changed every mi. Normally, a timing chain (non-interference engine) runs to failure. Clean oil helps it last longer.

Bobcat
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In a real E46, you will effectively change the oil every 3000 miles anyway, b/c you will leak out a quart ever 500, so you can treat it as a total loss oiling system. The real interval to worry about is the oil filter.

brentsnocomgaming
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You should have gotten the added TBN test. It will give you more of an idea on how much life the oil has left in it. That's the most important part of extended drain intervals.

catswildlife